Defender TD5 Problems

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rob121

New Member
Posts
7
Location
Ashford, Kent
Hi There,

I have a Defender TD5 90 03.
For the last year or so i've had a problem with power lag when its first started. Basically you had to weight 30seconds to let it warm up before pulling away then it was fine.
I did read on here about disconnecting the MAF to see if that helps which it didnt.

Today whilst driving back from work I've suddenly got a lot of vibration in the gear stick, especially at high revs, lots of black smoke and the engine is idling at a very high speed.

I spoke to barretts who recommend changing the injectors.

I mentioned ive had the MAF disconnected for 6 months + and hes now told me that its probably caused damage to the injectors?!

Does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem could be or where to start?

Thanks for your time,


Rob
 
it wouldnt hurt the injectors ,but why would you run without maf connected,black smoke is excess fuel or reduced air ,excess fuel would be injector
 
it wouldnt hurt the injectors ,but why would you run without maf connected,black smoke is excess fuel or reduced air ,excess fuel would be injector

Thanks for your reply.

I only ran it without as barratts recommended disconnecting to stop the initial power loss on start up. My own fault for not reconnecting. I just assumed as they had said to disconnect it, that it wasn't going to hurt.

Now after looking at the price of injectors I can see its definately going to hurt!

Is there anyway of checking to see if it is the injectors before I bite the bullet?

Rob
 
Thanks for your reply.

I only ran it without as barratts recommended disconnecting to stop the initial power loss on start up. My own fault for not reconnecting. I just assumed as they had said to disconnect it, that it wasn't going to hurt.

Now after looking at the price of injectors I can see its definately going to hurt!

Is there anyway of checking to see if it is the injectors before I bite the bullet?

Rob

have you had the ecu faults read, could be a clue there, the diagnostic can even check cylinder balance giving an insight as to how the injectors are performing
 
Hi There,

I have a Defender TD5 90 03.
For the last year or so i've had a problem with power lag when its first started. Basically you had to weight 30seconds to let it warm up before pulling away then it was fine.
I did read on here about disconnecting the MAF to see if that helps which it didnt.

Today whilst driving back from work I've suddenly got a lot of vibration in the gear stick, especially at high revs, lots of black smoke and the engine is idling at a very high speed.

I spoke to barretts who recommend changing the injectors.

I mentioned ive had the MAF disconnected for 6 months + and hes now told me that its probably caused damage to the injectors?!

Does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem could be or where to start?

Thanks for your time,


Rob

You talking 30 seconds on a cold start first time in the day?
 
Thanks for your reply.

I only ran it without as barratts recommended disconnecting to stop the initial power loss on start up. My own fault for not reconnecting. I just assumed as they had said to disconnect it, that it wasn't going to hurt.

Now after looking at the price of injectors I can see its definately going to hurt!

Is there anyway of checking to see if it is the injectors before I bite the bullet?

Rob

i may have a set of used ones
 
Thanks for the help, have to say forums like this are a god send!

I am going to see if I can find someone local to me (Ashford Kent) who can read the codes. If not I will have to pay dreaded barretts prices!

Would oil in the injector wiring loom be causing this? I only ask as looking arond the web a few people that had similiar problems, vibration, black smoke etc found the problem was the loom.

Rob
 
I don't know anything about barratts, but if they are telling you all that crap, then I would suggest you find another service garage.
 
certainly cause rough running ,has the injector loom plug got oil in it

Just checked inside the red ecu plug and also the injector plug on the underside of the rocker cover and both are oil free. The injector plug had some oil on the black case around the outside but nothing in the terminals.

Could there be anywhere inside the rocker cover where the oil has affected the wiring?
 
what youve checked is usually where problem is ,put your location up maybe some one local can check codes and read data for you


Location changed! If anyone is local and could help with reading the codes, then I would be really grateful.

Is there anywhere under the rocker cover where oil can affect the wiring?

Rob
 
you could try cleaning the map sensor located on the inlet manifold, i think 2 8 or 10mm bolts hold it in place, once bolts are out gentle wiggle it free and if its caked in black oily soot, give it a spray with electrical contact cleaner,
 
you could try cleaning the map sensor located on the inlet manifold, i think 2 8 or 10mm bolts hold it in place, once bolts are out gentle wiggle it free and if its caked in black oily soot, give it a spray with electrical contact cleaner,


Just cleaned the map sensor, was covered in black oily soot. Started it up and still playing up.

Will it take a while for the ecu to register or should it be instant?

Rob
 
Mines doing the same thing. Regardless of cold or warm no revs for about 15 - 30 seconds. Then is fine

Clean MAF
Clean MAP
De-EGR
Clean Injector Harness
No Oil in ECU Loom
All pipes are leak free and tight as far as I can tell.
Hawkeye read many faults (wrote them down) cleared drove about for 20 mins at varying speeds and inclines came back Hawkeye read no new faults.
 
Mines doing the same thing. Regardless of cold or warm no revs for about 15 - 30 seconds. Then is fine

Clean MAF
Clean MAP
De-EGR
Clean Injector Harness
No Oil in ECU Loom
All pipes are leak free and tight as far as I can tell.
Hawkeye read many faults (wrote them down) cleared drove about for 20 mins at varying speeds and inclines came back Hawkeye read no new faults.

Mine's a bit like this. I just assumed to was a safety feature to stop you over-revving a cold engine. Often, once I've driven a few yards up our hill there's a sudden leap forward and the engine becomes a lot more responsive.
 
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