Driveshaft won't refit......

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

98418665

New Member
Posts
127
Hi all,



I needed to replace a CV boot, so went ahead and managed to dismantle everything and change the boot following the nice set of instructions I found here http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/disco-2-replacing-cv-gaiter-60330.html



The problem now is that the drive shaft only goes about 90% of the way back in. It stops about 3 inches or so short, and clunks if tried to push further. The clunk sounds like it's coming from tip of the driveshaft across near the diff. I tried turning 90degs, and a zillion other tiny turns but it just won't go in any further.



I've also tried in P,D & N.



Any tips please on what I'm doing wrong? I gave up for tonight after a couple hours of :doh:, and pulling out what's left of my hair...



thanks.
 
Last edited:
Also forgot to say that when the driveshaft is going back in, it goes freely to within about 3 or 4 inches, then tightens up a bit and goes another inch or so before it stops with a clunk and won't go any further.
 
presumably youve not got shaft located in to diff gear,you need to feel it in whilst trying to tilt shaft up,not made easier because of cv
 
Ok thanks, and a Merry Xmas!

Just to clarify, you mean try to tilt the hub end of the shaft up, or angle it so that the other end at the diff gear is tilted up?

Also, is the transmission supposed to be in N while inserting the shaft?
 
Last edited:
Ok thanks, and a Merry Xmas!

Just to clarify, you mean try to tilt the hub end of the shaft up, or angle it so that the other end at the diff gear is tilted up?

Also, is the transmission supposed to be in N while inserting the shaft?

You need to try and lift the diff end of the shaft, to locate it. Then with a little twisting and turning it should slot straight in.


Dave
 
Cheers, I'll be back home on the 3rd so I'll give it another try refitting then. I was planning on using 'red' permatex instead of loctite on the four bolts that hold the hub on.

Any other bolts on this job that will need thread lock?

Also, I thought I might as well do the oil seal (pinion?) on the end of the diff, while everything is apart. Is it just a simple remove with a screwdriver, then drive the new one back in with a similar sized socket?

Thanks.
 
Thanks for the vid link, that's exactly the problem I've got - and it looks like an easy fix!

Actually I watched the very start of that one a while ago but closed it too early thinking it was some old historical land rover stuff....
 
Back
Top