Disco Tray back build

Last night I designed the bumper and bash plate mount.


Then this morning I drew it out on some card to test fit and to use as a template.

after a test fit of the bracket template I found it dropped a lil low and not back as far as I would have liked.. so I re did the template with the modifications and also shaped the front angled part to accept the bash plate from my old setup.

The pulley for the alternator has arrived and also the Aframe ball joint weld in insert.

I tried to get the A frame joint out at the weekend, but the only socket I had was a 32mm which if you have done one before you'l know is a bit too big.
The old man had a 1" 1/4 socket but it wouldn't get in there as it has a rather square profile, so that was no good.

Ended up ordering a 30mm ring spanner from ebay, along with a CB aerial for Feb.


P.S. Cats were not included in the sale!

Tried for an hour to get the aframe ball joint out..
mixtured of whacking the end of the thread to break it loose and ramming a 2" ring spanner between the joint and axle while whacking it in or jumping on the end of a bar on the end of the spanner (bout 3ft long in total)

Still wont budge! Any tips on how to.remove it?

Put some heat on it them hit it with a lump hammer

Wizzywill said:

Put some heat on it them hit it with a lump hammer

Click to expand...

I did think about that, but all my pipes run a few inches from it

Think I might have to resort to that.

Cheers

Cold chisel the nut off.then hit bolt n itl pop out the top of axle.

Hit the housing. Add long bar while hitting housing

P.s have you done the swr on it cb??

haigy said:

Cold chisel the nut off.then hit bolt n itl pop out the top of axle.

Click to expand...

I got the nut off ok, its the joint itself. I did try that a bit, but I'll give it another bash

jai_landrover said:

Hit the housing. Add long bar while hitting housing

Click to expand...

I'll give that a try too.

jai_landrover said:

P.s have you done the swr on it cb??

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Not yet, I plan to do it once I built the bumper as the front end is missing all the lights and I don't think the plod would be to happy.
Plus I've yet to wire it up, awaiting a mount for it.

Turns out my old man has/had one, so he's going to see if he can dig it out.
And a mate at work used to be into CB before they made FM legal or something like that. 81?
He said he has one somewhere also. Who knew CB was so popular

Took the transfer box apart to see what its like inside, Please comment.
The only thing I could see wasn't to great is the smaller gear has a fair bit of pitting, Is that going to cause any issues as its below the surface so shouldn't cause any more wear?

*removed loads of pics of the box

Looks like input gear has eaten gearbox output shaft as not cross drilled and the rest isn't particularly nice rust wise

I thought the teeth looked decent.. but I've no idea what it should look like tbh.
I might end up just using the diff to rebuild mine as thats warn if the rest is no good..

I have a cross drilled gear here only done 1k miles since strip down was from a 1.4:1 i think

Mine was similar inside regards wear on diff lock dog teeth but otherwise probably better than what you have there

Overall she's a low tech beast that frankly could tolerate a lot of slop, if you're not so fussed I wouldn't be either!

Ashcroft ATB would fit very nicely in there you know

Was talking about the Ashcroft ATB and at £600 its not the most expensive however what advantage does it have..............................................

I'd prefer to be able to lock it manually and put up with it being a weaker unit that can break if mistreated

jai_landrover said:

Was talking about the Ashcroft ATB and at £600 its not the most expensive however what advantage does it have..............................................

I'd prefer to be able to lock it manually and put up with it being a weaker unit that can break if mistreated

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It would be handy for situations where you had partial grip and didn't want to lock the diff

Arguably it's one of those things that any performance land rover should have fitted, but for off road vehicles it's simply unlocked on road locked off road so negates the use of the ATB

I was thinking it would come into it's own driving snowy roads etc in winter, it would direct the power for you without needing the forced loss of grip at speed that the locked stock diff causes

I say this because of course locking any differential induces a forced wheel slip during cornering thus leading to a potential loss of control at pace


The best performance land rover would have ATB diffs in both axles and transfer case.

Dedicated off road vehicles need locking diffs however.

Still prefer to be able to lock and unlock manually as and when I have done for 10 years at speeds up to 60 mph on many occasions for long distances.

If you have partial grip you should lock the diff simples! Tyres will give we all run stupid offroad tyre tyres so they will give. control of vehicle at speed with difflock engaged on snow ice etc is a really solid feel.