L322 Copper Brake lines (MOT FAIL)

So my motor (Range Rover, Vogue, 2002, TD6) has just failed it's MOT on corroded and pitted brake lines, So what i would like to know is what type of stuff i'm going to need to replace them, i'm going to do it myself cause i'm not paying a garage to rip me a new one. I know i can get a kit online to do the job @around £100 but being a jock i would like to do it a bit cheaper.
i'm going to need a few things but need a little help getting the right stuff.

Pipe bender
Flareing tool (Metric or Imperial)
copper pipe (Size?)
connectors (Size?)

If anyone can give me any advice on what to get, what sizes of pipe and connectors would be brilliant
Thanks

After a bit of reserch this is what i think i need, please correct if i'm wrong

Pipe Bending tool
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262330675043?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Mini Pipe Cutter
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172664506821?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Pipe Flaring kit
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131935212818?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Copper/Nickle Pipe and Connectors
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262484604434?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
DeBurring tool
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132157159888?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=431496856328&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I wouldn't get that flaring tool.
I ant do links cos I'm a pointer yard but the one I've, and others, have got for around £35 is awesome.
If no one comes up with a link for it I'll post a pic up in the morn.
You don't need a pipe bender, they don't do tight enough radiuses and the pipe is easy to form with your hands or bend it around a suitable 'thing' like a socket out of your tool kit.

Don't need the pipe cutter (it'll close up the pipe end meaning lots of fileing out)
Use a junior hacksaw.
For deburring I use a thin needle file.

Ignore.
Link didn't work.

Russell Hearn said:

So my motor (Range Rover, Vogue, 2002, TD6) has just failed it's MOT on corroded and pitted brake lines, So what i would like to know is what type of stuff i'm going to need to replace them, i'm going to do it myself cause i'm not paying a garage to rip me a new one. I know i can get a kit online to do the job @around £100 but being a jock i would like to do it a bit cheaper.
i'm going to need a few things but need a little help getting the right stuff.

Pipe bender
Flareing tool (Metric or Imperial)
copper pipe (Size?)
connectors (Size?)

If anyone can give me any advice on what to get, what sizes of pipe and connectors would be brilliant
Thanks

After a bit of reserch this is what i think i need, please correct if i'm wrong

Pipe Bending tool
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262330675043?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Mini Pipe Cutter
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172664506821?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Pipe Flaring kit
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131935212818?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Copper/Nickle Pipe and Connectors
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262484604434?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
DeBurring tool
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132157159888?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=431496856328&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Click to expand...

Pipe you need is Cupronickel not copper. There is no metric brake pipe it is 3/16". Maybe listed as 4.8 mm.

Don't use copper. You need the copper nickel alloy stuff. Be careful about the right kite-mark as loads of dodgy stuff out there.

361550230463
eBay item number for the awesome (for the price) flare tool.

Hacksaw and file are messy and unneccessary.
Me, I use a mini pipe cutter and let the 3/16" nipple do the reaming. Never had one of mine fail.

That cheap flaring kit actually works, only it leaves nasty annular grooves on the pipe, not an issue just unsightly, well worth the money for a scrooge

Personally I have the pro Sykes kit, which is nice.

I also buy the cheapest copper stuff from local factors, but cupro is the best.


All you need is the £10 nasty flaring kit.
Unions are available from Eurocarparts for c. £3.00 for 50 (males and females)
Bear in mind most coils of pipe are only 25 feet, I'd think you'd need 2.
Not forgetting brake fluid, and possibly 4 new flexi's.

If your a novice then find a garage and pay the man, it's a bit of a job. Are you competent enough to re-route the pipes that go under the tank and rot unseen? I don't think you are that man otherwise you wouldn't need to ask what stuff to get, no offence intended.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-pcs-Im...453069?hash=item23818e780d:g:gLQAAOSwDmBY44Xb
This is the one I have, same one just imperial.
No problems with it, does the job, just need to play with a bit of copper pipe until you get it right.
As above for the pipe and ends or ebay for everything.
Fingers for the bends and away you go.
Remember to buy brake fluid as well.

Pipe flare kit = £10
2 rolls of Cupronickel pipe and unions = £40
Pipe cutter = £3.00
Fluid = £8
Total = £61

Do you have the correct brake union spanner? Another £10er.
Have you bled brakes before?
Are you able to confidently make a new route for the rear pipes so as to bypass the originals that are under the fuel tank?

I've renewed pipes hundreds of times and whilst it's simple if you know how it can be a PITA without access to a hoist or ramp.

Do yourself a favour, pay someone to do it for you.

myfirstl322 said:

If your a novice then find a garage and pay the man, it's a bit of a job. Are you competent enough to re-route the pipes that go under the tank and rot unseen? I don't think you are that man otherwise you wouldn't need to ask what stuff to get, no offence intended.

Click to expand...

Fully agree with this part^, and about using the pipe cutter and let the die clean out the centre of the hole for that matter

If your having to do research and ask about what to get and even just things like not knowing you don't need a bender for 3/16 cupro pipe then pay someone else to do it

Careful there Grem, you fly with crows you get shot with the crows.

I can hear Wammers cocking his 12 bore

"Do yourself a favour, pay someone to do it for you."
You missed a bit - he is a jock.
Easy job, careful with the old pipe removal and just copy it, new pipe goes where old pipe was.

Thanks for all the advice folks, I'm competent enough to do it myself so I won't be paying a con man to do it for me when I know I can do it myself, only reason I was asking for advice is cause I don't want the stuff to come and it be wrong and then the car be off the road longer than it needs to as I need it for work, again thanks for all the info

Russell, I was just a tad concerned we might be encouraging a beginner, but now you've stated your competency then go for it, I'm all for beating robbing garages
As has been said, one pipe at a time

Ps. Did you receive a garage quote to replace them?

Also, a wee tip.......where the hard lines meet the flexi's, just cut hard line at the union (flare nut) and use a six sided socket to undo if they are stubborn and rusty, saves a lot of faff.
Secondly, check the spring retainers that hold flexi's to the hard mounts aren't rotten, nothing worse than finding they are fubar on a weekend when you can't get replacements.
Had that issue recently although it was a weekday so I managed to source them at dealer.

I've not had a quote but I'm guessing it'll be few quid which I can't really afford at the moment bit I would rather do it myself, I know it's done right then and I'll do just that mate, 1 at a time

Another tip before you start the job. Use a suitable length of wood (2x2 is good size around) to place against your seat and the brake pedal. Push the pedal down a couple of inches, until you start getting resistance. This closes off the openings from the brake fluid resevoir and saves billions of gallons of the stuff leaking out of the pipes (and of course, emptying the resevoir) all over your floor, head, eyes, etc....

I have a flaring tool kit I bought about 12 years or more ago which is awesome. I use a mini pipe cutter and go slowly round, tight, round, tight, round and so on. Cuts the pipes so beautifully I have never needed to de-burr the ends. Think I got it from B&Q for under a tenner. Goes up to 16mm or thereabout.

This is mine: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SYKES-PIC...hash=item53f30e293c:m:mCz4ZB0I7MF72qWka5ksguA

...but you need a vice to be able to use it. Or you could go for the hand held job which is ideal for out on the road repairs: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sykes-Pic...435774?hash=item35d48029be:g:JM8AAOSw-jhUFVIk

I think a decent pipe flaring kit is an investment. I had a loan of a cheapy from a mate and it was as good as useless. If you buy a good kit, you can start flaring pipes for a few quid

Thanks for the advice buddy, I'll do that with the break peddle, I was going to empty the whole system before I started the job, won't have to now, cheers

Russell Hearn said:

Thanks for the advice buddy, I'll do that with the break peddle, I was going to empty the whole system before I started the job, won't have to now, cheers

Click to expand...

You're welcome. However, it IS advisable to change the fluid every few years.... Allow the old fluid to run through, whilst topping up the resevoir. My advice was simply to prevent airlocks and having to pump the pedal umpteen times. Fluid should be changed approx each five years or so.

Flossie said:

361550230463
eBay item number for the awesome (for the price) flare tool.

Click to expand...

I agree... get one of these for cupro, copper/nickel, kunifer (or whatever it's being marketed as these days)... it's nearly as hard as steel pipe, and when I did the lines on my P38, I destroyed 2 cheap flare tools as they were only good for softer copper pipe (which isn't worth using as a replacement as others have said!)

The flare tool mentioned by Flossie does all the flares you need, and is small enough to do some of the unions once the pipe is installed in the vehicle and cut to length (again worked like that on my P38 - not seen the brake line runs on a L322 though..)

Marty