Failed emision test 1972 landy. any tips or tricks?

Hi.
Taken my 1972 diesel landy for MOT today and it failed on emissions.

He said "some parts of the emission test don't count, but some part of it does..

its the part that does that's failed".

also said "there's too much diesel? you need to get the blue smoke reduced"

so. with this mass of data at my disposal. are there any tips or tricks on how to get it past this test.

the car runs perfectly well , smokes a bit when first starts or when revving, but otherwise fine.

i was hoping not to have to replace injectors just to see if makes a difference so are there any other options.

a few tricks i have been given by my Pub buddies are:

Run it lean? clamp the pipes.

Take the air filter out

There might be a screw to adjust the diesel mix or the pump?

fill the tank with bio fuel.

stick some petrol in the tank

stick some paraffin in the tank

all these suggestions were in the pub, so i don't trust any of them.

could anyone advise if any of the above will get it through or what might?

many thanks again

Have a play with the fuel pump...as said, run it lean rather than rich...then adjust it back after the mot so you can climb hills again!

Have a play with the fuel pump.

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Ok. how do i play with it exactly? i noticed a screw on the pump. would that be the bit i play with?

ta

lorries we used to mark pump and move it for mot and then put back afterwards, injection pipes need loosening to move pump

Is it the 2.25?

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyoFui0ILiA"]YouTube - ‪land rover 2.25 diesel fuel pump adjusting‬‏[/nomedia]

Hi.
Yes, it is the 2.25 diesel early s3

Sounds like it failed on the visual part of the test.
Blue smoke doesnt sound like to much fuel more like oil problem, but diesel engines are funny buggers.
You will need to advance the pump timing to try and clean up the diesel side of things, rotate it clockwise as viewed from above try a couple of mm and see how you go, loosen the high pressure pipes so they are not under tension plus they make it difficult to turn the pump, loosen the three nuts at the base of the pump and turn the pump tighten it all back up, swear that it now takes 2o seconds on the starter as you force all the air out of the high pressure pipes and away you go!


Lynall

You could also try a diesel additive to make it run cleaner for the test - and make sure its warmed up before its tested

iirc emissions are visual only for pre 1977 diesel, or pre 1974 petrol.
when we've had problems like this, we drop the fuel filter off, fill it with injector cleaner, replace it and go straight for the test.
as said above, make sure its warm as well.

If it's burning oil(blue smoke) drop the oil out and refill with fully synthetic oil it doesn't burn as much as mineral oil so smoke is reduced

many thanks for this advice.

iirc emissions are visual only for pre 1977 diesel

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The guy put it one of those test machines and the machine said "Fail"
i thought it was exempt from this but he didn't seem to agree.
also the sheet does say blue smoke whilst idling and blue smoke at high revs. so it could be both the machine and the eye test that has failed?

I have read "officially" that if i can obtain a letter (or copy of) from the manufacturer to say that this car was not designed to (or couldn't possibly) pass an emissions test, they have to abide by it and it becomes exempt. does such a letter exist?

Blue smoke doesnt sound like to much fuel more like oil problem

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odd that it would be burning oil problem as It doesn't go much oil at all (haven't had to top it up since Xmas). although I was about to change the oil as the oil in the car must be years old.

But i have bought the classic mineral oil and was going to get some additive but cant remember which was best for worn rings etc "steroids for oil")

You could also try a diesel additive to make it run cleaner for the test

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I did have diesel injector cleaner in the tank when i last filled it & most has already been used. but I wasn't sure if this would have made it worse.

The garage is about 5 miles away so its pretty hot when i get there, problem is it is then parked up for 30 minutes before they test it

Please keep the tips coming in, ill use em all if i have to.

many thanks

go to a different station

make sure it's fully warmed up, so go for a 20 mile drive before - and put a good few litres of veg oil in the tank

would Lucas Engine Oil Stop Leak help. it does claim to, but does it take 500 miles before it has an effect?
or, would using STP engine flush be better. this one goes in before I change the oil so I assume it works pretty fast.

p.s. keep the tips coming in please

engine flush is just paraffin engine conditioners ,injector cleaners are only lighter fluid cheaper to buy them look next time at ingredients there all have the same

Visual as far as I'm aware, get it hot

visual

jamesmartin said:

go to a different station

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Yup,or get them to read this MOT Testers Manual incase there getting confused

Whack in a fuel cleaner and thrash it for about 50 miles.

Thanks oil dripper. some interesting reading there. it shouldn't have failed.

he didn't get the temp up, just idled it for a few minutes.

also the paragraph relating to this age vehicle: The criterion is density and not volume of smoke. The description 'dense smoke' includes smoke or vapour which largely obscures vision.

This isnt the case at all, there is dense smoke when i start it up, but not when its running. or when its hot.
there is blue smoke when you rev it up, but certainly not enough to obscure the view?

would there be any point in going back to the garage and handing him a copy of this or should i just look around for a garage that might know this stuff or go to the garage that did the last MOT on this car (before i bought it)