300 tdi Clutch Master Cyl Circlip removal

As per heading I need to fit new seal's to my clutch master cylinder - R380 box

After getting it out of the vehicle the cir-clip holes are so small that I dought a cir-clip removal pliers actually exists for that size

The circlip itself moves around in its groove easily

Any other tips from the experts out there

thks

Right so asked and answered

A paper clip through one hole and a bit of luck in getting it out

The old seals looked perfectly fine but the new ones argued a lot more to put on than the old ones did to take off

Will begin my fight with the pin and circlip on the clutch pedal tomorrow

hope it is the master and not the slave that was at fault

right now a rum for my work so far
today was shopping day so no meat in the fridge for dinner

If one has gone the other will follow shortly is the usual case so have slave handy.

tottot said:

If one has gone the other will follow shortly is the usual case so have slave handy.

Click to expand...

i replaced the slave about 8 years ago and it has been dripping for about a year or so

i suspect the master purely because the clutch bite point has been getting lower over time

slave is least easier to get to

have had the clutch fork mod done

am anxious as I need to buy food

In the past I've filed (or rather used a grinder) the points of circlip pliers to make them fit tiny holes. Is this not possible?

If the slave is dripping fluid? Then it's the slave that has the issue. you is.

Right

From this post

"Got the pin in,Easy peasy,took off clutch master cylender,pushed pedel down to floor,super glued the pin head to an 8 inch long piece of metal coat hanger,plenty room to put the master cylender in place,and manipulate the pin so it pushes back throu the pedal,same with retaining clip,glued it to some stiff wire,slid it in place,pushed it home with a long flat skrew driver.Took me ten minutes.Better than messing under dashboard."

If I was in the UK I would find this person - circa 2014 - and kiss you with tounge as well

8 seconds and pin in

tottot said:

If the slave is dripping fluid? Then it's the slave that has the issue. you is.

Click to expand...

When i push the clutch in the slave isnt leaking any,more hence my master theory

hope i am correct

With pressure from putting the clutch in it is likely the force used to release the clutch plate expands the slave seal enough so it no longer dribbles. When clutch released the seal relaxes again and dribble restarts. Get some new seals for the slave, simple job.

So done both master and slave seals
The old slave seal looked and felt a bit worn and there was some fluid in the dust cap
The pin connecting to the clutch fork feels solid and remains connected to the fork after taking out the slave

my haynes manual says my slave should have a circlip - well it doesn't and there is no evidence of a ring that it should

if i connect a rubber tube to the bleed screw and into a glass bottle
quarter turn lose and i let about 300 ml drip through like that
retighten and no clutch at all

tried the two man method and still no clutch at all
if i get the clutch pressed all the way down then open the bleed screw it isn't exactly squirting out - no rubber pipe attached for that test

going to leave it overnight as am knackered and see what it feels like in the morning

any ideas on this matter would be appreciated

So thought i would make friends with the Landy after eating a vegan meal - 2 hours

Clutch reservoir empty
Long stain down the bulkhead
pig puddle under the chassis rail far from the slave

Eish

Stain down bulkhead, where exactly?
To bleed clutch I fill reservoir, open bleed nipple and then give a couple of short [half distance] pumps on the pedal. After that wait until fluid runs from slave free of bubbles keeping the ress topped up.

So turns out the seal closest to the clutch pedal was on the wrong way round
Corrected that this morning and master is now in the freezer till tomorrow when I will fit and test

The stain was on the engine bay side of the firewall - and ran down till directly over the chassis rail and onto the floor

My model has rear aircon as well and the aircon pipes run up that some spot covered in black rubber cladding so didn't spot it till last night

Wrong way seal, thought it might be that, guess how I know.

i r going to get to the bottom of this no matter the consequences
master cylinder
so past logic doesn't count
for reference the front is where the pipe attaches to feed fluid to the slave

there has to be a one way valve between the reservoir and the body of the cylinder otherwise the fluid would rather go back to the reservoir than push the not small amount of force needed to push the clutch rod

the hole between the reservoir and the cylinder has to be between the two seals on the master cylinder

these are not statements of fact but rather my little brain

The return to the reservoir is in the master cylinder, not so much a one way valve but a feed return way that the moment the pedal is pushed down some is shut off. This is why it is important that there is a tad of free play for the master pushrod. If not fluid will be slow to return to reservoir or not get back at all.

this is for a discovery 1 300 tdi 97 model so a square reservoir

if someone has a master handy and can tell what it looks like in the bottom of the reservoir it would be much appreciated

i have a hole going straight through into the cylinder which would explain why I can't get pressure

So are you unable to bleed the system?

tottot said:

So are you unable to bleed the system?

Click to expand...

It will bleed - but as soon as pressure is needed to push the clutch fork the fluid takes the path of easiest resistance and in my case that is back into the reservoir

In that case something inside is not right.