Clutch Help Needed Plz L Series

Hi,

I’ve posted before with regard to my L Series I’m trying to keep on the road. Had a strange pedal noise and then clutch started to slip and burn a few weeks later.

So I have had the Clutch replaced by a mechanic, First time time he just replaced the clutch but it wouldn’t go into gear with the engine running work so he ordered another with the slave and master, this time it drives but the biting point it very low and the forward gears seems to squeak a bit. Reverse Crunches everytime and 1st is quite hard getting into gear, so still not right.

The parts were from eurocarparts (aftermarket parts) so he has suggested I should buy a genuine landrover clutch and he will come and fit it…

Any ideas anyone as I’m giving up hope

BFleck said:

So I have had the clutch and master and slave replaced by a mechanic, First time was just the clutch but it wouldn’t work so he ordered another with the slave and master again this time it drives but the biting point it very low and the forward gears seems to squeak a bit. Reverse Crunches and 1st is quite hard getting into gear ‍, so still not right.

The parts were from eurocarparts, he has suggested I buy a genuine landrover clutch and he will come and fit it…

Click to expand...

The hydraulics aren't pushing the release lever far enough to release the clutch correctly.

First check the slave bracket is 100% perfect, as cracking is common, and if cracked the bracket bends, rather than release the clutch.
Also was the release lever lubricated? Its common for the lever bushing to seize, overloading the slave bracket, resulting is cracking and the symptoms you have.

Cheap aftermarket hydraulic assemblies are known to be rubbish, so the issue could also be there.
Also it's important to work the air out of the new hydraulic components before fitting them, or they'll never work 100%

Agree with above that your issue is probably very simple.

Definitely lubricate the clutch release arm as it goes through the bell housing.

Advisable to hang the hydraulics, slave at bottom, for a while.

I'd replace the bracket holding the slave. The one on my L series fractured and the slave became loose. They're not expensive.

Reverse is always a bit dodgy to get into gear (on mine anyway and I think its a PG1 thing). Can not have revs over idle at all and clutch needs to be pressed to the floor. I fairly frequently crunch reverse. Never other gears though, they go in fine.

Nodge68 said:

The hydraulics aren't pushing the release lever far enough to release the clutch correctly.

First check the slave bracket is 100% perfect, as cracking is common, and if cracked the bracket bends, rather than release the clutch.
Also was the release lever lubricated? Its common for the lever bushing to seize, overloading the slave bracket, resulting is cracking and the symptoms you have.

Cheap aftermarket hydraulic assemblies are known to be rubbish, so the issue could also be there.
Also it's important to work the air out of the new hydraulic components before fitting them, or they'll never work 100%

Click to expand...

Hello

Many thx for the reply. I have just spoke to the mechanic and he mentioned he checked the braket and the hydraulics were OEM Parts, thier is a full video of him doing this work on my car below, the guy works really hard and would appreciate any feedback, as not sure to go to landrover and order the parts from thier and see if the landrover parts makes a difference.

The mechanic is with the car so is in a better position.

I would replace the slave bracket and oil the release arm before opening it up again.

I also had trouble locking the master to the bulkhead. Might be worth making sure its fitted ok. I'm not sure why I had trouble cos on the 500 and 1st attempt it simply slotted in easy as.

Possibly unrelated but a symptom I get on my L series when my lower engine tie rod is worn out is 1st gear getting really hard to go in and also reverse being a bit more crunchy than usual.

Thx for the replys, it seems to be going into gear now ok. So will keep an eye on it.

One more issue i have found i went to check the engine oil today and the dipstick pulled out (it was tight) and now it wont go back in only 2/3rds of the way feels like its hitting something at the bottom......... ive tried twisting etc when putting it in but its having none of it............. (Was Never a problem before i had the clutch done ?? do u think this may be related ?)

Dipstick tube has been nipped