P38A ABS faults and codes

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MikeFl4

Active Member
Posts
104
Location
Ireland
Hello everyone,

I seem to have a common theme with a lot of my posts, and that’s that they are mostly related to the ABS system on my Range Rover.

Just to recap - 1999 P38 2.5 DSE

Car has:
New abs pressure sphere
Good used abs pump (I have about 4 to choose from and have swapped them around for testing)
Used but better working abs modulator
Abs ecu that seems to be in good condition as I have a second one that gives wheel sensor faults when it’s plugged in (all wheel sensors are good)
Cut and soldered connectors on the LH footwell, cleaned and reseated connectors on the RH (they weren’t super corroded and I didn’t feel like chopping again)
All ABS related ground points cleaned
Brakes fully bled following proper procedure.
Brakes feel good.


The problem:
Turn on the ignition (doesn’t matter whether engine is running or not, once it’s on ignition II)
All the abs related lights turn on and off accordingly (if you go over the 5mph the abs light turns off) - but anyways there are no faults
Wait around 90 seconds (I have timed this multiple times as I was always getting the fault after driving certain distance from my house, but it has nothing to do with the driving as it will do it just standing still as well)

At the 90 second mark, we get “abs fault”, sometimes traction failure as well but most of the time traction failure only appears once the ignition is turned off.

The only codes I get on Nanocom are as follows:

23-03 Pump relay driver fault : this fault I have literally no idea, I have changed the relay, fuse box looks in good condition, battery is in good condition and I also swapped the abs pump just incase the one I had installed at present was causing the problem.


Intermittently I also get :
01-07 Brake switch failure (fair enough, I changed the brake switch and set pedal position, brake lights all work fine so not sure. Tested the wiring back to the BECM and it seemed to check out just fine.)


Something that’s always bugged me is that even with a replacement modulator, abs pump and a brand new accumulator, my car can only manage two pumps of the brake pedal without running the pump, then it will start the pump on the third press. I know it should be better than this.

Any ideas? I was thinking of soldering the remainder of the wires on the RH side but I don’t really think these are an issue. Other things I was going to try is swapping the pump again but it’s just kind of a messy job and I already did that a few months ago for testing.

Also in my opinion, it a sensor or wiring fault as opposed to a component issue - I feel if it was any of the standard affair (wheel sensor, accumulator etc) we would be getting a normal code, this pump relay code I just can’t find any information on it in order to diagnose or solve my problem.

Something I have noticed is, the pump seems to be way louder than my last one even though it’s visually in much better condition (nowhere near as rusty or corroded). Despite this though, I don’t think it’s causing my issue as the pump does not run when the fault comes up (the car will charge the pump on first startup, then if I don’t use the brakes at all, the error comes up, pump does not run at any stage other than start up so I feel it’s not losing pressure)

Any ideas would be appreciated, I’ve literally never had working abs for the 3 years I’ve owned a P38 and it’s the last job I want to fix before moving forward with the project (reinstating the air suspension etc)

Thanks
 
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How long does the pump run after ignition off for one hour?
How long after overnight?
How long after 3rd press with ignition on?

With ignition off how many presses before you lose total pressure? Should be around 30 if i recall
 
How long does the pump run after ignition off for one hour?
How long after overnight?
How long after 3rd press with ignition on?

With ignition off how many presses before you lose total pressure? Should be around 30 if i recall

How long does the pump run after ignition off for one hour? = 15 seconds

How long after overnight? I cant give you the most accurate reading as I would have to leave the car sit overnight for that one, but from memory its under a minute, possibly around the 40 second mark from a time ago when I did time it.

How long after 3rd press with ignition on? 9 seconds, pretty consistent multiple times

With ignition off how many presses before you lose total pressure? 19-20 pedal presses, pedal changed tone and felt different.
 
You have changed the pump, did that include the pressure switch?
Yes, the whole thing with all the switches attached to it. Basically the whole unit, I have four of them complete and I just swapped my new sphere onto which ever one I deem to be the best.
 
At best you're losing pressure somewhere. Or not generating enough to start with. It the pressure switch is bad.
Pump shouldn't be running that long
 
At best you're losing pressure somewhere. Or not generating enough to start with. It the pressure switch is bad.
Pump shouldn't be running that long
Fair enough, any idea what I should look into replacing or checking first? I’ve kinda gone through the whole system but obviously all my used parts are 20 years old now (at best) so it’s not a guarantee they’re working at their best.

Are you making your assumption based on the time it takes to build pressure or the gap between pressure building?

Can you lose pressure through the modulator? I’m not sure if I possibly have a leak at the modulator as I overfilled it first time around. I only noticed the other day when changing the turbo that there it was wet on the bottom so it’s either old fluid I didn’t clean at the time or I have a leak somewhere.

I don’t think the valve in my accumulator is bad as it doesn’t run the pump unless your actuating the pedal (ie - it doesn’t run by just being left sitting at idle so pressure isn’t leaking past it) - I will run this test again though just to make sure.

I replaced the copper washers where needed each time I replaced any component that needed then.
 
My car would lose pressure after about an hour but the pump only ran after 3 presses, for the normal time.

I wonder if you've got some air in the system somewhere? Have you bled according to the manual?
 
RAVE shows how the pressure should build, but unhelpfully as usual the Time value is not stated !!

1693663241701.png
 
Pressure switch sounds plausible. The relay is presumably it looking for a signal that never appears. So wiring fault or switch not switching or indeed the relay really not working.

3 presses on the pedal isn't bad.
 
Thanks guys for the information, very helpful at usual.

I actually after making this post made an adjustment to my ABS system, when I replaced the modulator and bled the whole system I had overfilled the reservoir (well I had to keep topping it up for bleeding but it was overfull by the time I had finished)

I rectified this by withdrawing some of the fluid so it would line up with the max line before taking the P38 on a decent journey, around 150km over the weekend.

What I thought was interesting was this was the first time the car had ever given me different symptoms for the abs fault message.

Once, the message occurred directly after starting the engine, later… the message occurred long after it usually would (let’s say about 5mins, I wasn’t timing anything!)

Anyways, the error is still present, just figured I’d add some info to make it more confusing 😝


My car would lose pressure after about an hour but the pump only ran after 3 presses, for the normal time.

I wonder if you've got some air in the system somewhere? Have you bled according to the manual?
I would think that I have all the air out, I’ve fully bled the system twice now as I replaced the calipers on the back and the modulator of course. The pedal feels good as well? Maybe one more bleed wouldn’t hurt things but I still don’t think it’s related to my error code.
A good system with a new accumulator should be good for 4 presses, after which the pump should run for about 2s max
Woah, 2 seconds is super short, yeah I had a look at buying a full brand new accumulator, cheapest I could find online was over 2k… I think I would just have to live with the error before I spend that kind of money.
Pressure switch sounds plausible. The relay is presumably it looking for a signal that never appears. So wiring fault or switch not switching or indeed the relay really not working.

3 presses on the pedal isn't bad.
I’d be happy with 3, it’s the fact that it turns on during the third press is what’s unfortunate.

I suspected pressure switch as well hence I just decided to swap the whole pump, unfortunately didn’t make a difference.

It’s just such a weird fault code!!! Pump relay driver, like what does that even mean? I’ve changed the pump, checked and changed the relay, after that I don’t really know why I’m getting no change. It must either be a wiring problem or the error code is a red herring
 
The accumulator the the black sphere, around £100 but that was a while ago now
Brand new accumulator sphere less than 12 months ago, as I said in my first message I swap this new accumulator sphere onto whichever pump I deemed best looking.

Just checking you bled from all 3 nipples on the main block?
Yes, full complete brake bleed following rave procedure.

The level line on the modulator is for when the system is on and it is normal for it to be over it when the car has been left for awhile
Yes, I do know that’s the case, the thing is that at the end of the bleeding procedure the whole system is primed and you should not have it exceed the max level, I just never bothered taking some fluid out at the time (it was about 1cm above the max line)
 
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