Freelander 1 ABS sensors - which one to buy?
- Thread starter rob_bell
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Ignore manufacturers inflated air flow figures. You need find a compressor that has a decent Free Air Delivery (FAD) at X PSI. This is the air flow rate with the output open to the air. The higher the FAD the better.
A compressor that quotes displacemwnt of 10 Fpm at 120 PSI may only actually supply 7 Fpm when delivering free air output.
My compressor will supply about 12 Fpm FAD at 100 Psi. So basically it will supply 12 Fpm continuously at 100 Psi. That's more than enough for any buzz gun.
Tank size is only important if you are outstripping the compressors ability to supply the air. So the higher the FAD of the compressor's piston(s) the smaller the tank can be.
It's better to have a high FAD compressor with a smaller tank. Instead of a small FAD compressor and large tank.
For ratings. You can get roughly 4 Fpm FAD per HP. So a 3 HP compressor will give around 12 Fpm FAD.
Ignore displacement values as those are always more than the actual FAD .
A compressor that quotes displacemwnt of 10 Fpm at 120 PSI may only actually supply 7 Fpm when delivering free air output.
My compressor will supply about 12 Fpm FAD at 100 Psi. So basically it will supply 12 Fpm continuously at 100 Psi. That's more than enough for any buzz gun.
Tank size is only important if you are outstripping the compressors ability to supply the air. So the higher the FAD of the compressor's piston(s) the smaller the tank can be.
It's better to have a high FAD compressor with a smaller tank. Instead of a small FAD compressor and large tank.
For ratings. You can get roughly 4 Fpm FAD per HP. So a 3 HP compressor will give around 12 Fpm FAD.
Ignore displacement values as those are always more than the actual FAD .
Last edited:
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,357
- Location
- Northern Ireland
I bought a 240V Clarke impact gun and it works great for most things. Only things it's failed on so far are rear wheel hub nuts and a lorry wheel nuts. Both things took long and heavy breaker bars to shift. If the impact gun is the only thing that your compressor can't drive would you be better to go that way?
It doesn't seem to drive my existing windy gun to undo wheel nuts that I know are torqued to 70Nm Ali 
If it can't do basic jobs, I might be better off with a compressor that can do the job!
So far it's mostly been used with a Sealey brake vacuum bleeding tool, which it is fine for, but I have other projects which will likely need much more air than the current compressor can supply....
If it can't do basic jobs, I might be better off with a compressor that can do the job!
So far it's mostly been used with a Sealey brake vacuum bleeding tool, which it is fine for, but I have other projects which will likely need much more air than the current compressor can supply....
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,357
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Fair enough, I bought a 2nd hand 100 litre compressor a few years ago and it's been great for loads of things including spraying but I've never tried it with a windy gun. When the leccy one dies I might buy one.It doesn't seem to drive my existing windy gun to undo wheel nuts that I know are torqued to 70Nm Ali
If it can't do basic jobs, I might be better off with a compressor that can do the job!
So far it's mostly been used with a Sealey brake vacuum bleeding tool, which it is fine for, but I have other projects which will likely need much more air than the current compressor can supply....
Last edited:
I bought one of these from Machine Mart (they were discounting them) - 14.5 rated cfm
Also bough a high torque windy gun off the bay of fleas, rated close to 600Nm, so man enough for the hub nut.
Spent this morning figuring out why the gun wasn't getting enough air. I'd bought a WorkZone air hose and connectors from Lidl ages ago, and these are far too restrictive. Bought new SIP hose and connector from Halfords - problem solved. Hub nut off in moments, and the two upper hub bolts nicely loosened (they'd have put up quite a fight otherwise!)
Also bough a high torque windy gun off the bay of fleas, rated close to 600Nm, so man enough for the hub nut.
Spent this morning figuring out why the gun wasn't getting enough air. I'd bought a WorkZone air hose and connectors from Lidl ages ago, and these are far too restrictive. Bought new SIP hose and connector from Halfords - problem solved. Hub nut off in moments, and the two upper hub bolts nicely loosened (they'd have put up quite a fight otherwise!)
Now struggling with an open-ended 21mm spanner trying to loosen off the lower ball joint nut.
It isn't interested.
A bit of a rain shower now, so have left it to stew in plus gas. Might have to introduce an element of heat if that doesn't work!
It isn't interested.
A bit of a rain shower now, so have left it to stew in plus gas. Might have to introduce an element of heat if that doesn't work!
Applied some heat to the nut, and have been able to get this moving. Not removed it completely - my idea was to shock the taper joint and let it drop.
Inevitably this hasn't worked. Original 16 year old lower wishbones if think.
I've used a wedge style splitter: still no action.
Any suggestions? I'm having a cup of tea to have a think...
Inevitably this hasn't worked. Original 16 year old lower wishbones if think.
I've used a wedge style splitter: still no action.
Any suggestions? I'm having a cup of tea to have a think...
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,671
- Location
- Castleford
I just replaced my other abs sensor. I could not pull it out so leaved it somewhat using my two 19mm spanners. This time i snapped at the elbow off. So had to take brake capillar, disc off, release the two strut bolts and the hub nut. Leavering the hub off the drive shalf, I hammered the casing as much as I could to release the inners which came out but leaving the case inside the hub
On the other side I hammered the metal of the ABS casing till it was flat with a big punch and then drove it out towards where the shaft would have been. poped stright out with the aid of some loosen jucie. The old one must have been in since the car was built in 2001. It still has the Rover markings on it.Attachments
In the process of doing the same thing, but taking the opportunity to replace the lower wishbones at the same time
It's just the taper joint that doesn't want to come apart.
I'll douse it in penetrating oil and give it another go after I e finished my tea
It's just the taper joint that doesn't want to come apart.
I'll douse it in penetrating oil and give it another go after I e finished my tea
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,671
- Location
- Castleford
Hi Rob what taper joint? Can you post pick as I have done all this before and may be able to help.In the process of doing the same thing, but taking the opportunity to replace the lower wishbones at the same time
It's just the taper joint that doesn't want to come apart.
I'll douse it in penetrating oil and give it another go after I e finished my tea
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,671
- Location
- Castleford
Yeah you wont get it off like that it might have to be ground off with an angle grinder. Any how Give this a watch as it will give you ideas. Some times more work will save you time.
Just thinking about it (out loud), what I shall try is raising the hub on a jack and try the two hammer technique and see how that goes.
Just wondering having watched Bodgit's YouTube video a few times where I should get the alloy bushing? Judging how everything else is going, might be a good investment: bet the wishbone will be rust-welded into the hub!!!
Just wondering having watched Bodgit's YouTube video a few times where I should get the alloy bushing? Judging how everything else is going, might be a good investment: bet the wishbone will be rust-welded into the hub!!!
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,671
- Location
- Castleford
See you tomorrow thenWaiting for the rain to stop! Still, at least I got a few good steps along the way
