110 Short Nose Rear Diff Outer Bearing Removam

Evening,

Me rear diff sounds like someone is playing wheel of fortune!



I reckon the outer bearing has been damaged/ failing. So stripped it down far as I could but cant work out how to remove the outer bearing, how is it done?

Basically what happened, I was going up a steep cross axleing hill, which managed to utterly destroy the rear trailing arm bushes, which in turn managed to move the axle forward around an inch at least, which has put undue pressure on the diff. Resulting in this noise...

id pull the whole diff out and after marking the caps remove diff carrier and then pinion and replace both pinion bearings, if you use timken the shims you have should be ok

Oh my thats not something ive done before and a tad pressed on time. Ideally thats what i would do, plan was to replace the outer bearing, which I have, see if that solves the issue. If not new diff then rebuild when I have time

You can't get the bearing out without stripping the whole thing down, but diff rebuilding isn't that hard or time-consuming, just follow the manual. I'll post you my home made tools if you like (and I can find them after my recent move). For now you should bung a s/hand one in.

Very kind indeed! Ok ive gotcha ill have a hunt around for one!

its quite a simple job as long as you use timken bearings ,4 bolts removes caps and then diff carrier lifts out,pinion will pull out and bearing races punched out you need a bearing separator to remove inner pinion bearing from pinion and new one will need pressing or knocking on, once pinion bearing races and shim has been fitted you tighten pinion nut and check it turns with some preload and no free play but turns smoothly, you can then undo and fit seal then refit flange etc,diff carrier is fitted and caps but only nipped up lightly you adjust the nut mearest the crown wheel till any freeplay has been eliminated the tighten the other adjuster till the correct backlash is achieved bolts can then be fully tightened and adjusters locked, you need to make a tool to adjust the nuts

Cheers! Though for now i will replace and rebuild when I can!

Doesn't take too long, honestly. At least it is on the back so all you need to do is pull the halfshafts out a few inches to allow the diff to come out. In the front there would be a lot more dismantling. I found the most time consuming thing was getting the nuts off which hold the diff carrier to the axle casing. Some of them were so rusty they wouldn't come off so needed to be chiselled. Once that's done the diff mechanism comes apart fairly easily because everything is nice and oily.

Cheers guys. Ill strip the diff down as far as i can go, so if I cant find one I can rebuild it

Well this was supprisingly easy!



Stripped the diff down as far as I could, need to get a bearing puller now.

Everything looks alright internally but both bearings have alot of play so need to be replaced.

I hope you marked where it all came from...

Cheers

I did indeed.

There weren't many bits to it, I marked the brackets that hold the carrier in place, then put the bolts back in to the same one they came out of.

The bearing spacer had a groove facing toward the diff center everything else can only go back in one way

Well this seems to be a bit of a waste of time! £65 for the bearings (STC1156 & STC2808) I can get a whole diff delivered for £75...

bankz5152 said:

I did indeed.

There weren't many bits to it, I marked the brackets that hold the carrier in place, then put the bolts back in to the same one they came out of.

The bearing spacer had a groove facing toward the diff center everything else can only go back in one way

Well this seems to be a bit of a waste of time! £65 for the bearings (STC1156 & STC2808) I can get a whole diff delivered for £75...

Click to expand...

with the chance its as worn as yours bearing wise

Very good point. Bearings it is then!

bankz5152 said:

Well this seems to be a bit of a waste of time! £65 for the bearings (STC1156 & STC2808) I can get a whole diff delivered for £75...

Click to expand...

Same reason I got a second hand one the other week when my diff went pop. £45 , job done.

Cheers

There! I said it wasn't too hard.
If you're ordering bearings, you might as well get a couple of the big ones that the diff itself runs in. I think mine were only about £20 for a pair.
The only difficult bit, as you've mentioned, is that the bearing races sit quite tight against the shoulders of the components, so there isn't much room to get the jaws of a puller in.
Why not bend the plastic at Ashcroft and get a nice new limited slip diff mechanism? Go on, you know you want to.

@Brown honestly mate if I had the money Id be going for an Xcess4x4 pegged LSD ultimate build!!

But yes! Supprisingly easy, i did have a gander at the main bearings they seem tight, at least good enough to last until I go for the above!

Hopefully next year.....

I may have been a bit of a tw at....

I remove the "pumpkins" without counting how many turns to remove

So now im not sure how they go back in!

I read should be 3 turns either side?

look at post #6 or have a read of the rave manual.

numpty....LOL.

Cheers

Yes total numpty

I didnt realise they screwed in when i stripped it....

So no freeplay at all but not super tight?