Varden Power
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- 10
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- Mauritius
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PLEASE HELP
Hi guys i'm Varden from Mauritius,
Mum had a laminectomy 2 years ago and could no more drive Manual, so we bought a Freelander 1 TD4 Jacto (Automatic) Year 2001 for her. (we’ve owned 2 freelander 1 manual in the past, very good SUV!)
The first owner did lie about the history when purchased, whereby the gearbox was slipping gears, we drove it like that in a first time for we didn't have much money to seek for a garage. It would drive up to the 3rd gear and would slip at higher rpm and then take the 4th and 5th same thing ...It recently went worst with nothing happening at higher rpm after the 3rd gear which made it impossible to drive. So we opted for a gearbox change as we could not find any good mechanic to open up the box and tell what was wrong.
The other box did drive very well for the first two days only and then the engine would not start at times and gears would go up to the 3rd smoothly , it would take the 4th and immediately pull back to the 3rd…no way to get the 4th on, even on manual it would pull back to the 3rd...we got it checked for faults...cam shaft sensor was faulty, and speed sensor faulty...we changed the cam shaft sensor and it is now starting, they also changed the speed sensor (on the wheels and cleared the faults) It drove well that day only..
The next day it would do the same thing again about the gears, taking up to the 3rd easily and pull back to the 3rd when the 4th tried to sit in. We drove it like that for some distance and keep trying the 4th on manual but in vain. It always pulled back strong to the 3rd with a loud noise when the 4th tried to sit in...so we've put it at rest..and no mechanics here have a good knowledge about this gearbox to open it up..unless change for another box again which is very expensive and not guaranteed.
I’ve also experienced that it would take the 4th gear only when the temperature is at its maximum and 5th also. However the power would be moderate at acceleration. (nothing above 120 km/h, 75 miles per hour)
I've read many of your posts and I tried for oil level checks and solenoid resistance checks...oil level checks did not change anything and solenoid and sensor resistances failed both on the barrel connection to the gearbox and the L-shaped gear box computer resistance was always exceeded.
My results
Method 1 Barrel connection:
Pin 1 - 2 = Turbine speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms) (637)
Pin 3 - 4 = Intermediate speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms) (647)
Pin 5 - 6 = Vehicle speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms) (644)
Pin 7 - 8 = Fluid temperature sensor (740) (about 50 degree)
Pin 18 is the common for all solenoid measurements.
Pin 9 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve A (14 to 18 ohms) (18.5)
Pin 10 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve B (14 to 18 ohms) (18.5)
Pin 11 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve C (14 to 18 ohms) (18.6)
Pin 12 - 18 = Low clutch timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms) (18.5)
Pin 13 - 18 = 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms) (18.5)
Pin 14 - 18 = Reduction timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms) (18.5)
Pin 15 - 18 = Line pressure duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms) (3.6)
Pin 16 - 18 = 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms) (3.6)
Pin 17 - 18 = Lock-up solenoid valve (12 to 13.2 ohms) (14.8)
Method 2: Computer Sensor resistance
Pin 5 - 20 = Vehicle speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms) (658)
Pin 21 - 20 = Intermediate speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms) (671)
Pin 24 - 20 = Turbine speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms) (642)
Pin 39 - 20 = Fluid temperature sensor (695)
Pin 17 is the common for all solenoid measurements.
Pin 3 - 17 = 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms) (4.1)
Pin 4 - 17 = 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms) (19.3)
Pin 10 - 17 = Reduction timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms) (19.2)
Pin 14 - 17 = Shift solenoid valve B (14 to 18 ohms) (19.7)
Pin 15 - 17 = Shift solenoid valve A (14 to 18 ohms) (19.7)
Pin 16 - 17 = Lock-up solenoid valve (12 to 13.2 ohms) (17.2)
Pin 17 - 18 = Line pressure duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms) (4.1)
Pin 52 - 17 = Shift solenoid valve C (14 to 18 ohms) (19.3)
Pin 53 - 17 = Low clutch timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms) (19.4)
None would be within limits
Can anyone help? Any further checks possible? I was wondering if I swap the valve box with my previous gearbox could solve the problem??
Thanks a lot!
PLEASE HELP
Hi guys i'm Varden from Mauritius,
Mum had a laminectomy 2 years ago and could no more drive Manual, so we bought a Freelander 1 TD4 Jacto (Automatic) Year 2001 for her. (we’ve owned 2 freelander 1 manual in the past, very good SUV!)
The first owner did lie about the history when purchased, whereby the gearbox was slipping gears, we drove it like that in a first time for we didn't have much money to seek for a garage. It would drive up to the 3rd gear and would slip at higher rpm and then take the 4th and 5th same thing ...It recently went worst with nothing happening at higher rpm after the 3rd gear which made it impossible to drive. So we opted for a gearbox change as we could not find any good mechanic to open up the box and tell what was wrong.
The other box did drive very well for the first two days only and then the engine would not start at times and gears would go up to the 3rd smoothly , it would take the 4th and immediately pull back to the 3rd…no way to get the 4th on, even on manual it would pull back to the 3rd...we got it checked for faults...cam shaft sensor was faulty, and speed sensor faulty...we changed the cam shaft sensor and it is now starting, they also changed the speed sensor (on the wheels and cleared the faults) It drove well that day only..
The next day it would do the same thing again about the gears, taking up to the 3rd easily and pull back to the 3rd when the 4th tried to sit in. We drove it like that for some distance and keep trying the 4th on manual but in vain. It always pulled back strong to the 3rd with a loud noise when the 4th tried to sit in...so we've put it at rest..and no mechanics here have a good knowledge about this gearbox to open it up..unless change for another box again which is very expensive and not guaranteed.
I’ve also experienced that it would take the 4th gear only when the temperature is at its maximum and 5th also. However the power would be moderate at acceleration. (nothing above 120 km/h, 75 miles per hour)
I've read many of your posts and I tried for oil level checks and solenoid resistance checks...oil level checks did not change anything and solenoid and sensor resistances failed both on the barrel connection to the gearbox and the L-shaped gear box computer resistance was always exceeded.
My results
Method 1 Barrel connection:
Pin 1 - 2 = Turbine speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms) (637)
Pin 3 - 4 = Intermediate speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms) (647)
Pin 5 - 6 = Vehicle speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms) (644)
Pin 7 - 8 = Fluid temperature sensor (740) (about 50 degree)
Pin 18 is the common for all solenoid measurements.
Pin 9 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve A (14 to 18 ohms) (18.5)
Pin 10 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve B (14 to 18 ohms) (18.5)
Pin 11 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve C (14 to 18 ohms) (18.6)
Pin 12 - 18 = Low clutch timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms) (18.5)
Pin 13 - 18 = 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms) (18.5)
Pin 14 - 18 = Reduction timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms) (18.5)
Pin 15 - 18 = Line pressure duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms) (3.6)
Pin 16 - 18 = 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms) (3.6)
Pin 17 - 18 = Lock-up solenoid valve (12 to 13.2 ohms) (14.8)
Method 2: Computer Sensor resistance
Pin 5 - 20 = Vehicle speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms) (658)
Pin 21 - 20 = Intermediate speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms) (671)
Pin 24 - 20 = Turbine speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms) (642)
Pin 39 - 20 = Fluid temperature sensor (695)
Pin 17 is the common for all solenoid measurements.
Pin 3 - 17 = 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms) (4.1)
Pin 4 - 17 = 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms) (19.3)
Pin 10 - 17 = Reduction timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms) (19.2)
Pin 14 - 17 = Shift solenoid valve B (14 to 18 ohms) (19.7)
Pin 15 - 17 = Shift solenoid valve A (14 to 18 ohms) (19.7)
Pin 16 - 17 = Lock-up solenoid valve (12 to 13.2 ohms) (17.2)
Pin 17 - 18 = Line pressure duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms) (4.1)
Pin 52 - 17 = Shift solenoid valve C (14 to 18 ohms) (19.3)
Pin 53 - 17 = Low clutch timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms) (19.4)
None would be within limits
Can anyone help? Any further checks possible? I was wondering if I swap the valve box with my previous gearbox could solve the problem??
Thanks a lot!
Last edited:
