Series 3 Ignition Problem

Series 3 Ignition Problems

For context I am a complete novice but I am trying to fix my Dads Series 3 for a nice Christmas surprise. We’ve had the car for a few years but about a year ago the ignition completely failed and we can’t figure out why.

The issue is that when you turn the key in the ignition the dash lights up but when you turn it further there is only one click and no sound of the ignition creating sparks. I have checked the battery and it is fine, I’ve replaced the ignition coil and it hasn’t helped and I can see that the previous owner has replaced some of the components of the distributor, so I don’t think it’s any of those issues.

If anyone here has some tips for things to try or checks to narrow down the problem that would be a huge help, thanks!

Does the starter turn thr engine, or do you mean there is a click and the engine doesn't try to turn?

I take it it doesn't even turn the engine when you try?
You need to get it to crank first. Its quite a simple system really but it needs to turn over.
So look at the earths and the starter solenoid leads first.

Battery could be better. but should crank an old engine.

J

Thanks so much for the reply guys. I did have a video of turning the key but can’t seem to upload it.

You’re right that it simply clicks once and the engine doesn’t turn over at all. We’ve had the crank out and manually turned the engine over to make sure it’s not seized too.

So does that mean it’s likely the earths and solonoid leads as you mention? If so what do I need to do to check those?

Why have you had the crank out?
Or do you mean the starting handle, sorry not so familiar with said engine.

J

Before worrying about the ignition side of things you need to get it turning over.
Clean battery posts and cables, clean the other end of the earth strap and any other earth straps you can find.
Go to the starter motor and clean check it's connections.
You could bypass the main earth using a jump lead and also live to starter motor.
How about a tow start, have you tried that?

Get a good battery jumper cable and connect between the negative terminal and somewhere on the engine engineer lift ring is good if you've got one, or try the thermostat housing, somewhere you'll get a good connection to the engine block. That will help rule out an earthing problem
What does the voltage read when the ignition is on and when you turn the key? What voltage do you get with the headlights on?

@marjon - sorry you’re right, not the crank but used the starting handle to turn it over.

@Anaconda - thanks for the suggestions, I will try this tomorrow. What do you mean by live to starter motor… is this similar to what Kermit suggests with connecting a cable between the negative and the starter motor?

@kermit - thanks I’ll try that tomorrow too. When we turn the key the voltage drops to just above 12 Volts and then shoots back to 12.4.

Kermit is suggesting using a good known earth. You can use a jump lead from the battery negative to a good clean earth point on the engine, lifting eye or similar.
This will help with a possible earth problem.
If the starter doesn't then turn over then possibly remove the starter to test it. I imagine it is similar to our previous 2a so easy enough to remove, disconnect battery first though.

You can do the same with a lead from the battery direct to the starter terminal, if you're careful

If you zoom in to the pic of the starter you can see an earth strap going to a mounting bolt.
You can see a stud on the end of the starter with the live cable going to it.
You can use a live jump cable to the stud to test if the starter turns. Make sure it is in neutral and you will probably get a few sparks when touching the jump lead to the starter.

Or you can just jam a spanner across the 2 big terminals on the solenoid.

J

marjon said:

Or you can just jam a spanner across the 2 big terminals on the solenoid.

J

Click to expand...

You can do that but at least if you use a jump lead it rules out any problems with any of the cables.
Spanner would be easier and quicker though and if it works then happy days.

Whatever happened to those solenoids that had a push button in the middle?

Anaconda said:

You can do that but at least if you use a jump lead it rules out any problems with any of the cables.
Spanner would be easier and quicker though and if it works then happy days.

Click to expand...

Believe I said to check cables/earths in my earlier post.
A spanner is a quick dirty way of checking a few things, if you know what is what of course

J

It was the earlier ones that had the button? The one on my 2A doesn't

marjon said:

Whatever happened to those solenoids that had a push button in the middle?




Believe I said to check cables/earths in my earlier post.
A spanner is a quick dirty way of checking a few things, if you know what is what of course

J

Click to expand...

Well of course. Hopefully the OP has the info he now needs to check the starter cables and starter motor.

kermit_rr said:

It was the earlier ones that had the button? The one on my 2A doesn't

Click to expand...

Our old 2a had a starter button and no relay, 1966 and originally positive earth.

Mine has the button under the dash and is still positive earth, but no button on the solenoid

Anaconda said:

Our old 2a had a starter button and no relay, 1966 and originally positive earth.

Click to expand...

Sorry I meant had no solenoid.