Freelander 1 ABS sensors - which one to buy?

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Thanks! :)

Now sitting in the garden with a nice cuppa. Changed the tyres and inner tubes on my push bike, so at least achieved something today! Lol ;)

Given those bolt threads a good brushing. You're right: they'd benefit with a bit more plus gas :)
 
The bits of the bolts doing the work will be fine - probably. :confused:
As for the hub nut I managed to bend a four feet 3/4" breaker bar taking one off. Mind you both me and my 6'5" son were swinging on it at the time with a pipe extending it by another 3 - 4 feet. :eek:
 
Wish I had some scaffold pipe, but as it happens I would still have been scuppered by the lack of a 20mm spanner for the lower ball joint!

Treated myself to a high-torque air impact wrench, this time rated to 650Nm! ;) Going to be a while before that arrives. In the mean time, a 20mm combination spanner is on the way, so hopefully I can change the lower wishbone before getting the hub off to muller the old ABS sensor out...
 
Hmm... just returning to the mud/dust shield a moment, it appears that the Rimmers Part catalogue only shows them fitted up until 2000 on the YA chassis codes. Mine is a 2001, with a 1A chassis number. I'm not going to bother paying over 50 quid for a bit of tin that Land Rover themselves deleted from later production, but just a bit surprised. Is mine a transition car?
 
rob_bell said:
a 20mm combination spanner
Click to expand...

I am sure you have thought of this,

But be careful if they are very tight, a combi spanner is normally a 12 sided one on the ring end. Altho, sometimes they are flank drive. You may run the risk of rounding the nut off if you try an old fashioned ring spanner.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
I am sure you have thought of this,

But be careful if they are very tight, a combi spanner is normally a 12 sided one on the ring end. Altho, sometimes they are flank drive. You may run the risk of rounding the nut off if you try an old fashioned ring spanner.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Good point! Most of my tools are intentionally 6-point for this reason. But there is no way I can get a socket on it :( Other than messing with an open-end side of the spanner, any thoughts on what to use? I should probably have another look to see whether I can get a 6-point 20mm ring spanner (if such a thing exists?)
 
rob_bell said:
Good point! Most of my tools are intentionally 6-point for this reason. But there is no way I can get a socket on it :( Other than messing with an open-end side of the spanner, any thoughts on what to use? I should probably have another look to see whether I can get a 6-point 20mm ring spanner (if such a thing exists?)
Click to expand...

You may be lucky to find a 6 sided ring spanner, but I find a flank drive cmbi spanner works quite well.

Are you sure a 6 sided socket cannot get you enough contact to get it turning?

Cheers
 
rob_bell said:
Hmm... just returning to the mud/dust shield a moment, it appears that the Rimmers Part catalogue only shows them fitted up until 2000 on the YA chassis codes. Mine is a 2001, with a 1A chassis number. I'm not going to bother paying over 50 quid for a bit of tin that Land Rover themselves deleted from later production, but just a bit surprised. Is mine a transition car?
Click to expand...
Mine is a 2001 TD4 and it has them, mine are also falling apart and could not get the nuts off the shield but managed to get around it without taking it off in the end. I thought you had to have the splash shield for its MOT? If not then I will get rid of mine as soon as I do the next job down there but could do with somebody confirming this :)
 
I can't actually get the socket in due to the proximity of the drive shaft immediately above. Hmmm... there are a youtube videos on replacing the lower wishbone. I'll take another look at them to see how others have done it :)

I don't think that the splash guard is necessary for the MoT - none of my other cars with disc brakes have them fitted... :)
 
neilly said:
I am sure you have thought of this,

But be careful if they are very tight, a combi spanner is normally a 12 sided one on the ring end. Altho, sometimes they are flank drive. You may run the risk of rounding the nut off if you try an old fashioned ring spanner.

Cheers
Click to expand...

I've never come across a really tight lower ball joint nut on a FL1 or most other cars too. Sure they can rust in place, but I've never found them tight. I put this down to the taper seating a bit deaper in use. This lowers the clamping load and nut release torque.

Now a drive shaft nut, well those can be really very tight. Or the opposite and come off really easy. It's a bit of pot luck with them.
 
Madmustang said:
Mine is a 2001 TD4 and it has them, mine are also falling apart and could not get the nuts off the shield but managed to get around it without taking it off in the end. I thought you had to have the splash shield for its MOT? If not then I will get rid of mine as soon as I do the next job down there but could do with somebody confirming this :)
Click to expand...
My 05 has splash guards at the moment. They were sound when I refurbished the front brakes last September.
20170508_124447.jpg
 
rob_bell said:
I can't actually get the socket in due to the proximity of the drive shaft immediately above. Hmmm... there are a youtube videos on replacing the lower wishbone. I'll take another look at them to see how others have done it :)

What I had to do in the end was to remove the brake caliper. Undo the two strut bolts holding the hub to the shock bottom (Support the brake caliper with a bungee). Undo the two strut bolts holding the hub to the shock bottom (Put a jack underit for support). Undo Drive shaft nut as well. Then I was able to get at the wishbone nut. After that it was dead easy ;)
Click to expand...
 
lol - piece of cake then! ;)

I'll try the spanner approach first. If that looks like it is starting to fail, I'll go with your method! :)
 
neilly said:
You may be lucky to find a 6 sided ring spanner, but I find a flank drive cmbi spanner works quite well.

Are you sure a 6 sided socket cannot get you enough contact to get it turning?

Cheers
Click to expand...
I think I normally use an open jaw spanner for this job, I don't think I was able to get a ring spanner over it.
 
As I wait for all the parts to arrive, made another discovery: my existing air impact wrench didn't even have enough power to undo the wheel nuts on my MG.

This struck me as odd - because the Sealey gun I was using should easily cope with the wheel nuts (I was use a torque wrench to set these, so I know they're not too tight). I didn't think that the windy-gun was at fault (it sounded fine in operation, and fundamentally a simple thing). So I rechecked the flow rates of the Clarke compressor - and it is woefully under-rated. Ooops.

I'll need about 8cfm air delivery - has anyone got any thoughts or experience with particular brands of compressors? The cheapest I've found is a "Cobra" which has a range of reviews on eBay and Amazon, but mostly good (people pleased with the value of a 9+ cfm compressor at just £75), but some less good.

I don't use air tools that often - so for occasional use would this be any good? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-COBRA...476087?hash=item1c6939bdb7:g:fxcAAOSwGIRXa~la
 
rob_bell said:
As I wait for all the parts to arrive, made another discovery: my existing air impact wrench didn't even have enough power to undo the wheel nuts on my MG.

This struck me as odd - because the Sealey gun I was using should easily cope with the wheel nuts (I was use a torque wrench to set these, so I know they're not too tight). I didn't think that the windy-gun was at fault (it sounded fine in operation, and fundamentally a simple thing). So I rechecked the flow rates of the Clarke compressor - and it is woefully under-rated. Ooops.

I'll need about 8cfm air delivery - has anyone got any thoughts or experience with particular brands of compressors? The cheapest I've found is a "Cobra" which has a range of reviews on eBay and Amazon, but mostly good (people pleased with the value of a 9+ cfm compressor at just £75), but some less good.

I don't use air tools that often - so for occasional use would this be any good? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-COBRA...476087?hash=item1c6939bdb7:g:fxcAAOSwGIRXa~la
Click to expand...
My half pence worth here. I bought a 24L compressor from lidl last year with all the tools. I thought...This lot will come in handy for when I am working on the Freelander. WRONG! It’s a part con. The tools need at least a 50L (More like 100L) Compressor in order to keep the tools supplied with enough air flow to make them work. That 24L comp will be good for a spray gun or as an overpriced beach ball inflator but not much else.
 
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