Cheap underseal service

nobber said:

Whatever you do don't think even a good job will stop your vehicle rusting, it only slows it down.
When it eventually does need welding it makes it a proper ball ache of a job.

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Fair point but it also brings this topic into context: What's a proper job? This is a thread about "undersealing" and tbh "a proper job with underseal" is an oxymoron. Shutz is ok in small areas to protect against abrasion or impact but only if it is applied over the top of a proper job. Brush on underseal is porous, doesn't protect against rust and is usually used to hide a shed load of rubbish underneath.
Waxoyl / Dinitrol over the top of a chassis is also not a "proper job" but is a cost effective preventative if approached as described by jamesmartin. In my mind a "proper job" is this: cut out rusted areas and butt weld in new metal as required - for an older Landy this usually means at least a new rear cross member with extensions and new outriggers. Then bare metal the whole chassis and treat with trade quality rust treatment. Then prime with a sacrificial primer. Then top coat with synthetic or 2 pack paint. Following this treat the inside of the chassis with rust preventative followed by Dinitrol. This is to my mind a "proper job" but it will still need to by maintained on a yearly basis by making good any abraded or chipped areas to the same standard.
You are quite right that this only slows things down... but it slows it down by a hell of a lot - a properly maintained chassis should last for decades and since I don't own a modern car then this is what I have to aim for in the interests of daily use.
When you need to weld a chassis which has been treated like this simply sand away the paint with a disc in an angle grinder. Any areas of corrosion will be very small if you catch them in time and preparation will be less time consuming than tackling a rusty flaky untreated chassis.

nobber said:

You could also ask for the moon on a stick.

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For the price mentioned by the OP you might as well ask for all 62 known moons of Jupiter on sticks.

jamesmartin said:

if its a relatively rust free car waxoyling is an easy job, which is when it should be applied as long as internal ofchassis has pleny put in, if its as most with flaky brown rust, waxoyl after a good steam clean will help, i do quite a few a year with top ups done the next,which is what most offer id think, but obviously as wil2813 has done is the only thorough way removing all rust ,but few will have the means to do that ,and then paint would be better with waxoyl over the top once fully dried

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it was my own d2 & needed doing before winter.it was in summertime & imo I wouldn't recomend cleaning/sealing anything in damp/wet conditions.tbh it was a dirty nasty job.ive been asked to do more for friends etc but declined I chose to use shot/glass blast to remove the mounds of dirt/dry rust as shown in the pics when first hit with the shot at 10 bar 150psi you just have to keep hammering it on

wil2813 said:

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it was my own d2 & needed doing before winter.it was in summertime & imo I wouldn't recomend cleaning/sealing anything in damp/wet conditions.tbh it was a dirty nasty job.ive been asked to do more for friends etc but declined I chose to use shot/glass blast to remove the mounds of dirt/dry rust as shown in the pics when first hit with the shot at 10 bar 150psi you just have to keep hammering it on

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i bet youve had a few requests its the only proper way

Just bought a 2002 D2 TD5 Serengeti, which looks like it's come out of a showroom , other than slight surface rust on chassis. These comments are great help and my efforts, this summer, will be to protect this beauty for the future. My previous TD5 has major fabrications to be done on chassis, again this summer. Shame that the chassis lets down such an, otherwise, brilliant motor.

As a newly turned 60year old, I (dare I say?) am excited to get cracking on it. Can't believe I've been so lucky to pick up such a pristine motor. Don't know if I'll get out, from under the chassis though, after its sealed.

Thanks for a great site and really helpful support.
Andy.