Timing belt change - anyone in Gloucestershire?

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Karls

Active Member
Posts
506
Location
Gloucestershire
Well, I've got the LR all stripped down to the chassis bar the bulkhead and this gives me excellent access to the front of the engine to change the timing belt. I've got all the parts I need from Turner Engineering but I haven't got one of these to undo the dog nut:
Land Rover 300Tdi, 200Tdi / Jaguar Crank Locking tool (LRT 12 080) (VS4985) | eBay

I'm not really keen on spending £60 for something I'm not going to use much more than once! So I'm looking to borrow one if I can from someone hopefully within the same County!

By the way, the gearbox is out, axles are off so I can't do the usual solutions. Any other ideas very welcome.

Willing to leave a good deposit to the borrowee or even willing to offer a suitable financial reward if they wish to show me how it's done! :biggrin1:
 
or the old classic breaker bar resting on chassis, discon fuel solenoid and blip the starter

also slogger tool or a gun

or screwdriver in flywheel

or knock the tool up.

tightening it is probably the real issue, got a gun? :)
 
or the old classic breaker bar resting on chassis, discon fuel solenoid and blip the starter

also slogger tool or a gun

or screwdriver in flywheel

or knock the tool up.

tightening it is probably the real issue, got a gun? :)

That's that I did - 30mm socket and a breaker bar rested on chassis - a quick flick on the key and it undid itself. Iv done this severel times and worked a treat!
 
Hmm...if only I had the wiring loom/s fitted :eek:

got jump leads?

neg to bat, other end to engine block.

pos to bat, other end to the starter pos stud. then you use a screwdriver to bridge the pos stud to the lil spade.

no need to spin it mad, just touch a few times.

and iirc isn't the 300tdi a 27mm socket?
 
or the old classic breaker bar resting on chassis, discon fuel solenoid and blip the starter

also slogger tool or a gun

or screwdriver in flywheel

or knock the tool up.

tightening it is probably the real issue, got a gun? :)

Yes, I've got a gun but only running off a 50L compressor (appx 117 psi). Man enough?
 
Yes, I've got a gun but only running off a 50L compressor (appx 117 psi). Man enough?

it's f f f tight on. 80nm then 90 degrees or stick something on and beat it down tight.

google also shows 270nm.

you can make a lil paint mark to see if it moves after it's on
 
got jump leads?

neg to bat, other end to engine block.

pos to bat, other end to the starter pos stud. then you use a screwdriver to bridge the pos stud to the lil spade.

no need to spin it mad, just touch a few times.

and iirc isn't the 300tdi a 27mm socket?

and make sure the fuel solenoid deffo doesn't have power! you don't wont to start the engine and have the nut and everything flinging off, just for a lil crank but not firing.
 
and make sure the fuel solenoid deffo doesn't have power! you don't wont to start the engine and have the nut and everything flinging off, just for a lil crank but not firing.

Thanks for the advice Trax. There's no electrics live anywhere (that's a whole new can of worms that one!) so no chance of any electrical related mishaps.
 
Try the impact gun first. Put about 5 to 10 drops of air tool oil down the air inlet of the gun, make sure the compressor tank is full and give it a shot with the Landy in first gear.

I was happy mine came out within a half second of the trigger pull, that's because I have a Snap On 750 ft/lbs reverse torque impact gun powered by an 80 gal compressor and tank at 135 psi regulated :D
 
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