4.4 rv8 build thread (Doc evil need not post)

[jamesmartin]

scrub previous posts 1.65 is 65 thou, i thought it was a lot more, stick with that preload reduces over time as things wear

 

[fett]

so thick in both to give me 20 thou or a little less preload to start with and then more as things bed in?

 

[jamesmartin]

so thick in both to give me 20 thou or a little less preload to start with and then more as things bed in?

id go with the thinner shims that give the 60 thou ish ,it seemed a lot in mm when i first read it but it doesnt look bad when you convert to thou

 

[fett]

ahh so 1.6+ is ok then?

ok so medium on one side and thick on the other it is then, odd its worked out that way

 

[jamesmartin]

ahh so 1.6+ is ok then?

ok so medium on one side and thick on the other it is then, odd its worked out that way

would seem your best option ,heads and block etc will have rover tolerancesyou will get quite a lot of oil flowing from main bearing

 

[fett]

bit confused now as just been out and its medium on both sides lol. was rushed out the door yesterday so didnt write it down, early onset dementia I reckon lol.

so a thinner shim gives me more clearance?

if so I will go with the medium shims both sides

 

[jamesmartin]

thinner gives more preload, thicker less,id err on the more preload than less

 

[fett]

ok so mediums can stay in then! id better start putting her together!

 

[jamesmartin]

as long as they give enough preload

 

[fett]

mediums give 0.52 to 1.65mm according to the welding wire that enough?

 

[jamesmartin]

plenty ,so your sorted

 

[fett]

Ok cool thanks mate, next question is that the cam stub is 3mm shorter than the chain sprocket cam wheel and dizzy drive gear. some pics here :-

http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/f...75-4BE2-8006-02C216086D7D.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

Is this normal?

pack it out with washers? I hope the gear will still be in the right place to meet the dizzy lol

 

[jamesmartin]

skew gear has to sit proud so bolt can put pressure on gear and sprocket etc, how much depends on cam and and other parts been made to correct tolerance and fitted correctly

 

[discomark10]

seems normal

 

[fett]

nice one gents, all lifters in and set up and front drive sorted, rear crank main seal adjusted and on to the timing cover and inlet thursday - oo its getting close after all this downtime.

Just debating, wether to build a test rig or put it in the car with the new box from james on straight away, would be a fecker if rear crank oil seal leaked but also would be a fecker if test rig blew it up due to poor cooling or the like

 

[Dr_evil]

Test rig is simple enough and fairly safe. Standard set up seems to be, electric fan to push air through the rad too if wanted, keep viscous on engine, larger than normal rad can be used for the engine due to it being stationary but normal one should be fine then most have a temp, oil pressure and rev counter on the gauge pod

Just make sure its got a decent base on it so it wont break!

 

[fett]

well iver engine feet/trolly can build rad mount easy enough but fan and all guages still on car, an im not sure I would want to try and wire oil temp/pressure and engine temp unless one of you lot can help me

maybe easier to put it in car with box on and if it feckes up take it out- hmm dunno

 

[discomark10]

You could fit it in the rrc but leave the box out.

 

[Dr_evil]

if you're willing to spend a little for a set of aftermarket gauges TIM mechanical capillary gauges are £23 a pop for both oil pressure and coolant temp

rev counter I suppose you don't really need as long as you don't plan on revving the nuts off it when testing but for breaking in the cam it may be worthwhile picking up a decent secondhand standalone

I have an autometer in the series that came with it, £120 new they are but smiths classic style standalone ones for rally style mini's and classic sportsters are about £50 on ebay

 

[discomark10]

The rev counter is dont from the alternator. You could run a long wire and get someone to help u keep an eye on the revs