Freelander Series 1 (2000) - Tailgate window won't close automatically

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MichaelLRFL

New Member
Posts
4
Location
Wales
Hi all

My friend has a Freelander 1, 2000. He had some issues with the cables at the tailgate and so replaced the regulator. Prior to this everything was working fine. But since fitting the replacement (which included all the cabling and the motor) the following is happening:

– The window goes down normally as it should when the door is opened. All good there.
– But it doesn’t go up when the door is closed. It stays as it is (partially opened).
– When operated by the dashboard switch, the window does go up and down but only in small increments, not in continuous movements.
– When using the dashboard switch, 4 beeps are sounded.
– The window closes fine when turning the key clockwise in the backdoor keyhole.
– The rear wiper is not working

Hopefully that’s enough pieces to put together for a diagnosis!

I should add that the replacement regulator is a third party one, SKU code CVH101150, and bought from jgs4x4.

Any help would be most appreciated, and if more things needed to be tested to help diagnose then please let me know and I will pass it on.

Many thanks :)
 
The first one normally does the trick. But if the battery is nearing the end of its life, then the second instruction is the one to follow. Failed calibration is normally down to incorrect cable or regulator adjustment.
 
Thanks Nodge68. Well, he tried both calibration methods and neither did the trick....

Failed calibration is normally down to incorrect cable...

Which cables are you referring to please? When he replaced the regulator, that came with a large loop of cables, so these are all new. Are there other cables to check?

or regulator adjustment.

Any further details of what can be adjusted would be helpful if you don't mind and have the time.


In other news, I've been making enquiries elsewhere and two other potential culprits have come up.
- One is the replacement regulator. It was a third party/non-genuine regulator made by AllMakes 4×4. Apparently these can cause issues and it is best to always use the genuine LR replacement. Does anyone think there's any mileage in that?
- The other is that the actuator might need replacing... Again, does anyone think the symptoms match or rule this out?

I can get my friend to do further testing if that might help narrow things down.

Thanks so much for all the help.
 
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