Cunifer Brake Pipes - Anyone created these or know someone who can?

My girl failed her mot today on corroded brake pipes and upon scanning the web, saw detail about pipes being made from cunifer. Not being that "technically" minded, anyone know of anyone that can create some brake pipes? Look forward to responses

Madtoownone said:

My girl failed her mot today on corroded brake pipes and upon scanning the web, saw detail about pipes being made from cunifer. Not being that "technically" minded, anyone know of anyone that can create some brake pipes? Look forward to responses

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Most auto factors will knock up some pipes for you... or you can order pre-formed from many LR suppliers or even the Bay of E ...

I used copper pipe and made my own. Easier than I thought. Although you need to get a flaring tool.

"Cunifer" is the name given to an alloy of copper, nickel and iron. It's often used for brake lines, and sometimes fuel lines because it's almost totally corrosion proof and almost as easy to work with as steel lines.
I would advise you to use a proper kit of tools if you intend to make your own, especially when making some tighter bends. Without a correct sized pipe bender there is a risk that the bend can collapse.
Many brake pipe tool kits will include a flaring tool and pipe bender.

brian47 said:

"Cunifer" is the name given to an alloy of copper, nickel and iron. It's often used for brake lines, and sometimes fuel lines because it's almost totally corrosion proof and almost as easy to work with as steel lines.
I would advise you to use a proper kit of tools if you intend to make your own, especially when making some tighter bends. Without a correct sized pipe bender there is a risk that the bend can collapse.
Many brake pipe tool kits will include a flaring tool and pipe bender.

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That's why I want to install "once" and not have to concern myself with them again, although, not of an "engineering mindset", probably not a job I would undertake myself what with it being the most crucial part of the wagon. Hence if anyone knows of anyone who has competantly done this, would be glad to hear from them.

I think @KISSMYAURA did his in kunifer

Cheers for that, will drop him a line and see what he says.

1988smithy said:

I think @KISSMYAURA did his in kunifer

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also found a company in Buckingham that create full sets for a multitude of Landys, so have emailed to see what they have to say as the L322 is not listed. Other Landys are, and the full set is about £140. I don't know if this is good or bad pricewise, but if it means the pipes are good for life, figure worthwhile

1988smithy said:

I think @KISSMYAURA did his in kunifer

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I made a replacement for the long pipe which went to the rear axle on the 90 (seized/corroded fittings ruined the old one). Just bought a flaring tool, pipe and fittings; make sure you get the right thread. I just used the old pipe as a template for the bends. Managed to get the bends done without kinking the pipe but a mini bender would have made life easier.
Best to have a play with some offcuts to get the end flare right before doing it on the real piece.

cupro nickel (kunifer cunifer etc) is the way to go, stiffer stronger, less prone to corrosion.
foget stainless steel its a royal PIA to bend has zero give, ok when making up tubes but no bueno when you need that knats cock bend to get the union seated onto the caliper!
with kunifer take yer time when making flares slow n steady n firm, its stiffer

thanks for the reply. was that the first time you'd done anything like that or are you quite competant in the mechanic area? Bit daunting for me as it's suck a crucial part of the car. How long did it take you to do?

KISSMYAURA said:

cupro nickel (kunifer cunifer etc) is the way to go, stiffer stronger, less prone to corrosion.
foget stainless steel its a royal PIA to bend has zero give, ok when making up tubes but no bueno when you need that knats cock bend to get the union seated onto the caliper!
with kunifer take yer time when making flares slow n steady n firm, its stiffer

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Madtoownone said:

thanks for the reply. was that the first time you'd done anything like that or are you quite competant in the mechanic area? Bit daunting for me as it's suck a crucial part of the car. How long did it take you to do?

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twas first time using cupro, (see my build thread)

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td5-90-project.301491/page-6

got fed up of using cheapo pipe flare kits so bought a decent one and some unions n some kunifer pipe.

each takes no time at all easy peasy, I also bought a smaller flarer for doing pipes on the vehicle etc.

small investment long term gain, I could replace all pipes and clutch pipes on a defender x 3 times now with the pipe and unions I now have,

thanks for that. Forgive my ignorance but have you replaced the pipes from the caliper all the way back to the brake cyclinder?? Have no idea on mechanics, can make a car look all shiny but want to get my hands on with this and learn as I go

KISSMYAURA said:

twas first time using cupro, (see my build thread)

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td5-90-project.301491/page-6

got fed up of using cheapo pipe flare kits so bought a decent one and some unions n some kunifer pipe.

each takes no time at all easy peasy, I also bought a smaller flarer for doing pipes on the vehicle etc.

small investment long term gain, I could replace all pipes and clutch pipes on a defender x 3 times now with the pipe and unions I now have,

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Madtoownone said:

thanks for that. Forgive my ignorance but have you replaced the pipes from the caliper all the way back to the brake cyclinder?? Have no idea on mechanics, can make a car look all shiny but want to get my hands on with this and learn as I go

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So on a defender they have in copper :

Front Both Sides : master cylinder > brake proportioning valve > wheel axle mount > Rubber flexi** > copper pipe on caliper*
Rear : master cylinder > brake proportioning valve > single copper pipe to> rubber flexi > three way junction > copper to each rear wheel

Fronts I replaced flexis** with stainless steel braided and front calliper pipes* each side with cupro nickle
Still to do :
Rear will be replacing all copper with cupro and flexi with stainless steel braided.
Fronts Master to Flexi and master to proportioning valvle and valve istself.
Also doing same (cupro and stainless flexi to clutch

All with 5.1 fluid,

Apart form the general corrosion when you try to change the flexis the copper just snaps cos its so rusted, so makes sesne to do it all at once, its really easy! Just get stuck in take yer time Oh yea and buy new bleed nippers, covers and a proper flarenut spanner!

See here:

https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/braking-systems

It really is easy, just spend the money on the right stuff, and have a play on the bench.

am I right in thinking the parts that the MOT failed on would be part 12 + 13 on this diagram or am I barking at the wrong treee??
https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/braking-systems/hoses-pipes/front-brakes_52918

KISSMYAURA said:

It really is easy, just spend the money on the right stuff, and have a play on the bench.

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Ideally, in time, to replace every single pipe would be the end result

Madtoownone said:

am I right in thinking the parts that the MOT failed on would be part 12 + 13 on this diagram or am I barking at the wrong treee??
https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/braking-systems/hoses-pipes/front-brakes_52918

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defender same as any cars brake pipes are steel originally but steel is difficult to work with, so its normal to do longer runs and straightish lengths in cunifer and shorter tighter bend pipes in copper,both are likely not to undo at the unions after a few years without twisting the pipe and so meaning new pipes making
its often easier and quite cheap to buy replacement steel pipes by part number

i would advise against full set kits, you need some wriggle room and if things dont go right first time you buggered!
If you make yer own, just reel off more pipe and make up another set, really depends how far you want to play, if you not into it,
Just get a garage to do it for you etc.

for most of us its a a simple equation

COST* + TIME + FEAR / ENJOYMENT FACTOR
-------------------------------------------------------------------
CAN I BE ARSED?

= DIY or Pay someone else to do it

*cost may be higher cos u have to buy the tool but you only buy it once!

Madtoownone said:

am I right in thinking the parts that the MOT failed on would be part 12 + 13 on this diagram or am I barking at the wrong treee??
https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/braking-systems/hoses-pipes/front-brakes_52918

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what was the fail wording?