Freelander 1 HELP PLEASE

I'm getting a slight knocking rotational sound from the back of my 56 plate freelander 1 td4. When driving I heard a clunk then the noise got worse.

I've jacked the landrover up on all 4 and turned it over in gear to find the knocking whooshing type sound.

Turns out it's between the rear diff or the rear nearside driveshaft. Driveshaft looks to be a little bent and not spinning around properly, it's spinning more like an oval than a circle if that makes any sense. I can shake the drive shaft freely with lots of play then rotate the wheel and it goes hard with no play.

Under acceleration the rear diff moves around violently, not all the but most the time. I've put brand new diff mounts on 1 week ago so mounts are good but somethings making it move violently.

I'm just hoping it's a simply drive shaft replacement but was wondering what you freelander people would suggest?

I've tried uploading videos of it but some reason won't let me.

First off, what miles are on it, and has the tyre maintenance been impeccable?. These need 4 identical tyres all round, with either all 4 replaced at a time, or if just 2 tyres are fitted, then the new identical tyres MUST go on the back.
Running with odd tyres, or new tyres on the front puts huge strain on the AWD components, causing them to fail catastrophically.

To upload a video, do it on YouTube, and link it to here.

It's done 156K... All tyres are identical brand and pattern with around 6/7mm on each.

Play like that in the driveshaft will throw the diff around.
Check the shaft where it comes out of the diff, if that is good then a driveshaft sounds the most likely fix. Get a good one, not a cheap ebay one as they vibrate.

andyfreelandy said:

Play like that in the driveshaft will throw the diff around.
Check the shaft where it comes out of the diff, if that is good then a driveshaft sounds the most likely fix. Get a good one, not a cheap ebay one as they vibrate.

Click to expand...

I'm going to remove the shaft tomorrow and inspect... prices vary from £70 upto £150 for the rear nearside... is there a specific brand that's worth buying for quality purposes?

stevenson_94 said:

I'm going to remove the shaft tomorrow and inspect... prices vary from £70 upto £150 for the rear nearside... is there a specific brand that's worth buying for quality purposes?

Click to expand...

Is it the inboard joint or outer joint that's allowing the shaft to run off centre?
If inboard, then it's likely a spider cup has failed. If it's the outer joint, then the CV joint has failed.
Use only genuine LR boxed shafts, or GKN, which are what is in the LR box.

Nodge68 said:

Is it the inboard joint or outer joint that's allowing the shaft to run off centre?
If inboard, then it's likely a spider cup has failed. If it's the outer joint, then the CV joint has failed.
Use only genuine LR boxed shafts, or GKN, which are what is in the LR box.

Click to expand...

I'm unsure to be honest, if you mean the end in the wheel hub or the end in the diff it's the end in the diff that's running off course.

stevenson_94 said:

I'm unsure to be honest, if you mean the end in the wheel hub or the end in the diff it's the end in the diff that's running off course.

Click to expand...

The diff end is the inboard joint. Now before buying a replacement shaft, you need to check to see if it's the joint outer diameter that's running off centre, or the shaft inside the joint off centre. If the latter a new shaft will solve the issue. If it's the former, then it's likely the diff output bearing that's collapsed.

Nodge68 said:

The diff end is the inboard joint. Now before buying a replacement shaft, you need to check to see if it's the joint outer diameter that's running off centre, or the shaft inside the joint off centre. If the latter a new shaft will solve the issue. If it's the former, then it's likely the diff output bearing that's collapsed.

Click to expand...

Have you got a email address or something I can send you a couple of videos of it up close... you'll get a better understanding when you see the video.

stevenson_94 said:

Have you got a email address or something I can send you a couple of videos of it up close... you'll get a better understanding when you see the video.

Click to expand...

Just upload pictures straight to here using the attach file button. Videos have to go on YouTube first, then simply copy the link to here.
Doing it this way helps others.

Nodge68 said:

Just upload pictures straight to here using the attach file button. Videos have to go on YouTube first, then simply copy the link to here.
Doing it this way helps others.

Click to expand...

From video, my take on it is that the inner drive shaft joint, the one nearest the diff, has failed. Rotating it stabilises the failed joint temporarily. Hopefully it hasn't damaged the diff (yet!!).

andyfreelandy said:

From video, my take on it is that the inner drive shaft joint, the one nearest the diff, has failed. Rotating it stabilises the failed joint temporarily. Hopefully it hasn't damaged the diff (yet!!).

Click to expand...

Got a full new shaft arriving tomorrow... going to swap it out and retest with all 4 wheels up again.

Landrover dealership wanted over £400 for a new rear driveshaft, local shops couldn't get hold of one even euro car parts. My only resort was £70 for a ebay one or pay over the odds.

Ok, while driveshaft off, worth changing the diff oil seal, just prizes out. Bound to be damaged and you will need to take off again if it leaks !! About a fiver. Be prepared for diff to dribble oil when shaft taken out.Top up afterwards.

andyfreelandy said:

Ok, while driveshaft off, worth changing the diff oil seal, just prizes out. Bound to be damaged and you will need to take off again if it leaks !! About a fiver. Be prepared for diff to dribble oil when shaft taken out.Top up afterwards.

Click to expand...

Thank you.

I'd be seriously thinking about changing the support bearing in the diff to.

That was a wicked wobble.

GrumpyGel said:

I'd be seriously thinking about changing the support bearing in the diff to.

That was a wicked wobble.

Click to expand...

Support bearing? Only thing I can find is carrier bearings for the prop shaft but they also new with the diff mounts

I think they are TZZ100160 in this diagram. Possibly also known as TZZ100170, maybe also superseded by summat else...

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/differential-11918-c.asp

GrumpyGel said:

I think they are TZZ100160 in this diagram. Possibly also known as TZZ100170, maybe also superseded by summat else...

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/differential-11918-c.asp

View attachment 297739

Click to expand...

It's funny your saying this because when I bought the freelander it had a couple of parts in the boot, one of which is large bearing that looks similar... I thought it was a wheel bearing but all the wheels are fine so that kind of makes sense now. While the shaft is getting changed it makes sense to change both oil seals and bearing all together.

Can't thank yous all enough for the recommendations because I would have just fitted the shaft and topped up the oil.

I dunno if that bearing should be replaced as a precaution. Others more knowledgeable may give advice.

I'm going on the basis that it will have taken a hammering and you don't want it to ruin your new driveshaft.

Dunno if it can be pulled from the diff - its likely that the diff would need dismantling to get at it.