Disco 2 Td5 No power after 2.5k - 3k RPM

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bahteles

bahteles

Member
Posts
38
Location
Brazil
Hey guys I'm having this annoying issue since I got this truck 6 months ago, I know this ain't no racing car but I mean cmon it's just way too slow to build momentum, 0-100km/h takes 3 weeks and top speed barely reachs 120km/h

At full throtle it goes kind all right until it hits 2.5k to 3k rpm, then it just stops there until I lose the foot a little bit to change gear.

Here is a list of things I did so far:
- egr delete
- replace all turbo hoses
- replace the crankshaft position sensor
- replaced injector loom, new gasket
- cleaned ecu oil (didn't open the ecu, just cleaned the connectors but left it hanging a few hours and very little oil came out)
- replace MAF sensor (tried disconnect but doenst seem to make difference)
- cleaned MAP sensor
- new air filter, cleaned airbox
- new turbo vacuum solenoid (also tried the bypass but doesnt seem to improve)
- new wastegate (tried with 13 rods to 8 rods, it has more power from 0 to 2.5k but nothing after)
- no play in the turbo rotor or oil nterior looks pretty good
- no black smoke at any moment



 

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I'm sure you would get asked by others!
Are you able to get a code reader! I.e. nanocom? From your part of the world?
As is seems that you have done most, if not all! on the mechanical side? Which would mean you need to have a look at the electrical side??

Kev
 
Badger688 said:
I'm sure you would get asked by others!
Are you able to get a code reader! I.e. nanocom? From your part of the world?
As is seems that you have done most, if not all! on the mechanical side? Which would mean you need to have a look at the electrical side??

Kev
Click to expand...
Unfortunately I can't, nanocoms are not available here and to import one it will cost a arm and a leg o_O
I don't really know what else I can do without a reader
 
bahteles said:
I don't really know what else I can do without a reader
Click to expand...
Hi, unfortunately without a proper diagnostic tool all you can do is to guess and spend more money on parts hoping that it will be fixed eventually

what's certain is that if at 8 threads on the wastegate rod is not going to overboost that engine doesnt deliver enough boost...
bahteles said:
- replace the crankshaft position sensor
Click to expand...

bahteles said:
- replace MAF sensor (tried disconnect but doenst seem to make difference)
- cleaned MAP sensor
Click to expand...
you should have replaced the MAP/IAT sensor instead of cleaning it cos that's the first suspect for this low boost symptom not the MAF or crank sensor.... if it's Eu3 engine it can be a clogged catalyst too

so IMO without using a proper diagnostic tool all you can do is:
- check fuse F2 engine bay... if it's OK
- check this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/ ... if it's OK
- replace the MAP sensor... if no change
- replace the AAP(airbox) sensor...if no change
- send the injectors to be checked(eventually fixed) by specialists

now think to all you've spent untill now and how much you can spend from now guessing what's the fault and compare with the price of a nanocom or hawkeye... no other tools would work perfectly well with the Td5 EMS even though some cheaper ones are good with the rest of the systems

Good luck
 
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sierrafery said:
Hi, unfortunately without a proper diagnostic tool all you can do is to guess and spend more money on parts hoping that it will be fixed eventually

what's certain is that if at 8 threads on the wastegate rod is not going to overboost that engine doesnt deliver enough boost...



you should have replaced the MAP/IAT sensor instead of cleaning it cos that's the first suspect for this low boost symptom not the MAF or crank sensor.... if it's Eu3 engine it can be a clogged catalyst too

so IMO without using a proper diagnostic tool all you can do is:
- check fuse F2 engine bay... if it's OK
- check this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/ ... if it's OK
- replace the MAP sensor... if no change
- replace the AAP(airbox) sensor...if no change
- send the injectors to be checked(eventually fixed) by specialists

now think to all you've spent untill now and how much you can spend from now guessing what's the fault and compare with the price of a nanocom or hawkeye... no other tools would work perfectly well with the Td5 EMS even though some cheaper ones are good with the rest of the systems

Good luck
Click to expand...
Great post thank you, believe or not, importing a Nanocom to Brazil is insanely expensive due to taxes and shipping.

I can find pretty much any part I need here and it's not that expensive, so far everything I replace I really need it since the car was sitting for the last 4 years.

I was thinking on going Fuel temp sensor next but Map and AAP seems like a good call as well.
 
Check the wiring that goes from the engine to the ECU, you'll most probably find oil / water will have made its way from the engine harness to the ECU giving you these problems.

Normally a case of drying it all out and all should be well.

Rich
 
bahteles said:
I was thinking on going Fuel temp sensor next
Click to expand...
That one would have other symptoms most likely starting issues or eventually a slight power loss if it reads too high but you can rule it out by unplugging it cos then the ECU goes to a 60*C default for the engine to have power
 
@sierrafery I just had a very interesting discovery lol, since you mentioned MAP sensor I was looking at at prices online and notice that the pictures was very different from the one I have in the car, it fits perfect though... So it's probably a different version?

Mine is a BOSCH 281002205
And this is the one I found Online MHK100820L
1711748808367.png
 

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If your truck is very slow to pick up, even with your foot on the floor and then it suddenly does, that is another system of a bust MAP or IAT, at least it was with mine.
Cleaning ti made no difference, so I got a Bosch, solved the problem.
But then I have a Foxwell diagnostic and live data showed this, well showed @sierrafery, who told me what to do!!;);)
 
sierrafery said:
The MHK100820 is AAP sensor for Eu3 engines, the MAP/IAT is MHK100640/BOSCH 281002205 but if you dont want to buy genuine LR which is the best get a bosch one not other aftermarket
Click to expand...
According to manual if I disconnect my MAP sensor it would ready a default value, so in theory it would make the car run better?
Also, I'm having a hard time finding the bosch 281002205 but I did find an alternative BOSCH 0281002316 that looks like a perfect match
 
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bahteles said:
According to manual if I disconnect my MAP sensor it would ready a default value, so in theory it would make the car run better?
Also, I'm having a hard time finding the bosch 281002205 but I did find an alternative BOSCH 0281002316 that looks like a perfect match
Click to expand...
I tried that and with the MAP/Iat disconnected it ran just as cr@p. But you can't do any harm trying it.
 
bahteles said:
According to manual if I disconnect my MAP sensor it would ready a default value, so in theory it would make the car run better?
Click to expand...
It's a limited boost default to keep the vehicle running... If you disconnect a good MAP on a well running vehicle it would run like your's is running now it's not like with the MAF at all
bahteles said:
I did find an alternative BOSCH 0281002316 that looks like a perfect match
Click to expand...
maybe it looks like a perfect match but it's not as it's a 4 bar boost sensor while you need a 2.5 bar one... with that 4 bar one it would run like sh*t... these sensors are used on stage 2 or 3 remapped engines
 
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* Update *

So, @sierrafery I disconnected the AAP sensor the one attached to the Airbox and OMG the difference is crazy!

I always knew the truck was not running properly and tried it out everything out there but this is it! It runs so much better now, It pulls much better and it goes up to 4k rpm and change gears smoothly instead of pushing it forward like before.

I also finally hit 130km/h at 3k rpm which I never did before lol

I've been trying to figure it out this for 6 months now lol, I'm in love again with the Disco 😍
 
bahteles said:
So, @sierrafery I disconnected the AAP sensor the one attached to the Airbox and OMG the difference is crazy!
Click to expand...
Disconnecting AAP sensor unfortunately doesnt rule out the MAP sensor without live readings cos now it's on a max 1 bar boost default the ECU neglecting both the AAP and MAP sensor readings... what's certain now is that if you replace both sensors the vehicle will run as it should... i can imagine now how bad it went if you think that on this default is OK... so my advice is to bite the bullet and replace both sensors if you want it to run as it should... if your's is Eu2 engine the AAP sensor is frigging expensive but for Eu3 is acceptable, the thing is that the Eu2 AAP sensors are quite bullet proof, i've never seeo one dead, the Eu3 sensor has a temp output too and they are not so reliable...the MAP/IAT sensors are the most common failure with such symptoms. Good luck
 
sierrafery said:
Disconnecting AAP sensor unfortunately doesnt rule out the MAP sensor without live readings cos now it's on a max 1 bar boost default the ECU neglecting both the AAP and MAP sensor readings... what's certain now is that if you replace both sensors the vehicle will run as it should... i can imagine now how bad it went if you think that on this default is OK... so my advice is to bite the bullet and replace both sensors if you want it to run as it should... if your's is Eu2 engine the AAP sensor is frigging expensive but for Eu3 is acceptable, the thing is that the Eu2 AAP sensors are quite bullet proof, i've never seeo one dead, the Eu3 sensor has a temp output too and they are not so reliable...the MAP/IAT sensors are the most common failure with such symptoms. Good luck
Click to expand...
Mine is a Eu2 and I'm having a hard time finding a new AAP sensor, can only find used ones so maybe this is my only option.

I've purchase a scanner tool, hopefuly it will read map, maf and aap.

I've also search other threads and found another person with the exactly same issue as mine:
www.landyzone.co.uk

Replacing AAP sensor.

I do remember, I am not that old yet.........:D Maybe , if you know a fellow D2 owner you could be cheeky and ask to borrow theirs for a wee drive. Cheers Sorry not trying to insult you :) It would be good to find a known good one to try before shelling out but I am Billy no mates when it...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
Which proves that the AAP sensor was OK based on live readings too as it's default is 100kPa sharp and disconnecting it the ECU neglected the MAP reading too and the engine ran better on the max 1 bar default... unfortunately the guy didnt conclude but my guess is that the MAP sensor was fubar... as your's is Eu2 replace the MAP first and if it will run well that's it.... which was the plan i already suggested in post 4:
sierrafery said:
so IMO without using a proper diagnostic tool all you can do is:
- check fuse F2 engine bay... if it's OK
- check this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/ ... if it's OK
- replace the MAP sensor... if no change
- replace the AAP(airbox) sensor...if no change
- send the injectors to be checked(eventually fixed) by specialists
Click to expand...
but you can keep digging old threads and make all kind of tests if you think that others know better. Good luck

BTW... no cheap scanner tool will be reliable with Td5 live readings
 
bahteles said:
Mine is a Eu2 and I'm having a hard time finding a new AAP sensor, can only find used ones so maybe this is my only option.

I've purchase a scanner tool, hopefuly it will read map, maf and aap.

I've also search other threads and found another person with the exactly same issue as mine:
www.landyzone.co.uk

Replacing AAP sensor.

I do remember, I am not that old yet.........:D Maybe , if you know a fellow D2 owner you could be cheeky and ask to borrow theirs for a wee drive. Cheers Sorry not trying to insult you :) It would be good to find a known good one to try before shelling out but I am Billy no mates when it...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Click to expand...
Seriously mate, take @sierrafery 's advice, he knows what he is talking about.
The Map/iat sensor is much cheaper to replace. If you do that and it isn't better then have another think about paying shedloads
for a new Eu2 AAP, if you can find one.
which scanner did you get?
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Seriously mate, take @sierrafery 's advice, he knows what he is talking about.
The Map/iat sensor is much cheaper to replace. If you do that and it isn't better then have another think about paying shedloads
for a new Eu2 AAP, if you can find one.
which scanner did you get?
Click to expand...
Oh yeah I will definitelly go with @sierrafery advice, btw thank you both for helping me figure this out!
A MAP will be much easier and cheaper to find here then a AAP.

I've got a Launch CRP123e, I don't really have much options around here and a nanocom would cost 6x more to import
 
bahteles said:
I've got a Launch CRP123e
Click to expand...
Launch is a reputable chinese tool with overall good reviews, the main problem of all these kind of multivehicle OBD2 readers is the Td5 EMS which is an OBD2 unfriendly protocol and there can be false codes and erroneous live readings, for the ABS or transmission they work well. Anyway let us know what it can do for the D2 please... first of all clear the codes then go for a drive with all the sensors connected then read codes again as to not mix the current codes with hystorical ones.... i'm curious about how it displays live data
 
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