Clutch Master Cylinder rod adjustment

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jackmac

New Member
Posts
267
Have recently done an engine swap on my 90, at the same time changed out both the master and slave clutch cylinders as they were leaking. Tomorrow I will finally get round to bleeding the clutch, provided everything else works. On a deadline of having everything done by Saturday, so trying to get things right the first time!

I'm a bit confused by the manual and worried I've got the adjustment wrong. I understand there should be 140mm vertical between bottom of the pedal and the floor (without mat), and that that is adjusted via the bolt on the back of the pedal box.
The bit I don't get is making sure there is 1.5mm free play between the push rod and the master cylinder piston. When I took the old cylinder out, the lock nuts were as far as they would go towards the master cylinder. I don't understand how to check for that 1.5mm play, and how to attain it?
Do I just loosen everything until I can move the push rod back and forth a bit? Am I right in thinking the further I move the locknuts from the cylinder, the closer the push rod will get to the piston and thus take up and play?
 
All you need ]is a little bit of wiggle on the pushrod, theres probably a setting, but all I do is make sure theres a knatts cock of free play, you adjust it with the nut nearest the cylinder, the front nut just locks it all into place, once happy with the setting get someone to press the pedal down, makes it much easier to tighten the lock nut
 
OK. I've bled it and have what feels like a good firm pedal with no air in the system. Didn't get round to adjusting the push rod though.

Tried to take out out for a quick spin, and I can't get it in gear. Clearly the clutch is not disengaging. Could the push rod adjustment cause this, and if not then what else?
 
I'm pretty sure I had the lock nuts as far along the push rod (away from master cylinder) as they would go :(
 
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