Freelander ECU fried Please help!!

1. Hi guys,
   
   I have been using this website for a while but have only just signed up so a big hello to every one.
   
   Story starts with ....i had just replaced and rapped my manifold on my 2004 Freelander HSE 1.8 K Series with a second hand one as it had snapped from the pre cat But unfortunately I had dropped a spanner which arked on the altinator. I went to start the car and nothing, I get a click from ABS unit and the starter motor relay clicks but nothing else. The lights all work as do the windows and alarm.
   
   I have swapped relays around but they only work in the SM port
   My car stereo now does not turn off when the key is out which it never used to do.
   I have replaced the ignition starter switch just in case but it still does the same thing.
   Also on the instrument gauge the temp gauge goes all the way up with a red light
   I have tested with a multimeter most of the switches and I get a good reading but not on the cables connecting to them.
   I have checked all the fuses and they are all good
   The starter motor I get a pretty poor reading so to me there is something going wrong somewhere (clearly)
   
   I have been looking through the Haynes and I'm worried as I see one wire going straight to the ecu from the alternator
   
   I'm at wits end I brought her in October to find the seller had lied about loads of things he showed paper work showing head gasket had been done. 2 months later I have had to pay 700 to get it done again as it was not skimmed first time round. He also said VCU was working well which it wasn't..... and the front crash bar is as bent as bent could be the roof leaks and well my Mrs wants it gone but I can't I'm in love with the car and just want it back on the road
   
   So does anybody have any suggestions or do you think I have done damage to the ecu/ccu i see eBay have some 2nd hand ones for £60 but would rather ask before I commit to buying it
   
   Thank you so much guys
   
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Ummmm have you checked all the fusable links in the engine bay box?

Madmustang said:

Ummmm have you checked all the fusable links in the engine bay box?

Click to expand...

That would be my first port of call too.

Yep all have been checked and they all ok

The wire going from the alternator to the ECU is a control wire. The ECU can sense how much current the alternator is making. The ECU will then raise idle speed to compensate for heavy electrical loads.

I would think that the ECU is internally protected against electrical abuse. However anything can happen when spanners short out high current wiring.

What do you mean when you say the starter has a "pretty poor reading"?

Have you tried to crank the engine by joining the starter spade terminal directly to the battery? This would eliminate the starter from the equation.
Was the key in the ignition, when the spanner shorted the alternator?

Would a shock like that fry the battery i wonder? Don't suppose you have access to another car for a jump start or a battery charger that can tell you if you battery is duff or not?

Forgot to add it was raining and engine bay did get a bit wet but not drenched.

The battery I have put on my hand held battery device me mate lent me and flags up good but it only has a reading of 12.2v

The starter has a reading of 0.01 when key is in ignition being turned

The cable trick of the battery to starter turned the engine over but did not start.

And I can't be 100% sure but I don't think I would of left keys in the ignition but I can't be definite and I have to be honest.

And may I say a big thank you for your time guys

Ok so I found the mega 150amp fuse had blown . I have replaced that the engine now cranks and starts for 2 secs and stops after trying to crank her again she won't start, I could here the fuel pump priming the first time but on the 2nd, 3rd I could not here it. If I leave her for 5 mins the fuel pump primes and starts for 2 secs than stops. Also I have noticed a whistle sound coming from what I think is the air mass sensor if I unplug it the noise stops the noise continues with keys out of ihmgnition.....getting close I can feel it does any one have any idea

It sounds like the alarm ECU isn't allowing the engine to remain running, even though it let's it crank over. It could have a CAN fault between the Ipack and engine ECU. That would explain why it stops running. It could also have a fuel pump fault I suppose. A fuel pump stopping makes the engine splutter to a stop. If the immobilizer is stopping it running, it will just stop.

There's no MAF on the 1.8 K series engine. A picture of the part would help identify it.

I have sorted it......it took an ECU kit of eBay to cure it but I'm back on the road