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As you will know it is not easy to clean the inside of the crossmember. There is a hole just where the cross member joins the chassis legs. I poke my pressure washer in there and give it a good blast. I keep the wheels on so of course my pressure washer is at an angle when I poke it in and anyway the best angle you could get even if you took the wheel off would be around ninety degrees to the cross member. But my pressure washer has a huge amount of flow and pressure of 3.500 psi (sorry - don't do bar I'm a psi man), So the water blast ricochets around and is generally very effective at cleaning out that cavity. If the cross member is really bunged up with heavy clay I might have to jet wash into the holes on the back of the chassis as well. And then very rarely if there is still some gunge in there when I come to inject I get a flat bladed screwdriver and airline into the little holes at the back.

Re: inside of chassis rails, well the place the mud tends to build up is in that hole at the back of the chassis. (On the driver's side the hole is for the loom to come out). So I always get in there and give it a good blast. If the chassis is really bunged up along the whole length of it from being used by an off road animal, that is a different story. That might take a good hour of trying to blast into the various holes along the chassis. It's very laborious and you have to do it until you see clean water running out of the holes underneath the chassis.
 

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1. The rust, to use a word the OP is fond of was "horrendous" . It took hours of very hard work to blast it all off. Now, that it's covered with a coating, Mr. Richard Smith of Durham claims that "it wasn't too bad". No-one else in the country apart from myself would have the equipment needed to blast off the rust like this and no-one else would have touched it. Without my work the vehicle was heading pretty quickly to the scrap yard. Mr. Smith complains about a hole blasted in the filler pipe. I was not aware of this having happened or I would have told him about it. But it's not my responsibility. If you have such a rusty vehicle, my pressure washer is going to make holes. There is no point in doing it unless the rust is blasted off and if there is some rot, this will I'm afraid become apparent. To blame me for the rot is unfair to say the least!

2. This is a vehicle that is 15 foot long and nearly 6 feet wide. So at least 80 square feet of rust to blast off and then coat on the underbody, not counting probably another 50 square fee to cover in the cavities, sills, door, box section, tailgate etc.. There are hundreds of fittings underneath which require spraying from several angles. There will inevitably be a few, hopefully small, areas missed and my terms and conditions, which Mr. Smith signed, make this clear. While I admit that there are some small areas missed, there are some things in Mr. Smith's account which I know to be untrue, "...nothing in the tailgate..: for example

3. I gave a 10 year guarantee on the vehicle. The guarantee is this: "If you see any rust coming through the coating, bring it back and have it retreated free of charge. With such a rusty vehicle it is bound to need to come back for re-treatment at least once. I use £120 of materials to coat such a huge vehicle and I have around £350 of overheads a day. So this is pro-bono work. Should I stop doing such rusty vehicles when this is the gratitude I get? Should I change my marketing efforts to targetf shiny new Pumas which are easy to do, whose owners can afford to pay me and are very grateful for the work I do? Well the people with very rusty vehicles are usually people like myself who work with their hands and are not rich. I consider myself the only person who can do such rusty vehicles. Most of them are very grateful, so no, I won't stop doing these vehicles. However, I am instituting a new system. I have commissioned a Content Management System with which I can take photos, before, during and after the process and these will be posted up on my website as a record of the job (so an owner of a very rusty car will no longer be able to claim, like Mr. Smih, once I've coated it that "it wasn't too bad") I will also be instituting an a) to e) classification system. Under this system, Mr. Smith's car would be d) "cars which are so rusty that they are very likely to need re-treatment under the guarantee". Owners of these cars will have to pay an extra £100 on the day of treatment and re-treatment under the guarantee will cost £200.

4. My terms and conditions state that if the owner is not satisfied for any reason,a) the vehicle has to be returned for rectification and b) no refunds are given under any circumstances. Does Mr. Smith not think that I would carry out any rectifications which he thinks are necessary? Why does he not want to bring the vehicle back for rectification? He complains about the long distance and the fuel cost and it is indeed a long way to come. 192 miles. But that is the price you have to pay if you have a really rusty vehicle that you want to save from the scrapyard. I am doing the car for free because it will need to come back for re-treatment at some stage, so I am taking my fair share of the pain.

I suggested to Mr. Smith that rectification is not urgent and can be done in the next year or two years or even three years and that he must surely travel south for some reason or other in this time and that he should just pressure wash the areas in question before coming so that I can spray the areas missed and he can be on his way again very quickly.

Finally, Mr. Smith brings up the question of my age. In fact, as some people know, I'm a health nut and consider myself to be much healthier than most 50 year olds apart from some hearing loss. So I don't see myself retiring for a while. I'm quite happy doing what I do. I have been giving 5 year and 10 year (if you count KLEENtect and now CR coating) for the past 17 years and no-one can complain that I have refused to do guarantee work during that time. Also, I can sell the business when I feel too decrepit to do the work anymore (that's a long way off as I see it) and it will be in the new owner's interest to honour my commitments.

By posting his diatribe and refusing to bring the vehicle back for rectification, Mr. Smith is in breach of contract so unless he contacts me very soon to arrange for rectification I shall withdraw the guarantee cover. The guarantee is transferable with ownership. If he then sells the car and tells the new owner there is a guarantee and the new owner contacts me for re-treatment, I will put him or her wise and suggest that they sue Mr. Smith for the cost of re-treatment.

Edit: I made a mistake about the year of manufacture of the vehicle based on a wrong interpretation of the registration plate so I have edited that out from the above.

Cheers Chris
Alright Chris, I was about to skip to page 3light years and ask when you came in. Page 1, right on the ball for a deaf old codger. Like the eye of sauron watching us. My rrc chassis still looking good, the rest of it has dropped to bits :oops:
 
I've been watching this thread for days. Sorry but I don't see the point if it any longer. If I could I would shoot it and put it out of it's misery. A lot of good minds are wasting processing power with all the toing and froing.
OP, either go to court or give it up.
Just sayin.
 
I've been watching this thread for days. Sorry but I don't see the point if it any longer. If I could I would shoot it and put it out of it's misery. A lot of good minds are wasting processing power with all the toing and froing.
OP, either go to court or give it up.
Just sayin.

Could be worse, you could be watching the MAF one.......................:eek::eek: That comes around once a year,..LOL

Cheers
 
easy way to sort this

A big apology , full refund with an extra £200 for inconvenience

we can then get back to the beers ;):D

simples
 
havent you been reading? No chance

silly me , i should have put ,

i’m smoking too much pot and am now half blind due to looking at my 1,000 watt light and why does the metal look all different shades

oooopppssss, i wonder if i’ve missed spot

i know, i will put my waxoil gun on the floor, tape the trigger on and drive over it slowly

that should do the job according to my 10 x year warranty

oh sod it, i just used it to wipe my arse on it

ah, knowone will notice my work, who looks under there car any way

wonder if the ones i washed earlier are dry yet:rolleyes:



40911DE7-C16C-41FA-8858-28AAE8EF9B3B.jpeg
 
silly me , i should have put ,

i’m smoking too much pot and am now half blind due to looking at my 1,000 watt light and why does the metal look all different shades

oooopppssss, i wonder if i’ve missed spot

i know, i will put my waxoil gun on the floor, tape the trigger on and drive over it slowly

that should do the job according to my 10 x year warranty

oh sod it, i just used it to wipe my arse on it

ah, knowone will notice my work, who looks under there car any way

wonder if the ones i washed earlier are dry yet:rolleyes:



View attachment 135947

The Picture is fine , they should all be hung like that. After all they a J**ps.................:D:D

Cheers
 
Could be worse, you could be watching the MAF one.......................:eek::eek: That comes around once a year,..LOL

Cheers

OK. Am a noob so I reckon I'll get this one for free. Has anybody just disconnected the MAF and see what difference it makes? I can be unenlightened, unedified and unentertained with much less effort on my part you know..:D
 
OK. Am a noob so I reckon I'll get this one for free. Has anybody just disconnected the MAF and see what difference it makes? I can be unenlightened, unedified and unentertained with much less effort on my part you know..:D

don’t forget there’s another option ;):D

getting shot for asking the MAF question, lol
 
can someone explain to me what the point is of waxoiling over rust? clean rust or not?

Waxoyl's advertising slogan has always been "kills existing rust and prevents further rust"
But this only really applies to fairly light rust if you are using diy techniques and then how long does it kill it for? Normally, on very heavy rust, you would be right. There would be no point. But I have found from experience that if the rust is blasted back enough and the coating is applied thick enough, then it will last and prevent the rust coming through again. At least for a time. And I found through experience that the time could be up to five years. So I started giving a five year guarantee. However, in that 5 year time frame, some rust does reappear on some cars and I have to re-treat. On really rusty cars I used to not give a guarantee but say: "Well I can't give a guarantee but it should last for at least three years and then it will need re-treating." But this caused difficulty because where is the cuf off point between giving a guarantee and not giving a guarantee? Some customers travelled a great distance and were very disappointed if I could not give the guarantee. Around 15 years ago I was actually threatened with being beaten up by 3 builders in my office and the money taken back when I said I couldn't give a guarantee after I'd treated their car (my adverts at the time made clear that I could not always give the guarantee). With improvement in the power of my pressure washer and other improvements, I found that often, the coating would last five years.

This would not be possible with a diy job of course. And most "garage" jobs are little better than diy. See Matt Ford here:
http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/mcwaxoyl/index.php?id=69
 
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But you do not say that, you say in your bumff, that you will save the car from the knackers yard, you stated that in the case of this hilux.

Even the Moroccan 90, you did not give a warranty on, but on that you could not be bothered to remove the diff guard, half a job.

Frankly , your videos are pretty useless. IMHO.

How with your 1000W light did you miss the areas on the photos from the Hilux? having a bad day? tired from your powerwalking? could not be bothered?

Cheers
I don't know how I missed the areas on the Hilux.
 
But you do not say that, you say in your bumff, that you will save the car from the knackers yard, you stated that in the case of this hilux.

Even the Moroccan 90, you did not give a warranty on, but on that you could not be bothered to remove the diff guard, half a job.

Frankly , your videos are pretty useless. IMHO.

How with your 1000W light did you miss the areas on the photos from the Hilux? having a bad day? tired from your powerwalking? could not be bothered?

Cheers
Apparently , the treatment was removed using a steamcleaner after the owner had picked it up.......

Cheers
I did not say that.

What I said was that a) it would be possible to set me up by removing some of the coating b) that there are a number of possible scenarios where someone might want to do that either because they don't want to pay or they want to damage my reputation and that is the reason that I don't give refunds under any circumstances and that if there are problems you have to bring the car back for rectification and that if you are not prepared to do that you should not proceed with your booking. That's fair enough isn't it?
Especially when I am prepared to do a really rusty car that no-one else would touch.
 
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