Confused fitting suspension

right... after waxoyling the chassi now im fitting the new suspension, however, I'm a bit confused to where the bushes go!

the pic below shows what I have, one front damper, 4 rubber bushes and 4 metal cups..

now, the way i think this should be is:

one rubber and 2 metal cups on top of the turret, 1 rubber and 2 metal cups below the top of the turret
and
one rubber and 2 metal cups on top of the axle bracket and 1 rubber and 2 metal cups below the bracket?

am I missing parts? or do I have to use some of the old ones?

You're missing some cups / washers.

Use some old ones.

I thought I was! bummer, should have checked it when it arrive and called the company to send me more.

btw, I looked at your how to you did back in 2008, do you know what is the torque on the top nut?

also found out that hi-lift and dropping the axle as much as the brake hose allows is not enough to fit the new springs! Need spring compressors!

My +2" springs went in without compressors - just eased them in with a pry bar.
I can't remember the torque - I looked it up in RAVE at the time.

[JP];1640403 said:

I thought I was! bummer, should have checked it when it arrive and called the company to send me more.

btw, I looked at your how to you did back in 2008, do you know what is the torque on the top nut?

also found out that hi-lift and dropping the axle as much as the brake hose allows is not enough to fit the new springs! Need spring compressors!

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They must be some mahousive springs!
If you don't have a spring compressor, I found a couple of small-ish ratchet straps worked well when fitting my Terrafirma +2 kit.

cant believe you need torque for fitting shockers ,

jamesmartin said:

cant believe you need torque for fitting shockers ,

Click to expand...

Won't even be able to get torque wrench on lower front shock mount

Trewey said:

My +2" springs went in without compressors - just eased them in with a pry bar.
I can't remember the torque - I looked it up in RAVE at the time.

Click to expand...

really? I had a bit of trouble getting the old ones out...the brake hose couldnt go any further, so as the new ones are bigger I thought would be even harder...

I have spring compressors now though...

Langers said:

Won't even be able to get torque wrench on lower front shock mount

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exactly.. that's why I asked the torque setting for the top nut! you nut

right, I'll just tighten them up then....
I tend to use my torque wrench of "yeh, that should do it", but as its the suspension I thought doing it properly

shocker has unthreaded part to the right length to squash bush correctly all you have to do is get it tight

ok, will do that, cheers James

hopefully will finish it tomorrow!

just out of curiosity...on the front axle, the nuts holding the spring plate, are they welded to the bracket?

asking this as I checked on my mate 110, but its a 59 plate, and they aint, but on mine they are welded, what happened was one of the bolts snapped and I had to drill it out and retap.... but on the suspension kit I bought, it comes with spring retainers and comes with bolts and nuts

just wondering really, as it was another delay to add to the job, the rain didnt help either!

I used the torque wrench on the top nut so that I could see / measure how much the bushes were compressed, then did the bottom nut up till they looked / measured the same.

here's what happened, as you can see, the nuts are welded to the bottom of the bracket, just wondering if this is standard or someone welded the nuts

they are supposed to be captive but are often replaced ,you will find that they chisel off easily as all lr captive nuts do if you shear a bolt

[JP];1640536 said:

here's what happened, as you can see, the nuts are welded to the bottom of the bracket, just wondering if this is standard or someone welded the nuts

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just drill them out and fit longer bolts

yeh, ive sorted it already, was just curious to know if it was standard or the previous owner couldnt be bothered to hold the bottom nut with a spanner lol

I've managed to drill a pilot hole and then go up in size, then just knocked the sides in to reveal the nut thread

Note tho these look like Procomp shocks and the new ones come without the metal cups that locate into the spring plate bottom and turret top because the bushes are shaped to do this ommitting the metal washers. Not that I'm a fan of this but thats how my new ones came and how std disco cheapo £9 shocks come now days from Paddocks I guess its far cheaper to produce than seperate metal washers.

jai_landrover said:

Note tho these look like Procomp shocks and the new ones come without the metal cups that locate into the spring plate bottom and turret top because the bushes are shaped to do this ommitting the metal washers. Not that I'm a fan of this but thats how my new ones came and how std disco cheapo £9 shocks come now days from Paddocks I guess its far cheaper to produce than seperate metal washers.

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Hi Jai, yes they are procomps! I was going to go for tuffbacks, but I dont even do 500 miles per year, so couldnt really justify the extra spend, the pro comps will do nicely for now.... at £238 the whole thing is not a bad price.

So, what do you advise? just mount without the metal cups? or use the old ones where required?

The washers you have there are completly wrong for locating in the turret and spring retainer and will cause it to knock and wear as they should be a good fit and they are not. You can see that the bushes have a taper on one side of them these tapers face each other and go either side of the metal mounts in retainer and turret they act to centralize and isolate the pin from contacting with the metal mounts.

im even more confused now! lol

so the new washers are wrong to locate in the turret and spring retainer, is that what you are saying? so should i just use the old ones that were there?

Remember that on the rear when you refit the top mount the domed washer is domed face inward facing the chassis and the flat side facing outward and the nut goes against the flat side. This will stop the well know "faulty eyes breaking" because the shock has to twist and fitting it it the otherway limits flex of the shock and limits articulation and ends up putting too much stress on the eye loop and making it fail. Many supposidly mechanics we see at comps do such things and its quite funny when they moan about poor quality when its their feck up.