4.4 rv8 build thread (Doc evil need not post)

[fett]

Well gents I thought you might like a new proper thread with less bollocks and more engine pics.

I will start by saying that the plan was originally to clean it and change the rocker cover, sump and front cover gasket get the carb re-built and drop it in when my new box arrives.

Tonight I popped out when I got home and though I will just whip the carb off ready for the re-furbishers- oh yeah , we all know how that goes.

Carb off in 5 mins, oh yeah I will just take the rocker covers off so I can take em in to work next week and clean em if I get 5.

Anyway , it looks like when Dunsfolds jet washed it some got inside and condensated up to the top of the rocker gear.

The bad news is it was 6 out of 8 cylinders worth in varying degrees, the good news is I caught it in time I hope (james and wammers glad of your opinions

Land Rover Zone - fett's Album: p76 strip

Although the pushrods (hollow on these motors) are corroded where they are exposed in the rocker box the very end where it seats in the arm looks still shiny as does the arm, although the arm is corroded elsewhere.

Do you agree it will run ok with this as the face hardening on the wear points should be ok? I need to get all the flakes of rust from the compression test out of that area with my little magnet (glad I didnt run it now lol)

Whats the best way to get the rust off the steel parts without damaging the wear points that are still ok?

degrease and then a soak in cola?

Glad of your thoughts gents

 

[jamesmartin]

youd think they would know better than to steam clean anything that wasnt going to be run or stripped straight away,luckily as you say wear faces are clean ,wire wheel the rods or glass bead in shot blast cabinet ,but weak acid works ,it looks like rust is just in the very top every where else seem free of it ?

 

[200tdi ayre]

I agree with James just seems like light rusting at the top, some careful cleaning should sort that right out

 

[3.5 efi]

i'd clean the push rods on a wire wheel.

 

[fett]

Ok , thanks gets- just so happens we have a wide wheel at work so bonus I will tape up the very top incase I slip. Im sure I will get laughed a for taking that box in with them all sticking out lol.

what about the rocker arms? bit more tricky to get in to and plenty of rust to get off them.

I agree- Glad I caught it when I did or I would have been in a world of hurt!

 

[fett]

oh yeah and the rest looks ok atm btw

funny how it was the tops lol. I really need to get a boroscope but not cheap lol

 

[3.5 efi]

i'd wire wheel them too.

 

[fett]

it may be hard to A. get in there and B. not bugger the seat for the pushrod

Thats why I was wondering about the coke (we have lots of pepsi left from New year etc)

However has anyone actually tired it? and would it knacker the wear face lol

 

[jamesmartin]

it may be hard to A. get in there and B. not bugger the seat for the pushrod

Thats why I was wondering about the coke (we have lots of pepsi left from New year etc)

However has anyone actually tired it? and would it knacker the wear face lol

wire wheel wont hurt the wearing surfaces ,ive allways cleaned them that way as with valves etc

 

[3.5 efi]

just get some of them little soft bristled wire brushes

 

[fett]

on the wire wheel its a steel wire one and Quite big

I could go mandrolic with a brass toothbrush sized one I have but I was hoping to avoid as there are 12 to do lol

 

[jamesmartin]

on the wire wheel its a steel wire one and Quite big

I could go mandrolic with a brass toothbrush sized one I have but I was hoping to avoid as there are 12 to do lol

i use std wire wheel its not as harsh as youd imagine unless you put skin in it

 

[fett]

lol, true dat

its worse when they fire off

 

[fett]

This one has deffo been apart before btw

its got each inlet number on the fanimould and one side matches the numbers engraved on the arms but the other side has the other numbers on the fanimould but the same numbers on the arms lol.

also one or more did not have the flanged nuts it should but a couple of washers/lock washers and a nut lol


Land Rover Zone - fett's Album: nuts - Picture

 

[jamesmartin]

This one has deffo been apart before btw

its got each inlet number on the fanimould and one side matches the numbers engraved on the arms but the other side has the other numbers on the fanimould but the same numbers on the arms lol.

also one or more did not have the flanged nuts it should but a couple of washers/lock washers and a nut lol


Land Rover Zone - fett's Album: nuts - Picture

as long as it wasnt messed with in cumbria

 

[fett]

PMSL

, I noticed one of the pushrods had a small pit on it- from wear I would say. can they be changed without changing the followers or arms? and so I have re-st any clearances if I do?

 

[jamesmartin]

is it that bad it needs changing ,whats it use hyd or screw adjuster followers,in an ideal world youd change to mating wearing surfaces for new if one was poor but in reallity mixing new with a good old will last a long time though new with poor old wont

 

[fett]

is not too bad- hard to get a pic with flashback, I tried about 8 times lol tbh its go to be the easiest internal bit to change with it back together if it did fail- maybe I will just run it. I would say it was .75mm by 2mm from memory

 

[fett]

Ok well all 12 of the rods cleaned up today, the tops look good, the sides were pitted on some with the rust that bad though.

Got 4 rocker arm sets done today, the easy ones lol- got 8 more to do tomorrow

Then I just need to put it back in!

 

[jonnyt]

I know Sam will be along in a minute to make comment but while its on the bench is it not worth whipping the inlet manifold and heads off. You can then check the cam and followers and replace the head gasket. For a couple of hours work while its on a stand (v. it being a real pain when its in) I'd want to have a look, particularly as you've now found a bit of water ingress (albeit it all looks like its pretty minor and no damage has been done). New gaskets will be cheaper than buying a boroscope....

You could then get the heads skimmed to take composite gaskets and while you're doing it you could up the CR a little bit and then..... Ok I'll stop but I'd still do what I've said I'd do in the first paragraph!! ;-)