Absolute definitive bestest method for changing automatic gearbox fluid

After spending much time trying to find the above info, I'm daring to ask if anyone can link me to the best method for changing the oil. Bearing in mind I don't have a flushing machine in my shed. Thanks in advance. Steve (2002 freelander commercial)

There's loads of threads in this forum explaining it. RAVE also includes the procedure but seems to omit the gearbox temperature part.

1. First buy a basic garden pressure sprayer, and replace the nozzle with 8mm rigid tube about 18" long.
2. Also buy an IR Thermometer, or diagnostics that can read gearbox temperature.
3. Locate correct drain plug & level plug locations. (hint both are on bottom of auto box. Undo the wrong one at your peril.)
4. Then drain old fluid & then re-fit drain plug.
5. Remove fill level plug & filler cap.
6. Put Jatco compatible fluid into the garden sprayer.
7. Insert nozzle into gearbox filler tube & pump until it drips out of level plug (unfortunately not into the tray you forgot to put under the car).
8. Start engine & warm up until gearbox is at correct temperature. (I think it's 35degC but cannot remember)
9. Add more fluid until it drips from level tube.
10. Refit level plug while engine is running.
11. Switch engine off.

Thank you. Yes that's pretty much how I did it last time. Theres so many threads with differing methods.

This link below should help some as the R40 as the same engine as the Fl1 V6 and TD4 albeit a few differences.

My ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) flush & fluid change - how to - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums (the75andztclub.co.uk)

I my experience, the Jatco box takes 3.8 to 4.2L to change, and isn't super fussy about the level being mm perfect.
It's perfectly OK to drain it, measure the quality that came out, and put back the same amount, as long as around 4L comes out.

Nodge68 said:

I my experience, the Jatco box takes 3.8 to 4.2L to change, and isn't super fussy about the level being mm perfect.
It's perfectly OK to drain it, measure the quality that came out, and put back the same amount, as long as around 4L comes out.

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So I've found the duty 2/4 solenoid has failed so decided to order a replacement which hasn't arrived as we speak. I repaired the broken tab in my solenoid as per your video on you tube but my question is, when I power the solenoid across a battery its clicks like a relay as expected, but I was expecting a heavier clunk, can you confirm if that sounds about right? Hard to tell from a message I realise but how would you describe its bench operation? Cheers

javars said:

when I power the solenoid across a battery its clicks like a relay as expected, but I was expecting a heavier clunk, can you confirm if that sounds about right? Hard to tell from a message I realise but how would you describe its bench operation?

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It clicks like a relay.
The valve is tiny, so doesn't have the mass to make a thunk, just a gentle click.

Perfect. Thanks for the reply. It's showing 2.7ohms

javars said:

Perfect. Thanks for the reply. It's showing 2.7ohms

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I can't remember the resistance of the duty solenoid, but 2.7 Ohm seems a bit low. That's over 60 Watts at battery voltage, which seems a lot for a small coil. I guess it must be correct, but it's worth checking against the specifications.

Looks OK. A bit low

New solenoid fitted. All is now well