Another 90 Rebuild
- Thread starter Al2O3
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aaronmorris
Head's a shed
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Well done on the pass mate, must be great to finally have it back on the road, I for one will miss this thread.
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Cheers, Aaron. It's great having the MOT out of the way.
There's still a few things to do. Trim to fit inside, door switches to build in, some water proofing to do with gaps in door seals, etc. Hoping to start fitting the central locking on Saturday if it's dry out.
Drove it to the nearest town tonight, about eleven miles there, to try it out and put some fuel in. Obviously, I was worrying about the slightest twitch. But it drove quite well really. Had her up to 70mph and all seemed ok. Having a slight issue with getting the steering wheel centred. But out on the road the steering feels positive.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
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LOL, the day you stop working on it is the day you sell it.Cheers, Aaron. It's great having the MOT out of the way.
There's still a few things to do. Trim to fit inside, door switches to build in, some water proofing to do with gaps in door seals, etc. Hoping to start fitting the central locking on Saturday if it's dry out.
Drove it to the nearest town tonight, about eleven miles there, to try it out and put some fuel in. Obviously, I was worrying about the slightest twitch. But it drove quite well really. Had her up to 70mph and all seemed ok. Having a slight issue with getting the steering wheel centred. But out on the road the steering feels positive.
Or die!
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- 11,020
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Thought Id have a go at fitting the Hawk central locking system Saint.V8 did a thread about three or four weeks ago. HERE
I had a look through the thread and thought I have a look at where Retroanaconda suggested mounting the actuators as it meant you didn't need to take the glass out.
Had a play around and thought I would try and mount them behind the window mechanism plate
. It would mean just drilling two holes in the plate and do away with the mounting bars.
Drilled the two holes and put a bit of dinitrol on them
My replacement doors had a bracket for the window mechanism really low down so I'd had to cut a bit of ali plate to bridge the gap. I had to put a spacer in to move the mechanism plate out a bit, so that the window didn't hit the actuator.
I had some captive nuts that would make perfect spacers once cut to the right length.
Here's the spacer in place.
Cut the Hawk push bar down to the right length, fitted it and tightened the actuator down and that was it.
I cut a short length of one of the Hawk mounting bars, to bridge across to the door frame, and screwed it down with the actuator retaining screw. I did this just to act as extra stability and anti-vibration.
It was very quick to do, repeating this on the other side took little over fifteen minutes.
I haven't wired them in yet as I need to order some conduit to put the cables in as Saint.V8 did. I also want to investigate wiring it in to the 10AS immobiliser module, but need to research this. Apparently, you need a relay because the Landy fob uses a 'positive' pulse and the Hawk system a 'negative' pulse (or vice versa, I can't remember) I haven't got a clue about this, so hopefully someone on here does.
I had a look through the thread and thought I have a look at where Retroanaconda suggested mounting the actuators as it meant you didn't need to take the glass out.
Had a play around and thought I would try and mount them behind the window mechanism plate
. It would mean just drilling two holes in the plate and do away with the mounting bars.
Drilled the two holes and put a bit of dinitrol on them
My replacement doors had a bracket for the window mechanism really low down so I'd had to cut a bit of ali plate to bridge the gap. I had to put a spacer in to move the mechanism plate out a bit, so that the window didn't hit the actuator.
I had some captive nuts that would make perfect spacers once cut to the right length.
Here's the spacer in place.
Cut the Hawk push bar down to the right length, fitted it and tightened the actuator down and that was it.
I cut a short length of one of the Hawk mounting bars, to bridge across to the door frame, and screwed it down with the actuator retaining screw. I did this just to act as extra stability and anti-vibration.
It was very quick to do, repeating this on the other side took little over fifteen minutes.
I haven't wired them in yet as I need to order some conduit to put the cables in as Saint.V8 did. I also want to investigate wiring it in to the 10AS immobiliser module, but need to research this. Apparently, you need a relay because the Landy fob uses a 'positive' pulse and the Hawk system a 'negative' pulse (or vice versa, I can't remember) I haven't got a clue about this, so hopefully someone on here does.
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I've just unwound the Hawk wiring harness to see how narrow a conduit I can get away with. Looked through the very brief installation guide too. There are two short wires that come out of the socket that plugs in to the Hawk sensor module. There's a brown one (unlock) and a white one (unlock) and it simply says they are there to connect to an existing alarm! I'm presuming/hoping that a relay won't be needed and that you just have to find out which wire (brown or white) you need for your existing alarm/immobiliser)
I don't even know what connections the 10AS box has on the bottom. I seem to remember there may a spare multi-pin socket or two, but how you connect a single wire to it I don't know.
I don't even know what connections the 10AS box has on the bottom. I seem to remember there may a spare multi-pin socket or two, but how you connect a single wire to it I don't know.
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Ok, I've found these pin layouts for the 10AS box.
The green connector has pins 2 and 3 which are CDL lock-output and CDL unlock output. The Hawk instructions says their brown and white wires are both unlock! I'll have to do some more research and/or start a specif thread on LZ.
The green connector has pins 2 and 3 which are CDL lock-output and CDL unlock output. The Hawk instructions says their brown and white wires are both unlock!
I'll have to do some more research and/or start a specif thread on LZ.
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Cheers, mate. The problem is I think different alarms/immobilisers might have different pin configurations. But, if you can work out which is the lock and unlock wire, that must be the answer. I've sent the company a message, via their website, saying that their instructions call both wires 'unlock' wires and is this a mistake. Hopefully , they reply sometime next week.
When you say you got the 'full kit', I presume you mean the 'Hawk' central locking/alarm and immobiliser?
Indeed....I tested it inside and confirmed the way I had it the door things go out when you press unlock and down when you press lock.
I've just checked mine and I have white as lock and brown as unlock. If once you've worked out where it goes for your alarm, I'd suggest making a temporary connection until you're sure it works. I tested mine just by twisting the wires together, then made crimp connections once I was sure it would work (with reversed connections for the lock/unlock so I can't reconnect them wrong!)
There was lots of options on the alarm to connect it to, but I followed the negative signal one as that's what the central locking instructions said it was.
To start with at least I'm not wiring up the immobiliser....I may do it at a later date, but I am a bit worried it could break things! At least am going to wait till it's through the MOT! I decided to put the rest of the alarm and central locking in now as there's a lot of wires involved, and I figured I could do a better job of it if they're all hidden well under the dash.
I've also fitted a tracker that I got off amazon a few years ago - fingers crossed it should work fine. That also has a remote kill function, which I'm definitely not going to fit!
Just for fun: Video of it working
I've just checked mine and I have white as lock and brown as unlock. If once you've worked out where it goes for your alarm, I'd suggest making a temporary connection until you're sure it works. I tested mine just by twisting the wires together, then made crimp connections once I was sure it would work (with reversed connections for the lock/unlock so I can't reconnect them wrong!)
There was lots of options on the alarm to connect it to, but I followed the negative signal one as that's what the central locking instructions said it was.
To start with at least I'm not wiring up the immobiliser....I may do it at a later date, but I am a bit worried it could break things! At least am going to wait till it's through the MOT! I decided to put the rest of the alarm and central locking in now as there's a lot of wires involved, and I figured I could do a better job of it if they're all hidden well under the dash.
I've also fitted a tracker that I got off amazon a few years ago - fingers crossed it should work fine. That also has a remote kill function, which I'm definitely not going to fit!
Just for fun: Video of it working
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Crackin, that's clarified a few things for me. Also, when I posted last night, I had just got in from a beer festival so being sober now has clarified a few things too!
I'm thinking if you wire the lock and unlock wires the wrong way, then it will just lock instead on unlocking and vice versa. So you would just need to swap them around. I ordered some flexi conduit yesterday, so I'll wait until next weekend to do the wiring. Though I'm tempted to test it today
I'm thinking if you wire the lock and unlock wires the wrong way, then it will just lock instead on unlocking and vice versa. So you would just need to swap them around.
I ordered some flexi conduit yesterday, so I'll wait until next weekend to do the wiring. Though I'm tempted to test it today
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Ha, ha. Yes, some fun and games until you've swapped the lock and unlock wires.indeed...but since I have the alarm, i'd be setting the alarm off when I got in the car and having the alarm off when it's locked
James_mac
Active Member
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i bet its amazing to finally get it through a MOT and get it on the road, well done mate, you should be proud.
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Cheers, James_mac. Yes, I'm very chuffed indeed.
Jam1
Well-Known Member
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I bet you sat there and pressed those buttons looooooooooooooooooooooooooads of times didn't you?
(I would have )
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Further news on the Hawk central locking and connecting it to the Land Rover 10AS alarm.
Hawk replied to my question about the white and brown wires provided on their central locking system. This is what they said.
Hi,
Thanks for your email.
White and brown wires only work on our alarm system.
Thanks,
www.hawkcaralarm.com
Not what I was hoping for, so further investigation needed.
Does anyone know if it will be something to do with the positive/negative pulse issue?
I'll put a post on the general forum too and cast a wider net for electrical wizards.
Hawk replied to my question about the white and brown wires provided on their central locking system. This is what they said.
Hi,
Thanks for your email.
White and brown wires only work on our alarm system.
Thanks,
www.hawkcaralarm.com
Not what I was hoping for, so further investigation needed.
Does anyone know if it will be something to do with the positive/negative pulse issue?
I'll put a post on the general forum too and cast a wider net for electrical wizards.
What's the positive/negative pulse issue?
What sort of unlock does the default alarm have? Mines a 200tdi so before any sort of alarm wizardry
They certainly are short and to the point - i contacted them asking the differnce between the 240 (the one I got ) and the 280.....they just replied saying I should get the 240 (which was cheaper).
What sort of unlock does the default alarm have? Mines a 200tdi so before any sort of alarm wizardry
They certainly are short and to the point - i contacted them asking the differnce between the 240 (the one I got ) and the 280.....they just replied saying I should get the 240 (which was cheaper).
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I read it on the original post by Saint.V8
The system uses a negative pulse for lock and unlock on the brown and white wires (not sure which one is which - but it is in the manual) I believe the 10AS issues a positive pulse (you will have to check) but with a couple of relays (one for the lock signal and one for the unlock signal) you can convert the pulse round.
I don't pretend to understand it. I was hoping it would just be a case of swapping the brown and white wires, from the Hawk system, to the two pins on the 10AS. But, obviously not!
The system uses a negative pulse for lock and unlock on the brown and white wires (not sure which one is which - but it is in the manual) I believe the 10AS issues a positive pulse (you will have to check) but with a couple of relays (one for the lock signal and one for the unlock signal) you can convert the pulse round.
I don't pretend to understand it. I was hoping it would just be a case of swapping the brown and white wires, from the Hawk system, to the two pins on the 10AS. But, obviously not!
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The split flexi conduit, for the CDL cabling, arrived today. It's currently forecast a bit of rain up here on Saturday, but weather permitting I'm going to try and get the CDL wired up and then I'll be able to replace the door cards and handles etc. Hopefully, I'll be able to get it wired in to the Land Rover 10AS box too.
I've been driving it to work for the last two days, on top of a few short journeys since the MOT. Done 210 miles and all seems well. I've got an occasional high pitched whistle, not too loud, coming from front of engine. Tried a small amount of oil on the aux belt tensioner pulley, but made no difference. Probably the water pump, possibly alternator? Not sure.
It's had a lot of admirers at work. I've had one person ask if it's for sale. Not a chance!
I've been driving it to work for the last two days, on top of a few short journeys since the MOT. Done 210 miles and all seems well. I've got an occasional high pitched whistle, not too loud, coming from front of engine. Tried a small amount of oil on the aux belt tensioner pulley, but made no difference. Probably the water pump, possibly alternator? Not sure.
It's had a lot of admirers at work. I've had one person ask if it's for sale. Not a chance!
