Freelander 2 (LR2) Freelander 2 MY2011 Help or Thoughts on work to get done?

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Swann36

Active Member
Posts
55
Location
North Lincs
Hello all,
I'd appreciate your thoughts on work that I'm proposing to get done as i think most of it is probably beyond my skills, knowledge & equipment as I only have a gravel driveway to work on her and no garage to put her in, at present I use ramps & bottle jacks plus Axel stands when I work on her.

I know it will come at a price that will no doubt make my eyes water, even using an Indie garage, but I plan on keeping my hippo for as long as possible and i think from what i've read here and elsewhere the work is worth doing and in the case of the 10year 150K items I’m assuming getting them done early is only a positive, however as a final sense check with the knowledgable group here thought I'd best hear what you've all got to say before i approach the garage for a price on all this.

First off my hippo is a MY2011, Freelander 2, 6 speed Manual, ED4 (i know 2 wheel drive not even a real hippo but still my girl for all of that) GS, she has coming up to 120,000 miles on the clock with almost no history between 50K and 95K when i got her a year ago.

1) Sump sandwich plate leak (i live with this for now but know it needs doing at some point)
2) Engine main rear seal leak (i live with this for now but it needs doing)
3) Split turbo drain hose (lived with doesn’t seem to create any issues)
These 3 were identified by Indie garage when i took it in for a "B" service in Feb (i now do the "A" service myself) I was quoted in the region of £1100 to fix them including fitting a new clutch (£200) while they were done as the engine has to be separated from the gearbox to do the main rear seal (a 2 or 3 day job they said as there’s lots of taking apart to be done along with the putting back together) which caused me a deep gulp price wise at the time but on reflection thats a lot of labour time so its probably simply the going rate ?

So while they are doing 1,2 & 3, there are other jobs that would seem to make sense to get done while the engine is dropped out so here goes

4) Coolant renewal (a 150K item)
5) New Ancillary drive belt (a 150K item)
6) New Camshaft drive belt, tensioner & idler pulley (a 150K item)
7) Replace water pump at same time as Cam-belt renewal (I've read thats a good preventative job to do alongside the 150K items)
8) Renew Manual transmission oil (a 150K item) although I'm not sure if that would happen anyway with them fitting a new clutch ?
9) Replace all the Glow Plugs as i have a code P0683 showing at least one of them has gone
10) Renew Brake Fluid and Flexible hoses (a 3 yearly item that I've no paperwork to show was done)

And finally
11) Clutch Dual Mass Flywheel ? If thats not part of what they meant by replacing the clutch as I’ve read somewhere that its worth getting the DMF done at the same time as the clutch ?

If its possible I’d really appreciate your thoughts on the value of doing all this in one go “while they have her” as well as the value of doing each of the jobs on their own merit, as always on here I learn with every post and appreciate all those who take the time to reply
 
The indie I use has just done my cambelt, water pump (so a coolant change too) and auxiliary belt as mine is ten years old. It had done 114k, but he said they should be done at 120k. Definately not left until 150k.
He replaced the gearbox oil (auto) along with the diff oil and haldex fluid. Unfortunately he wasn't able to get the oil out of the box at the front. LR says sealed for life, but we don't believe that, do we?!
Brake fluid is worth doing if you don't know when was last done. The flexi hoses I'd only replace if they needed it...
I got change out of £600 for the above.
 
What year and mileage is it on? The 10 year service isn't needed untill it's done 150k miles or its 10 years old. The reason for the date is items like belts still wear due to age even if not used.

Edit just spotted 2011
 
Save a little bit of money and don’t bother with the glow plugs. Unless you live in the arctic they’re not really needed. Mine have been knackered for a decade and the car starts first time every time.
 
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