Check your wheel nuts

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Well this page is a revelation to me :eek:
From the early 'seventies through to the late 'eighties I drove heavy trucks with anything from 2 to 5 axles grossing anything between 16 & 38T. Most of my employers decreed that drivers were responsible for the security of wheel nuts (& in the early days changing wheels following a puncture) I have always fitted the nuts onto dry threads (no torque wrenches then, we used to jump on the wheel-brace until the threads 'cracked') & I never lost a wheel. These days I use a torque wrench to tighten to the specified figure on our own cars, but still on a dry thread. In my experience it's hairy-arsed tyre fitters armed with a rattle-gun you have to be aware of when it comes to nut tightening & contrary to popular belief the manufacture's supplied wheel-brace will undo nuts that have been correctly torqued.
 
Well this page is a revelation to me :eek:
From the early 'seventies through to the late 'eighties I drove heavy trucks with anything from 2 to 5 axles grossing anything between 16 & 38T. Most of my employers decreed that drivers were responsible for the security of wheel nuts (& in the early days changing wheels following a puncture) I have always fitted the nuts onto dry threads (no torque wrenches then, we used to jump on the wheel-brace until the threads 'cracked') & I never lost a wheel. These days I use a torque wrench to tighten to the specified figure on our own cars, but still on a dry thread. In my experience it's hairy-arsed tyre fitters armed with a rattle-gun you have to be aware of when it comes to nut tightening & contrary to popular belief the manufacture's supplied wheel-brace will undo nuts that have been correctly torqued.

Very true my rattle gun will happily go upwards of 200nm if you let it, i do them by hand now. Ive even seen people start nuts with one. Torque settings seem to vary with tyre fitters too I had a tyre on my d4 and they told me they’d done it up to 150nm. I didn’t bother saying anything but I did re-torque it when I got back
 
When two metals are in contact with each other in the presence of some electrolyte (copper slip), the less active metal will act as the cathode and attract electrons from the anode. The anode is the material which corrodes.
In the case of galvanic corrosion, the combination of two dissimilar metals with an electrolyte is all that is needed to form a reaction.
Better to use a dab of engine oil where the alloy wheel meets the steel hub and save any issues with the wheels sticking to the hub.
 
Well this page is a revelation to me :eek:
From the early 'seventies through to the late 'eighties I drove heavy trucks with anything from 2 to 5 axles grossing anything between 16 & 38T. Most of my employers decreed that drivers were responsible for the security of wheel nuts (& in the early days changing wheels following a puncture) I have always fitted the nuts onto dry threads (no torque wrenches then, we used to jump on the wheel-brace until the threads 'cracked') & I never lost a wheel. These days I use a torque wrench to tighten to the specified figure on our own cars, but still on a dry thread. In my experience it's hairy-arsed tyre fitters armed with a rattle-gun you have to be aware of when it comes to nut tightening & contrary to popular belief the manufacture's supplied wheel-brace will undo nuts that have been correctly torqued.
tightening till they crack was how i was taught as an agricultural apprentice, it does work with dry threads,
 
Does anyone have knowledge of how the investigation into this tragic accident is going ?
I read the local rag's report after seeing the original post on here, but not seen/heard anything since.
 
Back
Top