Clutch gone darn it!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Flossie

Flossie

Well-Known Member
Posts
11,053
Location
Shropshire
Taking my lad to school this morning, just pulled off the drive 1st gear 2nd gear fine then crunched into 3rd with horrible clanky noises then couldn't get any gears with the engine running, fine with the engine stopped , clutch pedal feels normal but clutch isn't disengaging.:(
Limped back home in 2nd.
She is my only mode of transport!:mad:.
No where to work on her cause of the garage build but with a few hours of graft moving building stuff I should be able to get her on the concrete slab of my old garage , no walls or roof just the slab but at least it's flat and level, the drive where it's sat now is lumpy sharp hardcore.
Search function is down again but a quick Google seems to suggest I can move the box back enough on a trolley jack to replace the clutch complete with a new fork. I'm going to remove the tunnel and floor plates . Is it possible to slide the box back rather than remove it? I did that on a 109 many years ago, this is a disco 200 lt77.
Worth getting a 130 clutch?
 
Last edited:
If you removed the seatbox as well then you'd have tons of room. A engine hoist would be best to move the gearbox back and hold it steady also put a support under the stump to stop engine tipping back when you remove the gearbox.
 
Just got back from a mates with a borrowed engine crane so that will help. Plonker has lost all the bolts holding it together though so that's a pain and the nearest nut bolt place is miles away.
Can't easily remove the seat box because of all the electrical stuff I've got running into it. Hopeing that with the crane and the floor out it won't be too bad a job.
 
Flossie said:
Just got back from a mates with a borrowed engine crane so that will help. Plonker has lost all the bolts holding it together though so that's a pain and the nearest nut bolt place is miles away.
Can't easily remove the seat box because of all the electrical stuff I've got running into it. Hopeing that with the crane and the floor out it won't be too bad a job.
Click to expand...
with the center seat panel out with a crane its not a bad job,drivers side bolt of the 2 top bolts t/box to g/box is a good place to hang a chain
 
Flossie said:
Just got back from a mates with a borrowed engine crane so that will help. Plonker has lost all the bolts holding it together though so that's a pain and the nearest nut bolt place is miles away.
Can't easily remove the seat box because of all the electrical stuff I've got running into it. Hopeing that with the crane and the floor out it won't be too bad a job.
Click to expand...
You don't need to remove the seat-box. When I did mine I removed both the gear leaver selector units so I did not have to drop the box and could just slide it back. I also did it with an engine crane and some straps slung under the gear box and transfer box as the were what I had to hand at the time. but bolting a chain on as suggested above would be more secure.
 
Couldn't get a lift to the nut bolt place before they shut:(.
Bolts are all M16 from 120mm down to 80mm , 8 off in total.
Got some steel rod that is 16mm in my tat pile though so I'll knock up some pins instead:).
Cleared all or most of the stuff off the garage base now but needed to move the camper van before I push the Landy on to it but the battery is flat:rolleyes:.
 
dag019 said:
You don't need to remove the seat-box. When I did mine I removed both the gear leaver selector units so I did not have to drop the box and could just slide it back. I also did it with an engine crane and some straps slung under the gear box and transfer box as the were what I had to hand at the time. but bolting a chain on as suggested above would be more secure.
Click to expand...
Removing both levers sounds like a plan thanks.
 
Flossie said:
Removing both levers sounds like a plan thanks.
Click to expand...
once the floor and the tunnel is out it is just 8 bolts to remove the top selector housings (4 for each) then you should be bale to slide it under the seat box with minimal lowering. I cannot remember if you need to remove the handbrake or not to get it far enough back, I have a disc brake and from memory the caliper fouls on something so the back plate needs removing before sliding the boxes back.
 
Noted thanks.
Had a bit of a mare getting the Landy on to the slab, the campervan blocking the slab access still wouldn't turn over after a 3 HR boost charge so had to whip the battery off the tratter to jump the van before I could move it. Then the tratter wouldn't fit under the doorway steel lintel cos the hardcore level is higher than it used to be so had to shovel loads of that out the way by torch light and let nearly all the air out the tyres and she just scraped under.
Start the job proper tomorrow after I've made the pins for the engine crane and pumped all the tyres back up:cool::D.
Then wait a week for the new bits to turn up, going to fit a new slave too because it's slowly losing fluid :rolleyes:
 
Only got as far as everything done except gearbox mounts and bellhousing nuts/bolts and gearlevers before it went too dark to see.
Started again 8am this morning and it's rained quite alot and I'm soaked and cold:(
I'm not enjoying myself much lol!
IMG_20181025_120333.jpg

Decided to remove the handbrake drum and backplate so I can clean up the shoes and actuator mechanism on the bench, I also found the handbrake cable where it enters the large gearbox bracket was going to foul the chassis too.
The inside nut on the cable(19mm spanner) is a bugger to get at unless you cut a slot in an old ring spanner then it's a doddle.
Cover plate off and the problem is plain to see. AP clutch done less than 30k.
IMG_20181026_115155.jpg
 
Flossie said:
Cover plate off and the problem is plain to see. AP clutch done less than 30k.
Click to expand...

What did you decide to replace it with in the end?
I am running a 130 valeo in mine (disco 200tdi and lt77) with no issues, although others claim it judders I have not had this.
 
I've just ordered a valeo plate only because the cover looks mint still.
Thrust I'm not 100% happy with so ordered a new one of them and a trw clutch slave, master is not very old. Complete exhaust system too because I had to do a lot of repairs to it during the summer for the mot.
My Steve Parker conversation down pipe (modded by me so a TD standard system bolts straight on) has rotted too I've just discovered so that will need repairing which I'll do along with the leaking water pump whilst waiting for the bits to come from island 4x4.
 
Flossie said:
I've just ordered a valeo plate only because the cover looks mint still.
Thrust I'm not 100% happy with so ordered a new one of them and a trw clutch slave, master is not very old. Complete exhaust system too because I had to do a lot of repairs to it during the summer for the mot.
My Steve Parker conversation down pipe (modded by me so a TD standard system bolts straight on) has rotted too I've just discovered so that will need repairing which I'll do along with the leaking water pump whilst waiting for the bits to come from island 4x4.
Click to expand...

The same happened to my exhaust conversion and I spent out on the stainless steve parker. I was disappointed by the quality of some of the welding on it and feel it was overpriced for the quality. Could probably have had a custom piece made up (I cannot weld stainless) for less money. Exhausts irritate me, the cheap standard ones available only seem to last about 18 months but for the cost of a stainless system you could replace the cheap ones for about 25 years!
 
Have you got a new pilot bearing too?
I was always advised to replace the 5pence pieces (I don’t mean the actual coins) when you are in somewhere that is not easy to get at.
Certainly that looks like an easy way to do it (might put an engine hoist on my wish list) although I do have a pit which makes a big diff to a lot of jobs.
J
 
marjon said:
(might put an engine hoist on my wish list
Click to expand...

It is a very large piece of kit to spend most of its time in storage not being used. Much better to persuade (or find) a friend to get one that you can then borrow. That is what I have did, there is now about three or four of us that all use the same one the chap bought to enable him to replace his clutch.
 
Flossie said:
Cover plate off and the problem is plain to see. AP clutch done less than 30k.
Click to expand...

:eek: not much of a recommendation there then ... :rolleyes: plenty of life left in the linings on the side we can see, and the center lets the smoke out :mad::mad::mad:.
 
Well...I've had a terrible day:(
Bits came late morning so I cracked straight on with it.
New valeo friction plate and thrust bearing installed, used an old input shaft for enlignment , everything lovely and clean but will the box go back in? No chance:mad:
Been at it around 3 hrs until it got too dark to see so I've had to give up for now:(.
Tried all the little tricks but it just won't go the last 30 or 40mm to get at least the nuts started on the studs, even gap between box and adaptor plate, turned engine a bit, jiggled engine and box in every position possible but, no, she won't have it.
Starting to think the plate is the wrong way round but I was 100% sure when I did it or the thrust is wrong, dunno...
I love my tratter but the bastard needs to send abit back my way:mad:.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
Clutch problem unable to change gear
Replies
10
Views
611
Anaconda
A
J
Clutch failure
Replies
5
Views
562
dag019
dag019
Cornishdefender
Clutch pedal travel suddenly changed - now bite point in last 2 inches towards floor
Replies
4
Views
441
Cornishdefender
Cornishdefender
Mudstyler
Clutch release went bang!
Replies
11
Views
490
tottot
tottot
Skolmate
Defender 200tdi LT77 noise and rebuild
Replies
13
Views
1K
dag019
dag019
Back
Top