Crankcase Breather Mod TD4

You are probably right I found a date 2001 on it ,def single wire but strange it was a 2 pin plug but only 1 pin in it. , mines 2006 also the wire for the map cable would be very short on the older loom ,

Mercmancdi said:

You are probably right I found a date 2001 on it ,def single wire but strange it was a 2 pin plug but only 1 pin in it. , mines 2006 also the wire for the map cable would be very short on the older loom ,

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I don't think the early harness is compatible with the later TD4. I'm sure the pinouts are different at the ECU.
It's best to find a harness from the correct year.

Just one thing , I know the oil seperater in crankcase housing has a rubber ring in large end should there be a small rubber ring where the small pipe rises from engine .
Ie two o rings .

Just to update , got complete new crankcase filter ( whole unit ) just used new standard crankcase filter took out oil seperater,and got all electrial connecters cleaned with fluid
All built up and started bit smokey but after a drive going like a bomb , drove for approx 15 MLS varied speeds 30-80 mph , still a blip at the 2500 rpm but 100 times better than it was ,,driving on you would find it hard to notice , heated up no smoke , but stationary when revving it's more noticeable at the 2500 point and smoke .
Would it be possible that even though the injector drip off was OK a injector could be putting too much fuel in at that 2500 revs bit . All sensors are showing as faults but that's just because they have all been out , so need to get the faults cleared then drive to see what shows up ..

These are readings from last night , shows no faults , i do t under stand live feed readings any one see a problem.

Your boosted air temperature sensor is all to cock.
It's showing 132.7°C which can't be correct.

You need to check the connection on the sensor and the wiring as it often breaks.

Arranged tomorrow to get heat gun and heat shrink to improve connection on them wires
Put back on to live reading , got this message.
DTS s ( 1 ) UNKNOWN FAULT CODE. 1110.
Also just seen the wire is cable tied to water hose near connection , this migh be giving false reading cut the wire free and running new live feed .
Do you know what the fault 1110 . From what I see its that sensor , will clean my old one and try it back in. The joys of the motoring bug. Lol.

Nearly out of fuel , would it be worth while putting injected cleaner in and letting it tick over for a while ,
As its low in fuel could go for a strong mix. ..Might it help the misfire at 2500 rpm or a waste of money.
If so what's most effective injector cleaner , please. Or would it take long long time to work.

Mercmancdi said:

Nearly out of fuel , would it be worth while putting injected cleaner in and letting it tick over for a while ,
As its low in fuel could go for a strong mix. ..Might it help the misfire at 2500 rpm or a waste of money.
If so what's most effective injector cleaner , please. Or would it take long long time to work.

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I use Comma Diesel Magic once a month. It keeps my injectors clean and fueling correctly. My MOT on Friday showed a smoke count of 7 PPM, which surprised my MOT tester.

Changed sensor checked wires , should boost sensor be reading 0.0mV as in photo ? Even if boost temperature reading is wrong would this be a cause for misfire at the 2500 rpm. These reading are done with car at temperature
, should I try a reading from cold should the boost temperature then read a colder reading if all was as it should be.

Checked wires changed sensor , today's readings. Should the boost air temperature sensor be reading 0.0mV

Is your misfire when driving under load or only when holding the revs at 2.5K off load? If it's off load then many people have been looking into it for years. I've given up looking at my 2K misfire.

Nodge68 said:

Your boosted air temperature sensor is all to cock.
It's showing 132.7°C which can't be correct.

You need to check the connection on the sensor and the wiring as it often breaks.

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This is the sensor just in front of dip stick ok , does it matter if sensor is in bottom of that plastic hose or in the top etc as it can be set any position by turning the pipe it screws into. .

Mercmancdi said:

This is the sensor just in front of dip stick ok , does it matter if sensor is in bottom of that plastic hose or in the top etc as it can be set any position by turning the pipe it screws into. .

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That sensor can be at any orientation. It makes no difference to how it works.

Misfire is not noticeable while driving , just sitting parked and reving gently up then at the 2500 it kicks in , but if you rev quickly it just pushs through the it . The cars driving great ,
Is that high temp reading on the boost sensor that important in the meantime anyhow .

Mercmancdi said:

Misfire is not noticeable while driving , just sitting parked and reving gently up then at the 2500 it kicks in , but if you rev quickly it just pushs through the it . The cars driving great ,
Is that high temp reading on the boost sensor that important in the meantime anyhow .

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That's the same as mine and 100s of others. It's not worth wasting time trying to find it. I tried a couple of years ago and gave up. It doesn't affect the way the car drives, so I decided to leave it as it was. Apparently of the EGR blank is replaced be a working EGR valve, the misfire will go. I suspect it's a mapping error, created by deleting the EGR valve.