Any engineers in da house?

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both helicoils and timeserts will require the removal of the bracket to facilitate insertion and they can both be very expensive especially if you can't get anyone to do it and have to buy a kit.if the bolt doesn't get that close to bottoming out in the thread then i would get a longer bolt but use the old one to chase the thread,grind a flat on one side of the old bolt and wind it in with plenty of lubrication,it will basically do the same job as a tap then fit the longer bolt,make sure you get all the galled ali off the old bolt first though.

that city and guilds wasn't wasted on me after all then!,and i got to learn some big words as well!:D
 
bigchap said:
both helicoils and timeserts will require the removal of the bracket to facilitate insertion and they can both be very expensive especially if you can't get anyone to do it and have to buy a kit.if the bolt doesn't get that close to bottoming out in the thread then i would get a longer bolt but use the old one to chase the thread,grind a flat on one side of the old bolt and wind it in with plenty of lubrication,it will basically do the same job as a tap then fit the longer bolt,make sure you get all the galled ali off the old bolt first though.

that city and guilds wasn't wasted on me after all then!,and i got to learn some big words as well!:D
Click to expand...

Hey thanks, I like the sound of that, using the existing bolt. When you say flat side, how much are you planing off and at what angle?

I would remove the bracket, only its an engine out job. I have had the engine out before, its relatively easy.....but its a lot of work just to salvage the part. If I was going to remove the old bracket then I would just replace with a new one. Still havent sourced a part code or price
 
the idea is to get a sharp thread shaped edge - you can do the same with a few hacksaw cuts if you cant grind it. It is only to run down the thread, recutting as it goes and to clean out any crud in there. I would be inclined to grind a flat on both sides, opposite along the whole length of the bolt. If you can - you could undercut any plain section underneath the bolt head, so that the thread sticks proud. Use lots of lubricant and keep running it back out to clean out the crud that forms.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
the idea is to get a sharp thread shaped edge - you can do the same with a few hacksaw cuts if you cant grind it. It is only to run down the thread, recutting as it goes and to clean out any crud in there. I would be inclined to grind a flat on both sides, opposite along the whole length of the bolt. If you can - you could undercut any plain section underneath the bolt head, so that the thread sticks proud. Use lots of lubricant and keep running it back out to clean out the crud that forms.
Click to expand...

Text book stuff, cheers for the idiots guide,
 
No the idiots guide was for my benefit.
Managed to get a M14 tap, £13 bargain ;), plug type as recommended by the gentleman in the shop. Lathgo threading tools, Old Hilsborough Rd, Lisburn, if any local LZ members are interested.
He also said he would only sell a few of that size in a year, probably all the Rover boys lol :D
Will try a retap and see how it goes.
Thanks again troopers.
 
MHM- yeah he was very helpful, he didnt recommend the tapered or intermediate type for risk of crossing the threads. The kits for the coil inserts were reasonably priced. Will try a layer of chemical metal first and see how it goes ;)
 
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