Defender Td5 - Egr Removal ( Doubt Many Have)

I am about to install the EGR removal kit i bought from paddock spares, my Defender is post 2002 therefore i have seen lots of posts on forums (TD5 Alive – EGR BYPASS KIT) but once more i would like if someone can confirm my doubt.

The classic part that all agree upon for a post 2002 TD5 – LH drive:

1- (Right side) Remove flexible metal hose that secures the Exhaust manifold to the EGR cooling (Heat exchanger) and blank both with plates.
2- (Left side) Remove flexible metal hose that secures the EGR cooling (Heat exchanger) to EGR valve and blank EGR cooling with plate.
3- (Left side) It is IMPERATIVE to disconnect the blue vacuum hoses (rubber elbows) from EGR valve and BLANK them off securely (Use Rivet Head or self tapping screw) or else brake assistance could be severely compromised.
4- (Left side) Remove EGR Valve attached to inlet manifold.
5- (Left side) Loosen the Jubilee clip to release the intercooler air intake hose to the EGR valve.
6- (Left side) Connect the REPLACEMENT piece to the inlet manifold and the intercooler outlet via using the same intercooler air intake hose.

Now comes for me the confusing part and I think many could:

Some forums recommend to disconnect 2 electrical connectors (only to unplug the 2 electrical connectors) from EGR modulator (Green and Black plugs on EGR modulators which are located on the left hand inner wing) and finally leave all vacuum pipes attached to the modulator and brake servo pipe.

Some others recommend no to unplug or disconnect these 2 electrical connectors (Black & Green) not to disturb the electronics and ECU as essentially you have already eliminated the mechanical part by removing the EGR.

P.S. Some enthusiasts remove the whole setup I don’t wish to do that because maybe I could need to connect it again.

I hope to receive practical information from enthusiasts that already did this and what they recommend?

i was about to start the replacement tonight

Che

Make sure that your Allen keys are on the money and make sure you use the correct size the manifold bolts can be stroppy about coming out and if you round one or break one you are in for a long evening.

I removed the vacuum connections and solenoids completely and also patched the vacuum system direct to the servo eliminating the need for plugging pipes etc. and also since I don't need it for the Turbo wastegate (I have a VGT turbo).

The solenoid connector plugs I put in a polythene back and sealed them up with a tie wrap, then hid them away under the expansion tank. I just don't like lots of non functioning / unused items floating around that have a potential to cause trouble.

The recommendations for blanking the vacuum tubes are poor - a self tapping screw alone is not enough and could damage the connector, a rivet could still leak - for the doubters who think that 1 atmosphere of pressure isn't a hazard check this link out >> Failure to Vent a tank - you have any leaks in a vacuum system air pressure will find them.

I simply bought some new silicone pipework to fit between the vacuum pump and servo so there is no possibility of a leak whether the solenoids are connected or not.

I only have a single blanking plate on the end of the manifold which I sealed up with exhaust jointing putty (not exhaust repair paste). All EGR pipework etc is gone, although mine is an EU3 is did not have the EGR 'cooling' fitted.

Although I removed everything it is still on a shelf in the garage i.e. vacuum pipes, solenoids, EGR valve and associated gubbins but it is unlikely to ever get fitted again, but I'll keep it just in case I'm 'forced', since it took me a day to clean up the crap in the induction system, clearly caused by exhaust gas.

Was it worthwhile ? I think so, was there a measurable difference is debateable since I did a de-cat and 'tune' at the same time so I couldn't say what the EGR alone gained.

If you unplug the electrical cables from the modulators (on the wing) the ECU can not open and close them and you can leave the vacuum pipes attached.

If you leave the modulator electrical cables connected you must physically plug the vacuum pipes otherwise you may loose braking assistance when they are opened to air by the modulator.

The downside of disconnecting the cables without removing or sealing up the connectors is the subsequent corrosion of the connectors that are no longer protected from the elements. The downside of leaving them connected is the potential for them to get opened with plugs or pipes sucking air for whatever reason.

If leaving the solenoids present I'd disconnect and find a way to seal the exposed connectors and plugs in a reversable manner. When I initially disconnected I used a couple of drill bits - 3.5mm I think - I only removed everything post turbo install.

I wrapped the connectors in self amalgamating rubber tape then tucked them up and out of the way. If I ever need to use them (highly unlikely) I'll cut the tape off and be good to go.

Thanx Guys for your input....appreciate it!!!

here it goes

Che Blog : We Drive To Africa – (Morocco Easter 2013)

Che

Good read - took me a day to get rid of all that s**t from the intake manifold. Take it you decided not to ..

Any ideas Ben how to get to end of the inlet manifold, i tried but could not reach and was thinikin i could drop something in the inlet...


That was a lot of Sh**t coming out

I took the manifold off and used a combination of oven cleaner and alloy wheel cleaner (removed the MAP sensor of course).

Used some brushes that I use for cleaning out oil galleries.

Gallery Brushes

I took the manifold and put it in our old electric oven in the garden to bake for an hour at 250c. Dont do this in doors though as it tends to smoke a tad and the Doris will get the hump. Turns the gunk to ash and it brushes out easily once cooled down. Dont worry it wont melt the manifold as ally melts at something like 600c.

Before anyone asks the oven was in the garden because I was fitting a new kitchen and a new oven.