Can I completely remove ABS system???

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Can I legally remove the ABS as its doesn’t work and when it does work it’s at the most inappropriate times, the brakes always pull up hard and true when the ABS is having one of its moments so don’t think I need it.
So basically how do I get round an MOT as it was logged as a fail for not working.

 
Can I legally remove the ABS as its doesn’t work and when it does work it’s at the most inappropriate times, the brakes always pull up hard and true when the ABS is having one of its moments so don’t think I need it.
So basically how do I get round an MOT as it was logged as a fail for not working.
Dont know but my wifes Hyudai Matrix was having a problem with the ABS shuddering and the warning light coming on. Took the bulb out of the dash in the end and its been through 2 MOT's since and now stopped shuddering. Well its not my car is it!!!!!!!:pound:
 
Can I legally remove the ABS as its doesn’t work and when it does work it’s at the most inappropriate times, the brakes always pull up hard and true when the ABS is having one of its moments so don’t think I need it.
So basically how do I get round an MOT as it was logged as a fail for not working.

You would have to remove all ABS related components and replace them with non ABS versions from an earlier car, at that point the car should pass an MOT as long as there's no indicator light to say it's broken (yeah I know - daft) you'd also have to inform your insurance company - some companies might refuse to continue cover.
 
The MOT test only checks the braking effort in resistance to the driven rollers, as daft as it sounds the condition of the brakes is irrelevant as long as the discs have the minimum thickness, the hydraulic system has no leaks and the brakes have an even effect on each side of the axle and pass the effort test.
Yes you can pass the MOT without the ABS connected.
 
The MOT test only checks the braking effort in resistance to the driven rollers, as daft as it sounds the condition of the brakes is irrelevant as long as the discs have the minimum thickness, the hydraulic system has no leaks and the brakes have an even effect on each side of the axle and pass the effort test.
Yes you can pass the MOT without the ABS connected.

Yes but the MOT testers' handbook stipulates an inoperative system must be removed.
 
Since the 1st of Jan an ABS light on is a fail, so if the ABS is being reported as not working it should fail. If the tester notices there's no ABS warning light sequence and then pokes around under the car spotting the ABS block, ABS sensors etc - he knows a system is fitted but the light has been tampered with. He has every right to fail the car unless you replace the hydraulic components with the non ABS versions. Most testers are far too busy to be this anal - but...
 
Since the 1st of Jan an ABS light on is a fail, so if the ABS is being reported as not working it should fail. If the tester notices there's no ABS warning light sequence and then pokes around under the car spotting the ABS block, ABS sensors etc - he knows a system is fitted but the light has been tampered with. He has every right to fail the car unless you replace the hydraulic components with the non ABS versions. Most testers are far too busy to be this anal - but...

I was unaware of the change to testing procedure this year, that's handy to know.
So it is a case of strip out all the ABS components and revert to non ABS, that being the case wouldn't it be simpler and safer to fix the ABS HOTFUZZ? second hand parts aren't that expensive.
 
its gotten through the MOT 3 time with the same light on at the same garage but i think rules have changed now,

Its and odd way they check the brakes in there as it 4x4 they dont put it on rollers but trive it through the car park in to the workshop at spped and on to 2 long rubber matts fixed to the floor, then hammer the brakes on!!! never seen that done before.
 
Hot fuzz that is a brake deceleration test all permanent 4x4 system will use it, I use a dial gauge type of tester but there is also the electronic versions.
 
To test the brakes correctly they have to be done at 30mph and the handbrake at 10mph the rubber mates I have no idea maybe to aid with traction ie when it is wet.

You would be suprised how readings will change I get most rr, rr sport disco 3 and 4 freelander 2 to pull between 80 and 95 on a dry day and 50 to 65 on a wet day
 
Have you tried getting a blink code off the ABS ECU so you have some idea of what the fault is? The ABS is not really that hard to sort out.

If the brakes aren't even then I would suspect that there is possibly a sticky calliper or perhaps a stuck valve in the ABS booster block/valve assembly thing.

If the ECU is good, the pump and accumulator are O.K. then the worst case is you'll need a new valve block (the big bit with the fluid reservoir on top of it). Swapping out the valve block is actually quite straight forward, I've done it on mine a few years ago. The only frustrating bit is bleeding the system.

Anyway, get some blink codes out of the system first then go from there.
 
its the same code every time, front drivers sensor air gap, ive tried replacment probes, the passengers probe, replacing all the wire but with no luck.

Have you looked at the reluctor rings on the drive shaft? If they are broken it will cause the ABS light to come on and a cheap and easy fix.
 
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