Egr bypass problem..you won't believe this.

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52
Location
Cumbria
hello
First job on the project freelander and we run into a problem.

I was going to replace the old rusty egr blanking pipe/fitting/thingy.

Took the hoses off to get to the fitting and found that a previous owner had fitted the bypass pipe that doesn't have the little 90 degree side pipe with blanking disc on it, that would connect to the corrugated exhaust re circulation pipe/tube. In fact the corrugated pipe had a load of soft wadding shoved up the pipe followed by an 8mm socket shoved on top of that all topped off with an Allen key pushed through pipe to hold it all in. After removing all the metalwork I struggled to get the wadding out so started the engine. Of course nothing happened at first so I was looking up the pipe and then like a cartoon it all shot out along with black soot. Leaving me looking like a cross between the a chimney sweep and a coal miner!
Comedy aside, now that I am ready to fit the proper egr bypass pipe, it seems that the corrugated pipe has been cut off as it it way too short and the blanking plate comes nowhere near it.
Does anyone know if the pipe with corrugated section can be bought new so I can replace? Cannot find anything online. Anyone else solved a similar issue without shoving a hankie and a socket set up there again?
I don't know why I am laughing....but somehow I still am....
 
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Anyone know the part number or have one I can buy from you?
In hope, Mark
 
I've been reading the internet. Seems there are more than a few people who think the car runs better with the EGR working. Has anyone any views. Also my 1999 BMW diesel engine P38 does about 19 mpg. Is this respectable?
 
I've been reading the internet. Seems there are more than a few people who think the car runs better with the EGR working. Has anyone any views. Also my 1999 BMW diesel engine P38 does about 19 mpg. Is this respectable?
I would have thought that mpg is about right for urban - on the run I'd have thought you would get more - but I don't know much about them.

You should really ask in the Landyzone Range Rover forum.
 
Thanks for cheering me up!
I just drove my Hippo 40km on 5 cylinders (V6 :) ) to find out the highly recommended LR "Specialist" wasn't interested in
troubleshooting my ignition faults. Turns out he's a cherry picker who just works on the newer Rangies and LR3/4s.
So 40km back home. He may have blown smoke up my arse but at least he didn't blow soot in my face!
 
I've been reading the internet. Seems there are more than a few people who think the car runs better with the EGR working. Has anyone any views. Also my 1999 BMW diesel engine P38 does about 19 mpg. Is this respectable?
I believe @Nodge68 has reinstated his EGR and it has got rid of a flat spot in his throttle response.
 
I believe @Nodge68 has reinstated his EGR and it has got rid of a flat spot in his throttle response.

Not me. My EGR is currently deactivated by blocking the vac pipe. My TD4 is running well at the moment. Well it is for a diesel engine anyway. Having experimented with various MAFs recently. I can say that the £25 Ebay MAF I bought, isn't far off. The best I've tried has been the Pierburg and Synergy with MAF compensation turned on. This is working spot on and I'm currently assessing it's effect on fuel consumption. But dumping the EGR is a good improvement to make.
 
Thank you everyone for your comments, advice and part numbers.

I had no idea rover 75 parts were the same.

I think I will buy the rover 75 part rather than stand in the freezing cold at the local
Breakers yard trying to coax another one off.
 
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