Auto stalled - very WEIRD

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toadfish

Member
Posts
82
300tDi, ES auto, gearbox 1996/7

Driving along, applied foot brake, went to accelerate again and found disco had stalled.

Indicators stopped working, wipers, cigar power outlet failed (only live when ignition is on) i.e. it was as if ignition had been turned off.

Pulled into layby, obviously steering was stiff, but brakes were ok.

Restarted ok.

No warning lights.

Not sure of this bit, could be wrong, thought I put it in drive and applied throttle and no movement, but knowing me I could have been in neutral. Stuck it in reverse and all was well when I went into Drive. So this bit could be red herring. Drove home fine.

I changed all fuses to ones that GLOW when they blow (bought ages ago from this website and forgot to fit until now New Boat Gear).

My thoughts are (and this is where I seek your help because I could be way off track):
Key fob moved away from receiver under steering column and caused stall? I installed a new key barrel etc last year and found the receiver dangling, so strapped it up and sometimes the car needs the fob moving around a bit before it 'finds' it and starts. BUT can a disco stall if fob moves out of range? I will be moving the receiver nearer the key in a minute anyway).

Fuel filter. After sticking in a few litres of unleaded (20L to 20 L diesel) a while back and NOT starting as I realised what a plonker I was being in time, I drained whole tank, filled with 80L diesel plus Forte for diesel engines - cleans injectors etc - used it before. Since then have used the whole 80 Litres and refilled with another 80L. About to change fuel filter which is what I always do after using Forte.

Apart from that I haven't a CLUE. All oil levels and grease nipples were topped up a couple of months ago.

Any help much appreciated because wife will drive this soon and I don't want to be responsible for failing to keep her safe.

Thanks a lot in advance.
 
As above really but as for putting petrol in that's fine. It's actually good to put a LITTLE petrol in with the diesel it cleans your injectors so I wouldn't worry about changing your fuel filter unless it really needs doing
 
Many thanks for replies and pointers.

Well, its not a jiggery key (at least not at key end because I jiggled it a lot and car continued to run; will have to inspect end of barrel as suggested.)

It is NOT the key fob - most worryingly, she started with the key fob nowhere near the car. I thought that the car was not supposed to start because mobiliser kicks in (or anti-mobiliser as the case may be)

Changed filter already.

Must say it did run better after the unleaded fuel incident (although none should have got to pump as I never turned ignition on).

Took it for a 10 mile run just now and all was fine - really smooth.

Points to note: it only stalled when brake was applied, so I guess revs dropped. Idle seems to be about 800 - 1000rpm.
Was raining of day of incident so wipers going, damp getting in somewhere?

(1) Reversing off our drive, slight slope, with engine and gearbox cold is always very slow -i.e. revs a lot and not a lot of movement backwards - makes me think viscous and gearbox etc. I even put it into low range to reverse off sometimes and then it moves with ease and on tick over. After warm and turn engine off, drive train feels a lot more 'connected' ie. give it throttle and she pulls away better - makes me think all oil is warm and got to right places - but I am guessing here of course.

(2) i have a failing alternator for sure. Only puts in 13V with all electrics off. Turn lights on and air con and 11.9V going in - so for now I trickle charge battery after short runs over night.

The recent drive with all lights on and air con max and then braking caused no stall.

Thanks again.
 
I do not think the disc STALLED now.

I think the electrics all failed (hence why power to cigar socket - powering a camera) failed.

So, if all the electrics failed, the engine stopped.

Have looked at ignition barrel, all looks ok.
Did find a dodgy earth and an important one, from battery to chassis and to inner wing and then on to elsewhere, so secured that.

So that is all I can say for now.

Will let you know if I find out what went wrong so it can be stored here for others.

Did find some water dripping on this thing (see this post)
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/what-heatsink-235536.html
don't know what this part is so can't say if it had anything to do with it yet.
Cheers
 
Found that the main earth (from battery to chassis and inner wing) was only just touching the clamp that holds it.

I re-secured it and HEY ! all my low voltage problems are gone (see other posts) - I now get 14.2V constant charging.

Woopee.

Next test will be to run engine, then take the earth out of the securing clamp.

If engine dies (as explained in OP), then I have found the problem and I a happy jack - it's nice to know what went wrong.

Just in case this helps others.

I found the earth clamp clue from tonnes of searching on here - so thanks to all the guys that posted.:tea:
 
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