fishsponge's ongoing thread of problems!

[fishsponge]

I did take the Landy back regarding the swivel hubs... but only to the garage that I asked to replace them originally.

I could not take the Landy back to the person I bought it from because (a) there is no warranty on a private sale and (b) it had been 6 months since I bought it!

I think you may have misunderstood... (which isn't surprising given the length of this thread!).

Plus, the swivel hub was replaced almost a year ago!

 

[thebiglad]

Take the landy back re; swivel hubs

NO PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not the swivel hubs again - that's what started this whole thing:doh::doh::doh:

 

[Mr Noisy]

NO PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not the swivel hubs again - that's what started this whole thing:doh::doh::doh:

i was just thinking "lol, blast from the past"

 

[nick2303]

ok... thanks for all the advice, people! I think i've found the leak:

Land Rover Discovery 300Tdi Passenger Footwell Water Leak - YouTube

Underneath the washer bottle there are no leaves and when the vehicle is just standing in the rain no water seems to come in. When i'm driving on wet roads, however, that's when the water seems to come in.

do you guys agree that it's the grommet shown in the video or is there anything above there that it could be coming from?

I basically got it to leak by sticking the hosepipe pointing downwards in front of the washer bottle. It was on spray though, so water was basically going everywhere in that corner of the engine bay.

nick2303: thanks for the advice - do you agree it's the same grommet you had trouble with? If so, did you have to remove the grommet to clean all the rust off, or did you just basically clean around it or just lift it's edges, but leave it in place?

Regarding the list of stuff i'll need:

1 some rust treatment... - I have Waxoyl aerosol... presumably this is not ideal - I need something that can be painted or sprayed on? Will anything from Halfords do? Or Homebase/B&Q
2 some silicon sealer.... - Got it.
3 paint.. - Why? to make it look nice? or to protect it? I have some black external Hammerite - I guess that'll do.
4 paint brush.. - Got loads.
5 a wet finger to spread the silicon sealer.. - Sure I can get one of them!
6 a cloth to wipe yr finger after youve spread the silicon sealer.. - Pair of jeans.
7 a bin to put the cloth in after you have wiped the silicon sealer off ya finger.. - Yeah, yeah...
8 a bin man to empty the bin.... etc...etc... ad infinitum..... - Oh, but what if the bin man won't empty the bin? Do i phone the council? Should i dispose of the rag correctly? What class of "disposed waste" would it be?

thats the one....

i just poked around to remove as much rust as i could, then treated the rust, then painted and siliconed over it...

 

[fishsponge]

thanks for the advice

i assume you took the washer bottle out, right?

Also, when you say you "treated the rust, then painted and siliconed over it", you don't mean you covered the paint with a layer of silicone... surely you mean after you painted it you sealed it with silicone... presumably squeezing it in between the gromet and the metalwork, right?

 

[nick2303]

couldnt get washer bottle out... couldnt get a screwdriver long enough to reach the mounting screws with enough force to undo em while holding the nut under the wheel arch at the same time.. would have had to grind nuts off under wheel arch and replace with new fixings..

did as much as i could from the footwell side..

treated the rust with the stuff that turns it black.

i tried to get the rust treatment under the grommet as i wasnt sure i'd be able to get it back in correctly if i removed it... its a very awkward spot to get to with anything larger than yr finger..

when the rust treatment had been left the correct length of time i painted the area and again tried to get paint under the lip of the grommet..

when that had dried i attacked the area with the sealant..

you kno the problem, you have an outline of the cure, there is no more info you need, roll ya bl@@dy sleeves up and get on with it...

everythin comes with instructions i suggest you read em..

i have nothing further to add to this now..... i'm out!

 

[scrappyloz]

The rust treatment stuff that goes black is K-rust or kurust i cant remember

 

[fishsponge]

well the Disco is in the garage today... i've had enough of it wandering to the left and i have learned that the SRS light is now an MOT failure as of 2012, so that must be fixed!

I am yet to find out more, but it looks like the rotary coupler I bought works fine for cruise control, but not the airbag (maybe), and my two left wheels are closer together than my two right wheels.

It never used to do this before I put new wheels and tyres on and had the wheel alignment done, so I think the wheel alignment just needs to be done again to compensate for the rear axle.

I will find out more when I speak to the garage later today (when I pick up the car).

 

[Brian S]

Have you checked the trailing arm bushes are all ok?

 

[fishsponge]

yeah - replaced the trailing arm bushes myself not so long ago anyway.

turns out the rear axle is bent! The wheel isn't toed in or out by enough to care, but is set forward by 7mm. This combination results in a constant wandering to the left. I therefore plan to shim the trailing arm by 3mm or so!

Any idea what shims I need to ask for? (i.e. internal diameter, external diameter, material)?

As for the SRS light, it looks like the rotary coupler I bought from the scrappy is broken, so I need to buy another one.

 

[fishsponge]

right - both of these problems are solved!!

Rear-left trailing arm has been shimmed by about 2-3mm and it drives straighter than any car i've ever owned.

Regarding the SRS light, I put in another rotary coupler from the scrappy and the light reset itself, so no need for a diagnostics computer in my case!

So... on to the next question... i'd like to replace the two plastic "plugs" under the bonnet with brass ones. I understand this is done by everyone. Should I buy 2x ERR4686B or is this the wrong part number?

Also, I'm getting tired of unseizing my rear-left brake caliper. I know I can buy a piston & seal kit, but i'd rather buy a new caliper. Should I buy 1x STC1265 or 1x SMC500240G or am I wrong again?

Thanks in advance!

 

[thebiglad]

right - both of these problems are solved!!

Rear-left trailing arm has been shimmed by about 2-3mm and it drives straighter than any car i've ever owned.

Regarding the SRS light, I put in another rotary coupler from the scrappy and the light reset itself, so no need for a diagnostics computer in my case!

So... on to the next question... i'd like to replace the two plastic "plugs" under the bonnet with brass ones. I understand this is done by everyone. Should I buy 2x ERR4686B or is this the wrong part number?

Thanks in advance!

Excellent news on the resolution of those problems, re the replacement of the black plastic plugs, go to your nearest big DIY store and buy yourself a pair of half inch chrome radiator plugs. They come complete with a rubber O-ring and are perfect for the job.

Dave

 

[Mr Noisy]

he's right about the plugs.

the QT alloy ones are suprisingly cheap but the BnQ items are the easiest to obtain.

You could even try the ones with the built in bleed screw, very handy!

 

[fishsponge]

So instead of buying 2x ERR4686B I should just pop to B&Q and buy two half-inch chrome radiator plugs? I'll give that a try tomorrow. Is brass not the recommended material though, to replace the plastic ones?

What is "QT Alloy"? Are they one proper Land Rover ones?

Also, I'm getting tired of unseizing my rear-left brake caliper. I know I can buy a piston & seal kit, but i'd rather buy a new caliper. Should I buy 1x STC1265 or 1x SMC500240G or am I wrong again?