Evening all, I am hoping someone on here can help me out!
The defender is a W-Reg TD5 110 (Year '00) Country Station Wagon. It failed its MOT a few weeks ago on a rusted brake line. I decided as the brakes looked original to replace the entire set thus I replaced
- Calipers Front and Rear
- Disks Front and Rear
- Pads and Assembly Hardware Front and Rear
Along the way, I replaced all of the brake lines leading from the Flexi-hoses that lead to the calipers with new copper ones as they were all corroded. As well as a section leading into the read T-Piece on the read axle.
Using an Eezi-Bleeder I initially bled the entire system until there were no bubbles following the Land Rover recommended order. This resulted in no pedal, I could pump and pump and I wouldn't get any pressure at all. Checked for leaks and can find nothing at all. Usually, with the Eezi-Bleed a leak is pretty obvious.
Rebled going from the furthermost wheel to the nearest wheel (the standard way of bleeding) and again no pedal. Thinking I had maybe damaged the Master cylinder using too high a tire pressure, and looking at where the reservoir meets the cylinder body, I order a new one and fitted that.
Rebled, and again no pedal. I originally followed the "five pumps with 10-second intervals" to bleed the master cylinder following land rovers' advice. Thinking that perhaps that was the issue I then removed the MC and bench-bled it ensuring I had oil in both sides of the cylinder with no air by looping each outward port back into the bottle. Fitted, rebled, and again pedal would go straight to the floor. You can pump like mad and you get a small bit of resistance but not much and it's right at the bottom of travel.
I have tried bleeding with a friend the old-fashioned way and getting clear brake fluid at every corner and have tried it with the EEzi bleed both ways still resulting in no pedal.
Other things to note, I have measured the distance on the back of the Master Cylinder and confirmed its the same depth and length as the old one, so I am pretty convinced that the Servo actuator rod is correctly adjusted.
I have clamped off all flexible lines leading from the caliper and I can pump and get a little bit of resistance.
I have read about the brake biasing valve causing issues but nothing like this. but its the only component I haven't swapped out
currently used about 10l of DOT4 chasing this down.
If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know as I am at my wit's end!
The defender is a W-Reg TD5 110 (Year '00) Country Station Wagon. It failed its MOT a few weeks ago on a rusted brake line. I decided as the brakes looked original to replace the entire set thus I replaced
- Calipers Front and Rear
- Disks Front and Rear
- Pads and Assembly Hardware Front and Rear
Along the way, I replaced all of the brake lines leading from the Flexi-hoses that lead to the calipers with new copper ones as they were all corroded. As well as a section leading into the read T-Piece on the read axle.
Using an Eezi-Bleeder I initially bled the entire system until there were no bubbles following the Land Rover recommended order. This resulted in no pedal, I could pump and pump and I wouldn't get any pressure at all. Checked for leaks and can find nothing at all. Usually, with the Eezi-Bleed a leak is pretty obvious.
Rebled going from the furthermost wheel to the nearest wheel (the standard way of bleeding) and again no pedal. Thinking I had maybe damaged the Master cylinder using too high a tire pressure, and looking at where the reservoir meets the cylinder body, I order a new one and fitted that.
Rebled, and again no pedal. I originally followed the "five pumps with 10-second intervals" to bleed the master cylinder following land rovers' advice. Thinking that perhaps that was the issue I then removed the MC and bench-bled it ensuring I had oil in both sides of the cylinder with no air by looping each outward port back into the bottle. Fitted, rebled, and again pedal would go straight to the floor. You can pump like mad and you get a small bit of resistance but not much and it's right at the bottom of travel.
I have tried bleeding with a friend the old-fashioned way and getting clear brake fluid at every corner and have tried it with the EEzi bleed both ways still resulting in no pedal.
Other things to note, I have measured the distance on the back of the Master Cylinder and confirmed its the same depth and length as the old one, so I am pretty convinced that the Servo actuator rod is correctly adjusted.
I have clamped off all flexible lines leading from the caliper and I can pump and get a little bit of resistance.
I have read about the brake biasing valve causing issues but nothing like this. but its the only component I haven't swapped out
currently used about 10l of DOT4 chasing this down.
If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know as I am at my wit's end!
