Freelander 1 Do rear diffs rumble?

Got my hippo back from having new oil in the ird,gearbox and rear diff and the vcu mounts replaced ,I still have a "rumble" through the pedals ,steering wheel and the gear leaver wobbles a little(I was hoping this was because of the rubber mounts) .Before I had the mounts replaced on full lock it used to clunk but that was the mounts , I have driven the car on full lock slowly left and right and at about 10/20 mph no noise/clunks .It is more when I accelerate , the mechanic told me the old oil was ok i.e no bits of metal in the oil and was the right colour for old oil . But he reckons it is the rear diff ? I spoke to bell engineering who said they had not hared of this before they say if the diff is worn chances are it would make a "whining" noise and any clunk would be from the diff mounts .I have had these checked and they look fine not perished .Any ideas ? my car is a 2006 td4 and has just done over 72,000 miles

What tyres have you got?
Mike

I have the same size and make all round and I check that they are the same psi each week (Dunlop 225/55/17)

I was more interested in which ones.
Certain tyres are made of alot harder compounds than others and therefore make more noise. Also if you run All season or M+S marked tyres, these will make the drive train rumble.
If your running dedicated tarmac tyres and getting a rumble, that's more of a problem.
Mike

Sorry these are winter tyres and if anything they are smoother than the 16" ones I had on before ,I should have named this thread do rear diffs vibrate Even before I changed the tyres I had the rumble to some degree

Ok, winter tyres make a hum but don't vibrate as such.
No your rear diff shouldn't vibrate and they don't tend to. They whine, sometimes grate, sometimes they eat themselves!
I would check the drive shafts and wheel bearings.
Mike

Thank you for that I would just add he checked the u/js on the prop and they are fine I have read they also suffer from the lower engine tie bar bush going soft, I wonder if it could be something to do with that?

I presume that this is something like a worn mount or bearing, but I wonder if the engine is running a bit 'lumpy' - maybe a failing/blocked injector? Would think it would be accompanied by poor starting and smoking. Maybe some injector cleaner in the tank.

Thank you GG I had the running lumpy prob when I first had it and sorted that with the wiring kit you can get for the td4 , I hope and don't think its that in fact (and I bet I regret saying this) after a good run it does not miss at about 2500 rpm any more in neutral like a lot of these engines do . I think and hope it is not that ,as I have said I have driven the car on full lock at various speeds and no noise/clunks or clicks coming from the drive shafts ,going to try again later so fingers crossed I can rule them out

A rumble can be tyres, even if they look ok. Try swapping tyres left to right and right to left, to eliminate sawtoothing. Wheel bearings can also rumble, but the miles seem a bit low for wheel bearing trouble.

A quick update I took her out for a spin and there didn't seem to be to much vibration ,I had it on full lock and no noise or vibration at all . However when I went round a sharp right, the left hand side front suspension did make a clunking/ knocking noise ?? strange because I could have sworn there was a clunk from the right while I was driving yesterday

Had a look at the rear diff mounts and apart from a little movement which i assume is normal everything seems fine , i jacked up the left hand side front checked everything and it all seems ok no rips broken springs ect . Then tried to move the wheel left and right and up and down nothing solid as a rock , so tbh i am at a loss as to know where to go next .Later i am going to jack the front end up so both wheels are off the ground and have a good play see if anything rumbles/knocks
@Nodge i read on one post about the lower engine tie bar bush you mentioned can cause problems i wonder if it could be that? when i tried to spin the front wheel (it was in gear) as the drive shaft stopped the wheel from moving i could see the engine/exhaust move a little i dont know if that is because of the play in the rubber mounts and will do that anyway

tlo said:

@Nodge i read on one post about the lower engine tie bar bush you mentioned can cause problems i wonder if it could be that? when i tried to spin the front wheel (it was in gear) as the drive shaft stopped the wheel from moving i could see the engine/exhaust move a little i dont know if that is because of the play in the rubber mounts and will do that anyway

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It could be the lower tie bar bush. When it's soft, it allows the bottom of the engine to flop about uncontrolled.

I take it the only way to check it is to unbolt the big rubber and check to see how floppy/lose it is ?

Hi,
I have a new to me k series and I'm doing the same to debug a clunking noise. Replaced the diff mounts which seemed fine with a little bit of play. Lot tighter now and the clunking is less but still there. After diff mounts were replaced I took this video. Maybe something is similar to yours in the drive shafts???? Defo on both wheel sides not diff, I presume it's not normal and you have to push quiet hard...

Thank you irish i have not tried that i will see how mine are later,to be honest with you the more i think about it the more i think if my diff was that bad to vibrate and clunk it would not be driveable

irish109 said:

Defo on both wheel sides not diff, I presume it's not normal and you have to push quiet hard

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Normal. There has to be some slack in the shaft, or the shaft would go solid as the suspension went up and down.

Nodge68 said:

Normal. There has to be some slack in the shaft, or the shaft would go solid as the suspension went up and down.

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That is fuking music to my ears..... Cheers man! Will keep searching for my cluk

irish109 said:

Will keep searching for my c

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Check the propshafts UJs