Disco 2 Torque converter won't go in all the way

Maat · Jun 27, 2024

Hi there,

I am in the process of fitting another engine in my D2 (1999 Td5) and it is now resting on the engine mounts, bolt holes at the back aligned with the ones on the bell housing, however the engine and the gearbox are about 1cm apart.

Trying to bring them closer by slowly doing in the bolts is no help, I can feel resistance and I don't want to force it. Also, engine stops turning then. I tried rocking the gearbox about from underneath the car whilst someone is pushing the engine inwards with a long prybar but that's no help either. I feel like it should come together easily.

Looking through the inspection hole in the bellhousing, I can see that the flexplate and torque converter are touching already, so I assume it's the TC that should go further in on the main shaft of the gearbox. I am worried about damaging the splines or the oil pump.

Some more info, I have not yet aligned and bolted in the flexplate to the TC, and TC was fitted before putting the engine in. I thought I already fitted it all the way in.

Any ideas, much appreciated.

Matt

Stanleysteamer · Jun 27, 2024

What did you do to retain the TC in place once back in the bellhousing?
Do you have the old engine so that you can compare distances/measurements?
I take it you are sure that the new-to-you engine is compatible?

Maat · Jun 27, 2024

Stanleysteamer said:
What did you do to retain the TC in place once back in the bellhousing?
Do you have the old engine so that you can compare distances/measurements?
I take it you are sure that the new-to-you engine is compatible?

I wasn't aware I had to do anything to keep it in place, seeing as the gearbox leans upwards and it didn't go anywhere!
Both engines are the same, 10p and looked very similar. I can't take measurements however as I took the flexplate and crownwheel from the old one to fit onto this new one. I still have it however. Kept it as learning material, hopefully I will be able to refurbish it one of these years.

Stanleysteamer · Jun 27, 2024

Maat said:
I wasn't aware I had to do anything to keep it in place, seeing as the gearbox leans upwards and it didn't go anywhere!
Both engines are the same, 10p and looked very similar. I can't take measurements however as I took the flexplate and crownwheel from the old one to fit onto this new one. I still have it however. Kept it as learning material, hopefully I will be able to refurbish it one of these years.

Most people do lock it into place with something as accidents can and do happen when the autobox etc is moved around.
I was thinking more of measurements from the back edges of the engine forwards, which you could compare with both.
In the past engines used to come with spacers between bellhousing and engine, wondering if somehow something like this missed being transferred over. But I am talking in the dark as I have never personally taken my autobox off.
Pain in the rear though it may be I'd be tempted to take the box off, rest it upright on its rear flange and twist and turn the TC to be sure it has fully engaged with the pump, before securing it in that position with stuff that is easily removable, such as wire.
You said "crownwheel" I am sure you meant "flywheel" but I get what you meant.
Once the box is out of the way you could make sure that the flywheel and flexplate are as far in as they should be. i.e. that the spigot bearing is OK.
I'm sure someone with much more accurate knowledge will pop on soon and save you from doing too much work. I don't think it can be anything serious.

sierrafery · Jun 27, 2024

Here's a guide from Ashcroft site:

Assembly

Check engine to bellhousing and Autobox to transfer case dowels are all fitted.

It is very important that you locate and install your torque converter correctly. One of the most common causes of failure is the torque converter not being located correctly onto the pump before fitting causing the pump to be broken on start up.

To avoid this we would suggest that you stand the autobox upright and lower the torque converter into the bellhousing.

When the torque converter has fully located onto the pump it is essential to then measure the distance from the bellhousing front face to the torque converter feet ( also known as the flange that the flexplate is bolted to).

Once the torque converter is inserted and checked make sure it does not fall forward when offering the autobox up to the engine. Do not be tempted to pull the gearbox into position with the bellhousing bolts, it should fully locate on the engine with no gap between the bellhousing and engine block.

With the autobox fitted to the engine, check that the converter will rotate freely and has a small amount (about 2mm) of end float. Bolt the converter to the flex plate using loctite or similar on the thread of the bolts.

Maat · Jun 27, 2024

Oh my lord, I might have to pull the gearbox out... although it would be much easier for me to pull the engine back out since everything is still disconnected and double check that way. I will have to check in the manual what the distance between the TC face and front of the bellhousing should be.

Thanks for the help!

Maat · Jun 27, 2024

Stanleysteamer said:
Most people do lock it into place with something as accidents can and do happen when the autobox etc is moved around.
I was thinking more of measurements from the back edges of the engine forwards, which you could compare with both.
In the past engines used to come with spacers between bellhousing and engine, wondering if somehow something like this missed being transferred over. But I am talking in the dark as I have never personally taken my autobox off.
Pain in the rear though it may be I'd be tempted to take the box off, rest it upright on its rear flange and twist and turn the TC to be sure it has fully engaged with the pump, before securing it in that position with stuff that is easily removable, such as wire.
You said "crownwheel" I am sure you meant "flywheel" but I get what you meant.
Once the box is out of the way you could make sure that the flywheel and flexplate are as far in as they should be. i.e. that the spigot bearing is OK.
I'm sure someone with much more accurate knowledge will pop on soon and save you from doing too much work. I don't think it can be anything serious.

Yes, I meant flywheel, but I wasn't sure they also call it that for automatic vehicles!

Maat · Jul 22, 2024

A bit of an update.

I looked it up in rave, no mention of the depth the TC should be sitting at. From ashcrofts they did not say. I found a list online with different serial numbers for ZF4HP22 gearboxes and the depth of the TC. My number was not on the list, however the current depth - 83mm - coincides with others I've seen. Can't find the list now to include here.

However, it most definitely needs to sit about 2cm deeper. I tried multiple times, but each time I feel like I can't get the TC to catch on the oil pump. I tried aligning them, tried spinning TC clockwise whilst gently pushing. It feels like it just goes in two stages, but not the third.

Or is it possible that it is sitting all the way in and something else is wrong?

kevstar · Jul 22, 2024

Maat said:
Oh my lord, I might have to pull the gearbox out... although it would be much easier for me to pull the engine back out since everything is still disconnected and double check that way. I will have to check in the manual what the distance between the TC face and front of the bellhousing should be.

Thanks for the help!

When I done mine I used 2 small staps of timber screwed across the bellhousing to stop the converter moving, got it in
place then pulled them out.

Disco 2 Torque converter won't go in all the way

Maat

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Stanleysteamer

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Maat

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Stanleysteamer

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sierrafery

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Maat

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Maat

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Maat

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kevstar

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