Engine dying after 10mins/miles

Hi folks. Disco 2, TD5, 2001, RH Drive, UK, 101k mls on clock, genuine (Had since new.)
Background:- 6 months ago, had to change Fusebox/EU unit (under dash, right side) due to well known water ingress problem. Cleared all problems and car running great until very recently.
Now, with no bad running warning, the engine will just stop after driving for around 2 to 10 miles. Running on tick-over, engine stops after around 5 to 10 mins. Same fault I suppose ?
Have cleaned some oil from the main ECU connectors (under bonnet, behind battery) (well known prob.) No oil within ECU. Did this several times over a couple of days using Brake Fluid cleaner. Nice and clean with no sign yet of any re-contamination. Changed Fuel Filter, using bleeding sequence of course. No change. Changed complete Fuel Pump. Still no change.
I intend to fit a new Injector Harness next, but I doubt this will cure fault, given the now v clean ECU connectors. My Hawkeye is not registering any faults during all this.
Where do I look next ??
Any advice on what to look for next would be greatly appreciated.
Regards
DaveMac, Dumfries, Scotland

Does it restart straight away? do you have to purge it?

Cheers

neilly said:

Does it restart straight away? do you have to purge it?

Cheers

Click to expand...

Have tried running fuel bleed sequence before starting, but does not seem to help starting. Starting after cutting out takes a lot of effort from the starter and I always feel the battery is about to give up before it fires into life. Lots of cranking !!!

Does it start OK when it is cold? sat overnight?

Cheers

neilly said:

Does it start OK when it is cold? sat overnight?

Cheers

Click to expand...

No. Does not seem to make much difference when I try to start it. A few days ago, during all this, it did start immediately I turned key, but afraid this was just a one off. I will prime the fuel lines again today and then leave overnight before trying to start tomorrow. Will report back here.
Many thanks for responding. Really getting me down this prob. !!

which way are you priming it?

Cheers

It could be a strange sort of problem with the crank sensor too.
Worth checking.

This is from the manual.

brian47 said:

It could be a strange sort of problem with the crank sensor too.
Worth checking.

Click to expand...

Would hawkeye not show this?

Cheers

Thanks for info. I have been priming as follows :-
1.Turn on ignition.
2. Immediately press accelerator pedal quickly 10 times.
Pump then runs on and off for approx. 5 mins, with engine symbol coming on and off several times, along with occasional Water symbol flash.
After 5 mins pump stops and all fault lights are out.
I then try starting. Lots of cranking !!!
Once started, I can switch off, then it starts again immediately I turn key. I have just repeated this and it works every time.
I know however, that if I leave it running, it will die after about 10 mins.
I will try the purging method you suggested from the book.
Many thanks for trying to help.
DaveMac

OK. Tried priming/purging fuel as per manual. No change. Repeated a couple of times. No joy. Engine starts reasonable quickly after this but after approx. 8 mins, tickover goes rough for a second or two then engine stops. Priming seems to make starting a bit easier, but still needs around 10 secs cranking.
On Hawkeaye Still getting from "Read DTC's" = "No DTCS Found"
If I go to "Circuit Tests" then "CM Check" I get "CM ROM Checksum Error"

Not sure what that means. Could do with a list of Hawkeye code meanings !!
It all still sounds like fuel control related, but I suppose there are a number of sensors that would tell the ECU to cut engine.
Any further ideas ??
DaveMac

Checksum error "could be" Hawkeye system restored to default factory settings, or an iffy CMOS battery.
Can be a bit of a pain reloading a program as we some times find on control panels we look after.

discool said:

Checksum error "could be" Hawkeye system restored to default factory settings, or an iffy CMOS battery.
Can be a bit of a pain reloading a program as we some times find on control panels we look after.

Click to expand...

Thanks for suggestion on Hawkeye defaulting. Got a host of things to check tomorrow. Particularly wiring to various sensors eg Inertia Switch, Crankshaft Sensor, Wiring going to ECU, etc. Will also check all relays, fuses,and Air Bleed Valve. Fingers crossed xxxxxxxxx
Regards
DaveMac

my money is on the injector washers

+1 for injector seals! Classic symptoms.
Have they ever been changed?
Dont think its one of those faults that a diagnostic check will show up though!
Mark

OK folks. I hear what you are saying in regard to Injector washers etc.
Update. This morning, under bonnet, swapped over a few compatible relays, Lifted and reinserted most of the fuses (non were blown) and cleaned contacts for all these with Brake cleaner.
Wiggled all the wiring to any sensors that I could reach. All wiring looked ok.
Then did the usual fuel purging and got the beast started, lots of cranking, then she ran on idle nice and smoothly for about 30 mins. (Improved from 10 mins.)
Repurged etc, then started again, not too much cranking this time. She ran on idle, nice and smoothly for almost 3 hours before I decided to switch her off !!!!!
Over next couple of hours, it started a dozen times, immediately on the key turn ! No purging required.
Think I will leave it overnight and see how it behaves in the morning.
With regard to Injector seals, (never previously changed) as she seems to be running smoothly on idle for long periods, is it still possible the seals are leaking ?
These is no sign of oil in water or fuel in the oil. Running static and revving up to 4k, the exhaust is clean and clear, with no sign of smoke, water or fuel.
Anyway, I will wait and see how she performs tomorrow morning, and report back.
Thanks for all the advice. Watch this space !!!
Regards
Davemac

Had this last year with a Discovery II. My mechanic changed the injector seals and it's been fine since.

Update. Ok took disco for test drive yesterday. Absolutely fine for around 20 miles mixed driving. Then engine died on me. Purged fuel, lots of cranking, eventually started, limped home with a further 2 stops in 2 - 3 ml steps.
Bull by the horns time !!! Started work to :-
1. Clean sensors, MAP, MAF, Air Filter element etc. (BTW all looked absolutely fine and clean.)
2. Replace Injector seals/washers.
3. Replace Injector Loom while I'm at it.
4. Also new valves to fit in Fuel Filter housing. (Air Bleed & Non-Return.)
Doing all this in a "oner", so if it cures problem, then I may never identify the culprit !!!
Would have liked to also replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator, but it looks like a real "pig" of a job, so I will leave this as last thing to do after testing with the listed work above.
Waiting delivery of a few parts. Hope to report back in a couple of days.
Thanks to all forum members for advice on this.
Regards
DaveMac

The only thing from your list which would give you that symptom are the injector washers(as already said), a.m.o.f., being from 2001 it might not have a non-return valve at all, only air bleed valve

sierrafery said:

The only thing from your list which would give you that symptom are the injector washers(as already said), a.m.o.f., being from 2001 it might not have a non-return valve at all, only air bleed valve

Click to expand...

OK. Hope you are right in regard to the injector washers being the culprit ! Would be really anoyed if my things to do work list do not cure fault.
Thanks for help. Will update in a day or so when work completed.
BTW It's been snowing here today, so may be more than a day or so !!!!!!!!!!
Regards
DaveMac