after changing starter ring aut gearbox does not shift p38 4.6hse 1994

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mjb.thomassen

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66
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breda
while changing the starter ring gear the torque converter came out a bit.we pushed it back and finished the job.
The automatic gearbox won t shift anymore .It indicates gearbox fault or traction fault.
The only thing we also did was changing the oil because the sump screw was leaking.
We are not close to diagnostic garage so maybe we can solve it without.
When starting and shifting after the job it worked for 5 meters and than stopped shifting.
We tried shifting with more power also.
 
first I put exactly the same in as came out .The level stays far above the marks even after a few minutes with a running engine.It seems as if the oil does not spread well.
I put some 1litre extra in it stays at he same too high a level . maybe the torque converter does not get enough oil? The extra oil can be taken out later
 
first I put exactly the same in as came out .The level stays far above the marks even after a few minutes with a running engine.It seems as if the oil does not spread well.
I put some 1litre extra in it stays at he same too high a level . maybe the torque converter does not get enough oil? The extra oil can be taken out later
sounds like pumps not been driven,likely you didnt align the drive lugs in the pump with the slots in the torque converter,and so bust them when you pulled gearbox up to engine,you should measure depth of the t/c threaded lug to bell housing face and ensure its a mm or two greater than the rear face of drive plate to rear engine face distance
oil level on stick should drop when engines running
 
this is what your looking at the 2 lugs on the oil pump gear can be seen looking through the tube
upload_2020-7-17_15-53-42.jpeg

upload_2020-7-17_15-53-59.jpeg
 
I thought there only is one possibility to click in the t conv into the pump otherwise the t conv will not fit to the ring gear of the starter and the bell housing will not close .
I looked at clips on youtube how to fit a t converter
 
I thought there only is one possibility to click in the t conv into the pump otherwise the t conv will not fit to the ring gear of the starter and the bell housing will not close .
I looked at clips on youtube how to fit a t converter
seems commonly done probably during the fitting,if pumps not pumping its either short of oil ,pump lugs snapped t.c /drive plate bolts not fitted,unless you had sump off a removed/refitted oil screen and pickup pipe without the o rings
 
can these pump lugs break just like that? And als both ? I do not know how strong they are.
If the job is done do the errors on the display have to be erased by diagnostics
 
Well known issue with the ZFHP boxes on the RRC & the P38.
If the TC isn't seated to a predetermined measurement - from a straight edge across the bellhousing mouth to the foremost part of any of the lugs on the TC - which ensures the two cutouts on the TC tube he gearbox will bolt back up to the engine but it will damage the pump.
No pump = no fluid pressure = no drive & you will need at least a new pump.
Can be an absolute and utter PITA to correctly seat a TC on the gearbox engaging the gearbox input shafts with the internal splines inside the TC unless the box is suspended vertically. The TC is only pushed onto the box & will happily slide off & fall onto the ground given the slightest opportunity.
 
Well known issue with the ZFHP boxes on the RRC & the P38.
If the TC isn't seated to a predetermined measurement - from a straight edge across the bellhousing mouth to the foremost part of any of the lugs on the TC - which ensures the two cutouts on the TC tube he gearbox will bolt back up to the engine but it will damage the pump.
No pump = no fluid pressure = no drive & you will need at least a new pump.
Can be an absolute and utter PITA to correctly seat a TC on the gearbox engaging the gearbox input shafts with the internal splines inside the TC unless the box is suspended vertically. The TC is only pushed onto the box & will happily slide off & fall onto the ground given the slightest opportunity.

It has been mentioned before. All sounds a bit Heath-Robinson. You'd think they'd be a catch or slot for a pin or something.
 
Much like the LR special tool for doing it but cheaper! You'll get there eventually but it's still a PITA.
I've done it that way - incl lying on the ground under the car which I don't recommend.
Last time I did mine (gasket & seal replacing job) after a few attempts I strung the box up vertically with my engine crane. The TC went on so easily I thought something was wrong so I lifted it off & put it back on again :)
Ideally don't let it drop off the box & I made a 'T' shaped tool that fits up through the round hole in the bottom of the bellhousing & sits against the front of the TC to stop it sliding forward. The long part of the 'T' holds the TC & I drilled holes in the crosspiece of the 'T' to suit the bolts that hold the round plate that normally covers the hole. Use a decent thickness of steel as bodywork thickness will just bend & let the TC slide off....
 
Much like the LR special tool for doing it but cheaper! You'll get there eventually but it's still a PITA.
I've done it that way - incl lying on the ground under the car which I don't recommend.
Last time I did mine (gasket & seal replacing job) after a few attempts I strung the box up vertically with my engine crane. The TC went on so easily I thought something was wrong so I lifted it off & put it back on again :)
Ideally don't let it drop off the box & I made a 'T' shaped tool that fits up through the round hole in the bottom of the bellhousing & sits against the front of the TC to stop it sliding forward. The long part of the 'T' holds the TC & I drilled holes in the crosspiece of the 'T' to suit the bolts that hold the round plate that normally covers the hole. Use a decent thickness of steel as bodywork thickness will just bend & let the TC slide off....

****Ing special tool = bl**dy lazy design.
 
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