Fl 1 L series clutch judder only when warmed up

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
G

gBae

Member
Posts
23
Location
london
Strange one for me this but clutch seems nice and smooth when engine still cold but when warmed up becomes fiercer/judderry. So far I've copper greased the slave pushrod and oiled the shaft where it enters the bellhousing.
Also am going to change the IRD oil, is the filler/level the plastic one (hexagon) marked max 8 nM?
 
The filler plug is on that back of the IRD (faces you if you're under the middle of the car). IIRC its the only 1 there. It is not plastic - it is metal, but masquerades as cheese as it is so soft - be careful loosening it, use a good fitting hex socket.

I get a lot of judder on my L Series clutch. But only pulling away in 1st. All other changes are smooth-as and it holds well, no slipping or ought. Doesn't appear to make much difference whether hot or cold. Done it for years. Seems worse if I give it to little or to many revs. Give it a decent amount of revs and don't let the clutch out to slow or fast and its a lot better.
 
Thanks for the advice GrumpyGel another thing I get is a click from the rear when pulling away or going round corners it doesn't sound particularly nasty. (I've tried the subframe bolts and levering with a bar as I thought it could be that dodgy subframe captive nut issue - still not convinced it's defo not that though) But I expect all these niggles to go away after the IRD oil change....
 
I doubt the issues you have described will go away with an IRD oil change.

When I read 'click' I immediately think CV joints and there are CV joints on the rear drive shafts, but I think it very unlikely a rear driveshaft CV would give issues.

Once again I have various clunks and noises from my back end, they come and go and I leave it to the WOF (MOT) man to tell me if its something I should be worried about.

I did once have a clicking type noise on acceleration from somewhere near my driving position. Drove me nuts wondering what it was, till I worked out it was the driver door rubbers. The chassis must flex by a tiny amount pulling away and it was enough to make the door rubber rub and make a noise.

You sounds like you've done your homework on Freelander, I presume you have your tyres at the correct/same pressure and have tested the VCU to make sure its in reasonable condition?

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-1-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
 
My one wheel up test is prob just a bit over a minute so will get done soon ish. The click is just one click rather than the repetitive clicking that a front cv joint gives on lock. It happens when pulling away particularly after previously reversing but notice it when going round left hand corners (they tend to be tighter than right handers) I was sort of joking about the IRD oil change curing the issues but maybe just maybe....:p
 
gBae said:
My one wheel up test is prob just a bit over a minute so will get done soon ish. The click is just one click rather than the repetitive clicking that a front cv joint gives on lock. It happens when pulling away particularly after previously reversing but notice it when going round left hand corners (they tend to be tighter than right handers) I was sort of joking about the IRD oil change curing the issues but maybe just maybe....:p
Click to expand...
:D
 
gBae said:
Strange one for me this but clutch seems nice and smooth when engine still cold but when warmed up becomes fiercer/judderry.
Click to expand...

That's the PG1 clutch judder issue which is fixable, but the box needs removing to do it.
Some Rover dealers used a special spray lubricant to spray on the clutch splines, which held the issue off until the vehicle was out of warranty. Not ideal, but that's what happened. I had this same issue on several Rover vehicles, but it's easily cured while it's having the clutch replaced.
 
Clunk when reversing then starting away can be rear brake shoes moving about due to broken retainers or poor adjustment.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Clunk when reversing then starting away can be rear brake shoes moving about due to broken retainers or poor adjustment.
Click to expand...
If it is one of those retainer pins, that can lead to total loss of brakes at any time as the shoes can fall off the cylinder and your brake fluid spews out.

As it is a possibility - it is worth removing the wheels and drums to check them and and give the brakes a look over.

Its mentioned in that Tests thread linked to above.
 
Nodge68 said:
That's the PG1 clutch judder issue which is fixable, but the box needs removing to do it.
Some Rover dealers used a special spray lubricant to spray on the clutch splines, which held the issue off until the vehicle was out of warranty. Not ideal, but that's what happened. I had this same issue on several Rover vehicles, but it's easily cured while it's having the clutch replaced.
Click to expand...
So what's the fix? The spray lubricant or just meticulous cleaning - I'm thinking copper wire brush - of the splines and bearing slide before greasing. Or sumink else as well?
 
GrumpyGel said:
If it is one of those retainer pins, that can lead to total loss of brakes at any time as the shoes can fall off the cylinder and your brake fluid spews out.

As it is a possibility - it is worth removing the wheels and drums to check them and and give the brakes a look over.

Its mentioned in that Tests thread linked to above.
Click to expand...
Are they the pins that turn in 90 degrees and held in wiv a small spring that's prone to fly orft and get lost? Don't all drum brakes have those pins to hold the shoes?
 
gBae said:
Are they the pins that turn in 90 degrees and held in wiv a small spring that's prone to fly orft and get lost? Don't all drum brakes have those pins to hold the shoes?
Click to expand...
Yeh, I think! Pictured here...

Brake_Shoe.jpg


There have though been a number of threads go through here where those pins have failed and has caused total loss of brakes.
 
gBae said:
So what's the fix? The spray lubricant or just meticulous cleaning - I'm thinking copper wire brush - of the splines and bearing slide before greasing. Or sumink else as well?
Click to expand...
While the box is off and the clutch is being replaced, the input shaft splines of the gearbox need proper cleaning of dust, as does the bearing slide extension, then lubrication with clutch lubricant. There's a special clutch grease available made by Sachs.
I've used a moly based grease to good effect on the splines and bearing slide extension, and release fingers in the past, but only because I couldn't find my clutch lubricant.
Obviously you can't use much grease as it could get on the clutch plate, but the splines, bearing slides, and bearing contact face with fingers must be clean smooth and lubricated to prevented binding.
I also remove, clean, and lubricate the release fork rod where it sits in the bushings, as these also bind.
Basically if there's any part of the release assembly which binds, then it needs to be prevented from doing so, or it won't operate the clutch smoothly.
 
GrumpyGel said:
If it is one of those retainer pins, that can lead to total loss of brakes at any time as the shoes can fall off the cylinder and your brake fluid spews out.

As it is a possibility - it is worth removing the wheels and drums to check them and and give the brakes a look over.

Its mentioned in that Tests thread linked to above.
Click to expand...
andyfreelandy said:
Clunk when reversing then starting away can be rear brake shoes moving about due to broken retainers or poor adjustment.
Click to expand...
 
GrumpyGel said:
Yeh, I think! Pictured here...

View attachment 270932

There have though been a number of threads go through here where those pins have failed and has caused total loss of brakes.
Click to expand...
GrumpyGel said:
Yeh, I think! Pictured here...

View attachment 270932

There have though been a number of threads go through here where those pins have failed and has caused total loss of brakes.
Click to expand...
Cheers - a different fixing arrangement from the shoes on the few (mainly old MBs) drum brakes what I've changed in the past. You'd think that total loss of brakes was something that shud not be possible by design
 
Nodge68 said:
While the box is off and the clutch is being replaced, the input shaft splines of the gearbox need proper cleaning of dust, as does the bearing slide extension, then lubrication with clutch lubricant. There's a special clutch grease available made by Sachs.
I've used a moly based grease to good effect on the splines and bearing slide extension, and release fingers in the past, but only because I couldn't find my clutch lubricant.
Obviously you can't use much grease as it could get on the clutch plate, but the splines, bearing slides, and bearing contact face with fingers must be clean smooth and lubricated to prevented binding.
I also remove, clean, and lubricate the release fork rod where it sits in the bushings, as these also bind.
Basically if there's any part of the release assembly which binds, then it needs to be prevented from doing so, or it won't operate the clutch smoothly.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that Nodge68. Good to know.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
Series 3 Petrol - judder when hot ( replaced all ignition, clutch and gbox refurb)
Replies
7
Views
979
ciderman
ciderman
Dr_evil
Series King Cab
61 62 63
Replies
1K
Views
127K
discomark10
discomark10
Back
Top