Disco 3 (LR3) Starts then immediately cuts out?

Hi, 56 TDV6 fires up and then cuts out immediately with a number of different warning lights and messages - and they dissapear before i can read them. ( Serious Fault / put the key fob next to the parking brake / different ones each time I think) I dont fancy spending >£500 on a fault reader - is there any alternative way to read the codes? It was recently serviced by an Indy about 10 miles away who changed belts and filters etc.

After reading a few threads, Im wondering about MAP? otherwise I'm a bit stuck and looking for kindly suggestions

Thanks for reading this far.

Buy a code reader or pay someone to read the codes about the only real options.

Thanks Anaconda - is there any option other than the £500 option? Does a second hand one (about £260) do most of what I need - as I saw some comments about needing a new licence key for my VIN at about £60? Thanks - and sorry for newbie questions

In general the more you pay the more indepth info you can get out of the vehicle.
If you are keeping it then buy a good one.
I don't have a Disco so can't advice a particular one suitable for it.

Pcpilot53 said:

Thanks Anaconda - is there any option other than the £500 option? Does a second hand one (about £260) do most of what I need - as I saw some comments about needing a new licence key for my VIN at about £60? Thanks - and sorry for newbie questions

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Icarsoft 100 quid.
500 quid is the GAPiid, you wont need that.

But as your indy has just serviced it, the logical thing would be to ring them and see what they say, might be a coincidence might not.

Maybe you can video the messages with your phone and pause to read them
Is the car battery fully charged?

If this is a Discovery 3, not 4, then there won't be any messages about 'put the key fob next to the parking brake'.
As above, you need to be able to read (and clear) DTC's to get any further - think of it as an investment.

Graculus said:

If this is a Discovery 3, not 4, then there won't be any messages about 'put the key fob next to the parking brake'.
As above, you need to be able to read (and clear) DTC's to get any further - think of it as an investment.

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Definitely a 3 and definitely saw that message - how else would i know it said it? It is now saying Park Brake fault every time

Fault reader winging its way to me.

Battery is new, recently, after advice from this board! [thanks]

The key message is an oddity, on a Discovery 3 the key reader is around the steering lock, the vehicle isn't coded or equipped for any kind of 'keyless' entry or starting and doesn't have a NFC antenna in front of the gearshift (not the park brake switch).
The park brake message is a better clue - is it an auto or manual transmission? Does the park brake apply & release with the switch?

Pcpilot53 said:

Definitely a 3 and definitely saw that message - how else would i know it said it? It is now saying Park Brake fault every time

Fault reader winging its way to me.

Battery is new, recently, after advice from this board! [thanks]

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Car year?

Says 56 plate, which is well before anything keyless, of any model.

Graculus said:

Says 56 plate, which is well before anything keyless, of any model.

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I was thinking if it was an early one, maybe it missed the ecu updates that deleted some things like the fbh dash light?
Anyway I think I am grabbing at straws!

Graculus said:

The key message is an oddity, on a Discovery 3 the key reader is around the steering lock, the vehicle isn't coded or equipped for any kind of 'keyless' entry or starting and doesn't have a NFC antenna in front of the gearshift (not the park brake switch).
The park brake message is a better clue - is it an auto or manual transmission? Does the park brake apply & release with the switch?

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Yeah... nothing keyless, but defo got that message , so as lynall said maybe the software doesnt match the car

Its Auto and the switch definately worked until recently, but now it doesnt do anything with ignition on, but car not running.

There is completely different hardware involved in each vehicle in terms of key recognition and start authorisation, it wouldn't be possible to load the 'wrong' software or somehow corrupt it to the point it thinks its a later model...
I think rather than guesswork, probably best to wait until you have some fault codes to steer the diagnosis in the right direction.

OK - owns up… batter connection on the Neg terminal was not as secure as it now is It was tricky to get it on and tighten when i replaced the battery. (The new battery seems to push up against the thick black cable more than the old one. I took out the battery and charged it up and refitted and bingo - it starts! These beasts are VERY picky about the battery levels

Happy Camper….. HOWEVER,

it now has the engine light on and very little power in 1st, pulling away. Like the accel pedal hardly works in 1st.

Code Reader arrived, and after installation I was able to get a P045 code - exhaust recirculation error (Travelling so don’t have the exact fault to hand).

Is this likely to be an actual fault in the ECR valves or could it be something to do with having the battery out and the software being reset? (I cleared all the codes at the start so I could see what was really current). Could the valves be blanked and the software doesn’t know that?

This car will be worth less than the Fault Reader soon! [dont get me wrong, i love it when it’s running] Any suggestions greatfully received - and thanks for all the input so far!

gearbox could be in limp mode from not getting a good connection, might need a code reader to reset that

I think 56 plate you can just blank the egr valves with plates from ebay etc, they always store a code if you blank them, the code does not effect the running of the car, but if the fault is real, ie the egr valve is stuck open, then yes it will be as flat as a wet fart!
07 onwards is different, so check yours is euro 3 and not euro4.
Mine has been blanked for years.

Check the duct that runs over the top of the radiator cowling from the air filter hasn't come adrift from the joint at either end, P405 could give you an EML illumination and reduced power, it could equally be as my learned friend above says, due to repeated electrical spikes in various modules. Time for further use of your new diagnostic tool - what did you get? Just so we have an idea of the items you'll be able to see and interact with.

Mine was an EU4 with blanked EGR's had to do some 'creative wiring' to keep the EML off...

The old get you home trick is a 2Pence coin between egr pipe and the flange, not sure which end of the pipe though?