110 Short Nose Rear Diff Outer Bearing Removam

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
bankz5152

bankz5152

Well-Known Member
Posts
9,391
Location
South London/North Kent
Evening,

Me rear diff sounds like someone is playing wheel of fortune!



I reckon the outer bearing has been damaged/ failing. So stripped it down far as I could but cant work out how to remove the outer bearing, how is it done?

Basically what happened, I was going up a steep cross axleing hill, which managed to utterly destroy the rear trailing arm bushes, which in turn managed to move the axle forward around an inch at least, which has put undue pressure on the diff. Resulting in this noise...
 
id pull the whole diff out and after marking the caps remove diff carrier and then pinion and replace both pinion bearings, if you use timken the shims you have should be ok
 
Oh my thats not something ive done before and a tad pressed on time. Ideally thats what i would do, plan was to replace the outer bearing, which I have, see if that solves the issue. If not new diff then rebuild when I have time
 
You can't get the bearing out without stripping the whole thing down, but diff rebuilding isn't that hard or time-consuming, just follow the manual. I'll post you my home made tools if you like (and I can find them after my recent move). For now you should bung a s/hand one in.
 
its quite a simple job as long as you use timken bearings ,4 bolts removes caps and then diff carrier lifts out,pinion will pull out and bearing races punched out you need a bearing separator to remove inner pinion bearing from pinion and new one will need pressing or knocking on, once pinion bearing races and shim has been fitted you tighten pinion nut and check it turns with some preload and no free play but turns smoothly, you can then undo and fit seal then refit flange etc,diff carrier is fitted and caps but only nipped up lightly you adjust the nut mearest the crown wheel till any freeplay has been eliminated the tighten the other adjuster till the correct backlash is achieved bolts can then be fully tightened and adjusters locked, you need to make a tool to adjust the nuts
 
Doesn't take too long, honestly. At least it is on the back so all you need to do is pull the halfshafts out a few inches to allow the diff to come out. In the front there would be a lot more dismantling. I found the most time consuming thing was getting the nuts off which hold the diff carrier to the axle casing. Some of them were so rusty they wouldn't come off so needed to be chiselled. Once that's done the diff mechanism comes apart fairly easily because everything is nice and oily.
 
Well this was supprisingly easy!

1508326217093603865212.jpg


Stripped the diff down as far as I could, need to get a bearing puller now.

Everything looks alright internally but both bearings have alot of play so need to be replaced.
 
I did indeed.

There weren't many bits to it, I marked the brackets that hold the carrier in place, then put the bolts back in to the same one they came out of.

The bearing spacer had a groove facing toward the diff center everything else can only go back in one way

Well this seems to be a bit of a waste of time! £65 for the bearings (STC1156 & STC2808) I can get a whole diff delivered for £75...
 
Last edited:
bankz5152 said:
I did indeed.

There weren't many bits to it, I marked the brackets that hold the carrier in place, then put the bolts back in to the same one they came out of.

The bearing spacer had a groove facing toward the diff center everything else can only go back in one way

Well this seems to be a bit of a waste of time! £65 for the bearings (STC1156 & STC2808) I can get a whole diff delivered for £75...
Click to expand...
with the chance its as worn as yours bearing wise
 
There! I said it wasn't too hard.
If you're ordering bearings, you might as well get a couple of the big ones that the diff itself runs in. I think mine were only about £20 for a pair.
The only difficult bit, as you've mentioned, is that the bearing races sit quite tight against the shoulders of the components, so there isn't much room to get the jaws of a puller in.
Why not bend the plastic at Ashcroft and get a nice new limited slip diff mechanism? Go on, you know you want to.
 
@Brown honestly mate if I had the money Id be going for an Xcess4x4 pegged LSD ultimate build!!

But yes! Supprisingly easy, i did have a gander at the main bearings they seem tight, at least good enough to last until I go for the above!

Hopefully next year.....
 
I may have been a bit of a tw at....

I remove the "pumpkins" without counting how many turns to remove :oops::oops::oops:

So now im not sure how they go back in!

I read should be 3 turns either side?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
2010 Freelander 2 manual 2.2 clunk rear diff or Haldex
Replies
9
Views
3K
coltron1
C
R
Freelander 1 Rear diff bracket and prop support bracket bushings u/s - poss damage to diff?
Replies
13
Views
2K
Rob Burns
R
xDParis64
Freelander 1 Converting from wasted spark to distributor (or Visa Versa)
Replies
0
Views
768
xDParis64
xDParis64
A
200tdi - Sheared Differential Cross Shaft - Why?
Replies
4
Views
1K
freelance
freelance
C
Rear Diff pinion bearing replacement help
Replies
12
Views
4K
Career 707
C
Back
Top