110 Short Nose Rear Diff Outer Bearing Removam

Spinning it with me drill, theres still a clunky kind of noise, have i done something wrong?

If you've followed the book of words it's not really a question of what it sounds like in competition with yer drill, more like what does it feel like as you spin it by hand (with plenty of oil chucked in). Should be very smooth, no tight spots and almost undetectable backlash between crown and pinion. As I was told by the guru (JM) there's not a lot you can realistically do about play in the spur gears.

Good to know! Just waiting on new nuts, hopefully have it back together sunday!

Diff is finally back. This has been exhausting!

According to me dial gauge .25 on the teeth and .1 lateral movement, should should be alright I hope.

Just waiting for the sealant to dry and I can road test it tomorrow. Gave it a spin by hand no horrible noise as it had before. So fingers crossed.

No joy. Noise still remains, slightly less noisey but still remains. Deffo the pinion area, makes the noise with both rear wheels off the ground, out of gear, diff lock off. Spin the wheels noise. Hand brake on, so the prop cant move. Spin the wheels and noise happens!

At this point im going to drop the rear prop and get the diff rebuilt with an LSD by a pro.

bankz5152 said:

I may have been a bit of a tw at....

I remove the "pumpkins" without counting how many turns to remove

So now im not sure how they go back in!

I read should be 3 turns either side?

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do you mean the adjuster nuts, they are adjustable for a reason which isnt by counting turns

bankz5152 said:

Spinning it with me drill, theres still a clunky kind of noise, have i done something wrong?

Click to expand...

looks to be no preload on the bearings

jamesmartin said:

do you mean the adjuster nuts, they are adjustable for a reason which isnt by counting turns

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Yeah, i found that in the end, set them up with a dial gauge best I could.

Pinion bearing consisted of a spacer on the inner bearing inbetween the casing and race.

No spacer on the outer bearing.

One large thick spacer in between the inner and outer bearing.

Then a massive washer holding the flange on with a nut, which was done up tight.

bankz5152 said:

Yeah, i found that in the end, set them up with a dial gauge best I could.

Pinion bearing consisted of a spacer on the inner bearing inbetween the casing and race.

No spacer on the outer bearing.

One large thick spacer in between the inner and outer bearing.

Then a massive washer holding the flange on with a nut, which was done up tight.

Click to expand...

did you wind crown wheel side spacer until no free play ,then fit and adjust the other adjuster till the correct free play was achieved,thats were the preload is achieved

Yeah, at least I think I did... Though what is the correct free play?

There was almost zero movement when back together.

bankz5152 said:

Yeah, at least I think I did... Though what is the correct free play?

There was almost zero movement when back together.

Click to expand...

4-7 thou the amounts adjustable and without the correct peload unimportant, there is a lot of force put through a bevel gear

bankz5152 said:

Yeah, at least I think I did... Though what is the correct free play?

There was almost zero movement when back together.

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did you make a tool to tighten the adjuster nuts, mines 2ft long and then it feel to short at times

I used an angle grinder key, seemed to fit and work well.

Given up on this now. I cant bare to remove and refit the diff again without any certainty it will work.

So going for a pegged Ash ATB from Megasquirt.

bankz5152 said:

So going for a pegged Ash ATB from Megasquirt.

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You were just looking for an excuse, think of it is an early Xmas present...

Cheers

Third person to say that!

I guess it is!!

If the bearings on the pinion shaft and the diff carrier feel smooth but slightly stiff then they're probably OK.The mechanism stopped going round as soon as the drill stopped, so that's probably the case. If it ran on it would suggest its a bit loose. The fact that you've got noise when the propshaft is locked and the halfshafts are rotating suggests that it is something in the interior of the diff mechanism. Because then the pinion and crown wheel can't be moving.

In terms of adjustment the other thing I noticed is that it depends how tight the cap bolts are too. I did them up moderately tight and adjusted the adjusters for best feel. Then put the final few newton metres on them with a torque wrench and all of a sudden everything was too tight. When everything's right on the limit, a tiny change can make a lot of difference to the feel of bearings and gears.

May have mistyped before.

Prop locked - No noise
Prop free - Same noise as before, just slightly quieter.

Which lead me to believe the pinion/bearing/crown/races/casing are damaged in some way (not that my untrained eye I could see anyway)

I did the bolt caps up to 90nm as stated in the workshop manual, checked the adjustment, seemed to be the same.

I'm more than happy giving most jobs a go at least once, for the most part in the past 5/6 years of landy ownership I've succeeded! However I think diffs/gearboxes etc... may well be out of my expertise!

I did always plan on having a rear Megasquirt/Ash ATB diff just wasnt planning on it right now! Doors are in a bit of a state and need welding but that will have to wait for now.

bankz5152 said:

May have mistyped before.

Prop locked - No noise
Prop free - Same noise as before, just slightly quieter.

Click to expand...

Probably a silly question but have you checked the splines of the pinion and prop flange, and the UJ for tiny movements? Might not be enough to cause a problem, but might make a noise ..

I did check that too, very tight fitting. The splines on both ends look brand new!