Crankcase Breather Mod TD4

tlo said:

no blue smoke just the slight misfire about 2.5 k I have some white smoke on start up but that's about it. While there is always the chance the new parts we get could be faulty I have just replaced my pvc there doesn't look like there is much in it to go wrong

Click to expand...

Were you able to buy just the rubber valve on its own. Thanks

I have been advised today mine is one of 3 things , the wiring harness , a dodgy injector , or the fuel pressure rail
Sensor. He also told me to put my bosh Maf sensor back in he said the td4 don't run well on aftermarket parts .
So do I leave it in to be fixed or change the parts starting with cheapest .

Changing parts 'for parts sake' is not the best way to move forward. Your Bosch MAF needs to be tested by yourself(if possible) to see if it's working within 'spec'. There are many threads on here regards that or you can search testing a MAF on youtube. You can get a general view using a digital multi meter. Another test is to start the car and (after removing part of the engine cover) unclip the MAF. Any improvement in performance (at least until 70 MPH) would indicate it is 'duff'. Your mechanic/technician is quite right to advise you change from an 'non Bosch/aftermarket MAF' as these can restrict perfomance and have been known to fail. Again the fuel pressure rail sensor can be tested, using a DMM but there are many threads about this subject too, again check them out, do the things they suggest and try those before replacing parts. I think when you mention 'the harness' this applies to the fuel sensor harness? That can corrode internally(despite looking okay). A resistance test may show this(continuity won't) so if it does have a high resistance this may indciate it needs replacing. Best of luck, If I have made any erroneous suggestions no doubt the 'LandyZone' 'Police' will let me know in no uncertain terms..... (They know who they are ;-)....)

What is drawing me towards harness , the problem only started after I had removed inlet manifold etc to
Replace glow plugs and fear I disturbed the loom ,

Mercmancdi said:

What is drawing me towards harness , the problem only started after I had removed inlet manifold etc to
Replace glow plugs and fear I disturbed the loom ,

Click to expand...

Hopefully if you check things over you'll find something very basic, can be easy to miss things when replacing etc. Regards the harness there is a replacement that isn't that expensive by the looks of it if it is damaged/corroded. The difficulty would be in diagnosing such an issue visually. It may be that manipulation of the harness may have a positive result or show that this is the case. They can corrode at the sensor connections IIRC but also internally so it may look okay but actually isn't. Best of luck with your 'spannering'....

Mercmancdi said:

Were you able to buy just the rubber valve on its own. Thanks

Click to expand...

Sorry for the late reply the only thing I changed was the crank case filter for the BMW part not the top part if you see what I mean, also my prob started when I replaced some parts ie egr valve and the crank case filter, makes you wonder . Last night I pulled up to some traffic lights and it just died no warning nothing ,started up again no probs but surprised me non the less

Strange thing I think I have more blow out of oil filler cap than before I changed to the plastic crankcase
Oil seperater. Now I am thinking I cleaned the rubber valve but did not renew it ,
Could this be my problem and can you buy those rubber valves on there own.
If so what would you ask for. Misfires at 2500 rpm .yet no fault codes showing .

Mercmancdi said:

Strange thing I think I have more blow out of oil filler cap than before I changed to the plastic crankcase
Oil seperater. Now I am thinking I cleaned the rubber valve but did not renew it ,
Could this be my problem and can you buy those rubber valves on there own.
If so what would you ask for. Misfires at 2500 rpm .yet no fault codes showing .

Click to expand...

Not sure about buying the valve seperately, sorry. Nodge is the 'oracle' regards 'bits and bobs' for Freelander 1's. I will do a quick search, might find something..

MollyNomad said:

Not sure about buying the valve seperately, sorry. Nodge is the 'oracle' regards 'bits and bobs' for Freelander 1's. I will do a quick search, might find something..

Click to expand...

Seems the valve comes within the assembly..there are several on 'fleabay' and don't seem overly expensive. My complete unit was 39.95 IIRC..

MollyNomad said:

Hopefully if you check things over you'll find something very basic, can be easy to miss things when replacing etc. Regards the harness there is a replacement that isn't that expensive by the looks of it if it is damaged/corroded. The difficulty would be in diagnosing such an issue visually. It may be that manipulation of the harness may have a positive result or show that this is the case. They can corrode at the sensor connections IIRC but also internally so it may look okay but actually isn't. Best of luck with your 'spannering'....

Click to expand...

I might need bit of luck lol. Can buy a injector harness off another td4 that's good so for sake of £10 quid might
try that as its only simple plug in , I can get full harness that runs glow plugs sensors etc it'not sure if it's all just plug in or I would go with that if I thought it was not hard to feed round engine ,

lest us know how you get on

Will do , going to pull engine covers off to see if it's easy to fit full engine harness as I have a joint wire at
the plug of my map sensor , I am hoping it's a case of plugging main sockets in then just following round
to sensors. As long as alls reachable without stripping major parts off to fit .
Any one out there know if it's simple enough to change engine harness ?.
Still concerned about the p v c valve , going to see if bmw sell it on its own as I read it should be changed
Every 50000 MLS or every 5 yrs , I have full service on this car and can't see anywhere when it
Was ever changed . Just wish fault code would come up or even light the mil .

my engine seems to miss fire at about 2.5k and I don't have the mil light on .....yet . I was told that if the light does not come on there will be no fault code stored I do wonder when the car stalled on me for no reason if it stored a code then

tlo said:

lest us know how you get on

Click to expand...

Sure , be the end of week before I get anything else done now as need a trailer axle repaired to get it out of garage
And get the landy back in .

tlo said:

my engine seems to miss fire at about 2.5k and I don't have the mil light on .....yet . I was told that if the light does not come on there will be no fault code stored I do wonder when the car stalled on me for no reason if it stored a code then

Click to expand...

Mine doesn't stall , but misfires and smokes at 2500 rpm and it is putting no codes up and no mil lit .
When you leave it in a garage with no fault code the hourly rate for searching for a fault can soon get
Quite expensive, that's why I am trying cheap fixes first .
Bit of a gamble , but I know of ones who have have been charged up to 6 hrs labour before the fault
was found then there the part or parts to pay for bringing the bill to around £400 to replace a broken wire or
Corroded plug or bad connection .

Regards engine codes a generic OBDII reader may not be able to pick up the DTC's that are stored within the system, folks on here tend to use Landrover specific code readers to ensure that any codes are viewable. Certainly my code reader doesn't work as it should. Regards the 'engine harness' swap I would baulk at such a drastic measure...but changing the injector harness itself(and testing the fuel sensor it connects to) is a reasonable way to go. Usually faults on cars are simple and require a methodical approach. If there is evidence of serious damage of tampering/buffoonery of the complete engine harness by an over entusiastic previous owner/mechanic then maybe checking the harness thoroughly before replacement would be the way to go but these things are generally very durable. You may find your PCV oil seperator isn't seated correctly(think that what you have IIRC?) there should be an O ring in there somewhere to ensure a good fit/seal. Regards service history I would doubt that it would have been mentioned in it unless you find a receipt for purchase and fitting. Think before you jump in on the major stuff. Work methodically and systematically. It can begin to spin out of control when you start to be 'overwhelmed' with information and new 'possible' causes. Right down a list of 'checks and tests' to do and attack those first otherwise you will end up chasing the rabbit and spending money and time on a unwinable 'hunt' for your problem. Best of luck.

Landrover guy was out put code reader on ! 5 faulty sensors so looks like broken circuit in the engine harness .

Mercmancdi said:

Landrover guy was out put code reader on ! 5 faulty sensors so looks like broken circuit in the engine harness .

Click to expand...

Just be aware that having 'faulty sensors' or codes that dictate that may just ba another sensor going awry. The technician needs to eliminate each sensor as faulty by testing whether they are working themselves(usually using live data/oscillioscope). Also checking for 12V supply to each before condemning a harness or part of one. Checking sensors doesn't take a great deal of time(for a professional) Fault codes don't tell you what to fix only where to look. If he can he should delete the codes then start the vehicle and then read the codes again, this will clear historical codes and erroneous information and any that reoccur are the 'real' DTC's. Hope all goes well..

Yes thanks but sensors themselves seem to be ok and considering 3 were new it appears to be a break but he can't locate it without cutting into various points which would be more costly as I have a good harness which a guy give me for petrol money so going to put in on when I get a chance then he's going to reread the codes.
Interesting to see what happens.

Swapping the harness is an hour's work tops. I would suspect it's a ground connection that's not solid to ground.