clutch @ 80,000 - replace flywheel as well?

At 80,000 miles, inc about 30,000 lightly driven by me (mainly motorway), my TD5's clutch is just starting to go. The local £££ main dealer says I will need to replace the dual mass flywheel as well, and has given me a horrific quote.

- how do you tell if the dual mass flywheel needs replacing ?

- any advice on how much a budget independant would charge either for clutch alone, or both (inc fitting)

thanks

Depends on the reason for changing the flywheel.

The flywheel is a larger version of the normal shock absorbing hub of a clutch plate.

If the flywheel springs between the two parts have been damaged, and you'd notice that in normal driving, then yes, you'd need to replace the flywheel, but if there are no broken bits then it's OK for further use.

The flywheel has no specific repair info or recommended replacement intervals in the workshop manual.

Peter

buzzfan said:

At 80,000 miles, inc about 30,000 lightly driven by me (mainly motorway), my TD5's clutch is just starting to go. The local £££ main dealer says I will need to replace the dual mass flywheel as well, and has given me a horrific quote.

- how do you tell if the dual mass flywheel needs replacing ?

- any advice on how much a budget independant would charge either for clutch alone, or both (inc fitting)

thanks

Click to expand...

A Valeo clutch kit for a TD5 is about £70, plus an HD fork. The rest is labour.

thebiglad said:

A Valeo clutch kit for a TD5 is about £700, plus an HD fork. The rest is labour.

Click to expand...

****part Clutch & flywheel is about £250 and that's what the garage will probably fit.

I always warn owners of TD5's that there is a 50% chance they will need a flywheel as well as the clutch assembly.I have just done one in a Defender 90 with less than 45,000m on it,the clutch was not worn out but the flywheel was shot,causing massive judder on take off.
They are a stupid design,no help to anything,just makes a dear job of what is bad enough already.Why the factories do this kind of thing is beyond me,just this week a local garage has scrapped a Mazda 6 with 42,000m on the clock.It had eaten its oil and siezed,I had 2 spare engines for it that could have been used to build one good one.The clutch and flywheel were both toast,the flywheel alone was £580 + Vat,head gasket was over £200.Add all the labour and other bits and pieces and its not worth doing.Just makes me think that progress stopped at 300TDI.

Mate had his D3 Clutch & flywheel done recently at a place in Exeter cost him just shy of £1k.

Thanks Peter - the following is an extract from Mr Clutch website "Indications of a worn dual mass flywheel are:
- Irregular noises
- Vibration
- Intermittent clutch slip"

My Disco is definietly slipping on acceleration, and hills. How do I decide if teh sluip is from wear on the clutch plate or flywheel?

listerdiesel said:

Depends on the reason for changing the flywheel.

The flywheel is a larger version of the normal shock absorbing hub of a clutch plate.

If the flywheel springs between the two parts have been damaged, and you'd notice that in normal driving, then yes, you'd need to replace the flywheel, but if there are no broken bits then it's OK for further use.

The flywheel has no specific repair info or recommended replacement intervals in the workshop manual.

Peter

Click to expand...

Slipping on acceleration and on hills suggests normal wear, you haven't got intermittent slip or the vibration and juddering.

There's a few secondhand flywheels on fleabay, and at least a few cheaper new ones than a main dealer would charge.

I'm surprised nobody has come out with a solid flywheel kit by now.

It has to be your call over fitting new or carrying on. I'd be inclined to have a look after the box is out and the clutch is off the flywheel, any broken springs etc should be obvious at that stage.

Peter

there are solid flywheels but they are more than the duel mass ones i had to change my fly wheel because of clutch slip and the problem was the fly wheel was dished so only rubing on the edges of the clutch