Exhaust Fittings & Copper SliP?

Austin Shackles wrote:

> yeah, but I've not got any hex brass stock... Given the stock, nuts would
> be a doddle. I've seen 'em for sale, in Halfrauds of all places. But the
> modern ones are normal nut sized, and wouldn't be strong enough. Traditional
> 1/2" a/f ones used to be about 1/2" deep as well, so they don't strip.
>
> All the old motors used to have brass nuts on the exhaust manifold and on
> any exhaust flanges.

Howmuch stock do you need -I've got 6 feet of 1/2AF somewhere.

Steve

On Sat, 02 Sep 2006 22:14:11 +0100, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On or around Sat, 02 Sep 2006 18:50:49 +0100, RichardB
><rDOTbush@btconnectDOTcom> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>
>>
>>Hi All,
>>
>>Having spent most of the afternoon battling to
>>replace the exhaust down-pipe on my LR90 which,
>>included sheering one of the studs, I wondered if
>>I should use copper slip when re-assembling?
>>
>
>like they said, brass nuts, but they're difficult to find. proper ones are
>thicker than steel nuts so they're strong enough.
>
>If you put stainless steel nuts on, then at least the nuts don't rust...
>stainless and copper grease, I reckon. The copper will stay there, even if
>the grease part burns off.
>
>when doing the sort of joints with bolts, stainless ones.

Although not specifically for LR exhaust system studs, I have found
that graphite put into the threads on assembly, does improve the
removal of nuts from bits that get very hot. I just rub a soft
pencil(a broad carpenters pencil is good!) across the treads of both
bits.

It always seemed to make a difference to motorbike exhaust systems
I've had previously.

HTH

Neil

(Reply via NG please)