3.5 V8 Rebuild

Had some more time to strip the injin down a bit more, had a problem with a couple bolts, I also checked the bores for roundness, they were all about the same no more than 0.03mm wider one way compared to the other, so pretty round i would of though? Also checked the crank for roundness, it was pretty much perfect, which is a result, made a start on cleaning the pistons up with old snapped rings... what bitch of a job! the old oil/crud build-up in the grooves takes some scraping!
As you can see the usual thing with the chain and followers.
The distributor drive gear looks shiny but not warn, so I think im happy to just re-use it

Few things i could do with a second (or more) opinion on, the water pump impella, has a few chips on the ends, also the face that the impella meets has corroded bit, its strange material.. almost plastic like. The old man suggested repairing it with some chemical metal.
The oil pump (which is also in rather good condition has a few chips on the tips, will that be a problem?
I sheered a head of the longest bolt that goes into the water pump housing (going to need a replacement) where can I get one? and what's it called?
similar thing with a oil pump bolt, was a bitch to get out and bent it a lil bit.

where did you measure bores ? just below top part swept by rings

jamesmartin said:

where did you measure bores ? just below top part swept by rings

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yea, but ill have another go tomorrow with different tool to double check, better to be safe than sorry :fighting2:

whatt did you use to measure something like this http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...FJ9IOBg4js233mFRg&sig2=o9iXBE-A4SRX0Dh9ddZhjQ

jamesmartin said:

whatt did you use to measure something like this http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...FJ9IOBg4js233mFRg&sig2=o9iXBE-A4SRX0Dh9ddZhjQ

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lol no, a modified vernier

you need a proper tool to get below ridge ,worst will be at top 90 degrees to crank when you take a skim out of a worn bore you end up with a triangle shaped point down,part untouched by tool with biggest on thrust side and a smaller one on opposite side

Couple of points.

You must use new lifters with your new cam. The bases can get impregnated with old cam material that will trash the new one potentially - not worth the risk.
A new chain and gears is not much money - there's too much play in that one as you'd expect.

Agree with James about measuring the bores and crank - a vernier just isn't accurate enough for taking measurements on either.

As for the oil pump - put 'blue printing an oil pump' in to google. One of the first that comes up I a great site and it will give you all the relevant clearances. Let me know if you can't find it (on phone at moment!) The oil pump isn't really a visual inspection - you need to measure the clearances between the housing and the gears, the lash between the gears, and the end clearance to the base of the pump - the bit you haven't taken a picture of! That anodized base is the most susceptible area - you can measure that clearance using plasti gauge.

Water pump bolt is standard - they corrode a lot. Bit concerned by the oil pump bolt though. That should be easy to get out.

There are various things you can do to that if it is too worn.

Jon

The other part for the oil pump hasn't been cleaned up yet ill try get a pic today.. the oil pump bolt was in there, I could feel if I put any more stress on it, it would sheer so I ended up using a blow torch on the pump housing to free it up.... which worked!
Is there anywhere that I can get hold of a cheap tool to measure the bore or mabey even make / rent one.
Ill check out that site to bp the pump thx

Hi Mark,

You need a proper internal micrometer to measure the bores. Making something isn't going to work - you'd have to buy one or rent one (i haven't got one or you could come over). For fear of repetition t&l would measure it all up for free after they've dipped it.....

Jon

Would a digital vernier be any good for measuring bores?

fett said:

Would a digital vernier be any good for measuring bores?

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thats what i used 1st of all, but it cannot reach far down to get a decent reading, gona try somthing else when im off next

I wonder what you could get to do it that isnt silly money?

The only way you'll get close is a very high quality pair of internal callipers that adjust by a screw mechanism so you can lock it out. You can then measure that with a micrometer. As James has said you'll need to measure at different places on the bore.

The problem with a vernier is that you are only measuring the part of the bore not swept by the rings.

jonnyt said:

The only way you'll get close is a very high quality pair of internal callipers that adjust by a screw mechanism so you can lock it out. You can then measure that with a micrometer. As James has said you'll need to measure at different places on the bore.

The problem with a vernier is that you are only measuring the part of the bore not swept by the rings.

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I agree about the cost bit, thats my beef! The old man sujested a set of verners with extended bits so you can get right down, you can get a set of verners for about 5-10 quid on ebay which could be modified.

I just cant justify about 100 notes on a proper one!:violent:

Get a decent vernier and weld the appropriate jaws on, then see about machining them?

yeah that would stay straight with welding

might cook the display on a digital one

fett said:

yeah that would stay straight with welding

might cook the display on a digital one

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yea true, have to remove it 1st lol

it would need recalibrating after welding, not sure it would be acurate enough for the measurements we are talking about

Pah, even if it warps it would not warp back.

Ok get a dial vernier, I prefer them anyway. Not sure on accuracy though, mine 'only' measures down to 0.01mm

Ah **** it just get some new rings in and be done.

You'll want a 4.6 before you get round to needing to re-rebuild it anyway!

discomark10 said:

I agree about the cost bit, thats my beef! The old man sujested a set of verners with extended bits so you can get right down, you can get a set of verners for about 5-10 quid on ebay which could be modified.

I just cant justify about 100 notes on a proper one!:violent:

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its not right down that the greatest wear is ,its at the top most part of ring swept part on thrust side ,no wear occurs fore and aft of bore or at lower parts